Rear Axel Nut

pickles · 07-12-2014, 01:05 PM

So I got a flat tire. was having trouble with the axel nut over on the side with the muffler
the service manual says

"Remove the rear axle nut"

This has proven not to be as simple as seemed.
I used a 19mm wrench and a 17mm on the other side.
it WILL turn, but the other side does as well. I fear ive almost stripped them, they do have significant damage as well as the socket/wrench im using.

ive seen tutorials where people just use one 19mm wrench with a pipe for leverage.
Whats wrong here? I tried a torch, as well as locktite.
I suspect I need a differant tool, the suzuki one is 100 and its just a peice of metal
any help or anyone been through this?

I wish i would have just rode it to the dealership

will upload pictures soon.

thanks guys

pickles · 07-12-2014, 01:32 PM

and I tried to search, if a previous thread has been made id appreciate the link

so far ive heard

"more leverage"
"more liquid wrench"
"burn it with fire"

Water Warrior 2 · 07-12-2014, 03:37 PM

Oh the perils of rear axles can be a bit*h. First off and no disrespect.......are you sure you are actually trying to loosen the nut? You may be confused about which direction to go.
You just may need more applied force. It often happens that a previous owner has just tightened the rear axle nut far too much. When this happens the threads of the axle and nut can be damaged and will refuse to cooperate with each other smoothly. Been there done that.
Stray thought here. Does your bike have a cotter pin through the nut that you haven't noticed? Some do and some don't.
No matter how you look at it, it may be a situation of more power and well fitting tools to do the job. Once the axle is removed you must inspect both the axle and nut for damage to the threads.
With luck you will be able to screw them together with your fingers or a little help with hand tools. They should be relatively resistance free if there is no damage to the threads. Note........be sure to take a very close look at the position and of all/any spacers on the axle. There is a special sequence for the positioning to keep the wheel where it should be. The spacers are also there to prevent side loading of the bearings and destroying them. That could cause a rear wheel lock-up while in motion.........you don't want to go there. I narrowly missed that lock-up scenario when my bike started jerking and loudly clicking at 70 mph. I put the spacers in wrong, my bad. Slowly limped into town and had it repaired the next day. The shop tech reassembled the axle and spacer the same way he took them off. His bad, I fixed it.
Fast forward. Assuming the wheel is removed, the tire fixed or replaced, all parts are undamaged and useable. you will want a new cotter pin if needed and some Thread Ease for the threads of the axle. This is not an actual lube for the threads but it makes the threads play happy. Also, when you get all this done, we can help you with reassembly and the chain ajusted during reassmbly. It is really quite easy with proper hand tools and the members here to help you through the procedure.

pickles · 07-13-2014, 03:11 AM

looking at the threads I notice it would have to be turned clockwise to be tightened, so i am applying force in a counter clock wise motion when the bike is facing the right.
Im using a 19mm wrench with a 2 foot pole for leverage. the other end will spin when i manage to apply force that seems to be damaging the nut itself.
I plan on getting a new one due to the damage already, and I have removed ONE cotter pin from the nut, and cant see anything else in there.
I appreciate the feedback, and will keep trying

pickles · 07-13-2014, 01:34 PM

SOLUTION FOUND

"better fitting tools"
My 17mm socket had been stripped already, and wouldnt give me a good bite on the bolt end.

I went and got some PB blaster and a 17mm wrench. i gave it one big pull with a 4 foot extension bar used for my jack, and it worked!

If havign a problem with rear axel nut, more than likly its the thread/nut
so even though i read it a million times

PB BLASTER -> BETTER FITTING TOOLS -> "MORE POWER!"

thanks guys, now that ive had a chance to check out the sprockets and rear brake, i think I just made more work for myself

Happy riding

Water Warrior 2 · 07-13-2014, 06:20 PM

WOW !! A 4 foot extension is a lot of extension. That was far too tight for any bike. Yup, best you get that new axle, nut and washers to fit. The metal itself will be stressed and the threads have suffered terrible abuse. Also give a real close inspection of all the spacers and other fittings. They might have been damaged a bit. I just can't imagine tightening an axle so much.

There is an upside to this though. You have experince of what not to do and the consequences. Glad you were able to get the job done. Carry on.

**jonathan180iq** · 07-14-2014, 09:23 AM

Get a torque wrench and a service manual - someone put that on too tight before.
Also, nice work on getting it done DIY style. There's nothing better.

And, seriously, what problem isn't solved with better fitting tools and more power?

07-12-2014, 01:05 PM	#1
pickles Junior Member Join Date: Jul 2014 Posts: 5	Rear Axel Nut So I got a flat tire. was having trouble with the axel nut over on the side with the muffler the service manual says "Remove the rear axle nut" This has proven not to be as simple as seemed. I used a 19mm wrench and a 17mm on the other side. it WILL turn, but the other side does as well. I fear ive almost stripped them, they do have significant damage as well as the socket/wrench im using. ive seen tutorials where people just use one 19mm wrench with a pipe for leverage. Whats wrong here? I tried a torch, as well as locktite. I suspect I need a differant tool, the suzuki one is 100 and its just a peice of metal any help or anyone been through this? I wish i would have just rode it to the dealership will upload pictures soon. thanks guys Login or Register to Remove Ads
	0

07-12-2014, 03:37 PM	#3
Water Warrior 2 Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Squamish B.C Canada Posts: 11,409	Oh the perils of rear axles can be a bit*h. First off and no disrespect.......are you sure you are actually trying to loosen the nut? You may be confused about which direction to go. You just may need more applied force. It often happens that a previous owner has just tightened the rear axle nut far too much. When this happens the threads of the axle and nut can be damaged and will refuse to cooperate with each other smoothly. Been there done that. Stray thought here. Does your bike have a cotter pin through the nut that you haven't noticed? Some do and some don't. No matter how you look at it, it may be a situation of more power and well fitting tools to do the job. Once the axle is removed you must inspect both the axle and nut for damage to the threads. With luck you will be able to screw them together with your fingers or a little help with hand tools. They should be relatively resistance free if there is no damage to the threads. Note........be sure to take a very close look at the position and of all/any spacers on the axle. There is a special sequence for the positioning to keep the wheel where it should be. The spacers are also there to prevent side loading of the bearings and destroying them. That could cause a rear wheel lock-up while in motion.........you don't want to go there. I narrowly missed that lock-up scenario when my bike started jerking and loudly clicking at 70 mph. I put the spacers in wrong, my bad. Slowly limped into town and had it repaired the next day. The shop tech reassembled the axle and spacer the same way he took them off. His bad, I fixed it. Fast forward. Assuming the wheel is removed, the tire fixed or replaced, all parts are undamaged and useable. you will want a new cotter pin if needed and some Thread Ease for the threads of the axle. This is not an actual lube for the threads but it makes the threads play happy. Also, when you get all this done, we can help you with reassembly and the chain ajusted during reassmbly. It is really quite easy with proper hand tools and the members here to help you through the procedure. Login or Register to Remove Ads
	0

07-13-2014, 01:34 PM	#5
pickles Junior Member Join Date: Jul 2014 Posts: 5	SOLUTION FOUND "better fitting tools" My 17mm socket had been stripped already, and wouldnt give me a good bite on the bolt end. I went and got some PB blaster and a 17mm wrench. i gave it one big pull with a 4 foot extension bar used for my jack, and it worked! If havign a problem with rear axel nut, more than likly its the thread/nut so even though i read it a million times PB BLASTER -> BETTER FITTING TOOLS -> "MORE POWER!" thanks guys, now that ive had a chance to check out the sprockets and rear brake, i think I just made more work for myself Happy riding Login or Register to Remove Ads
	0

07-12-2014, 01:32 PM	#2
pickles Junior Member Join Date: Jul 2014 Posts: 5	and I tried to search, if a previous thread has been made id appreciate the link so far ive heard "more leverage" "more liquid wrench" "burn it with fire"
	0

07-13-2014, 03:11 AM	#4
pickles Junior Member Join Date: Jul 2014 Posts: 5	looking at the threads I notice it would have to be turned clockwise to be tightened, so i am applying force in a counter clock wise motion when the bike is facing the right. Im using a 19mm wrench with a 2 foot pole for leverage. the other end will spin when i manage to apply force that seems to be damaging the nut itself. I plan on getting a new one due to the damage already, and I have removed ONE cotter pin from the nut, and cant see anything else in there. I appreciate the feedback, and will keep trying
	0

07-13-2014, 06:20 PM	#6
Water Warrior 2 Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Squamish B.C Canada Posts: 11,409	WOW !! A 4 foot extension is a lot of extension. That was far too tight for any bike. Yup, best you get that new axle, nut and washers to fit. The metal itself will be stressed and the threads have suffered terrible abuse. Also give a real close inspection of all the spacers and other fittings. They might have been damaged a bit. I just can't imagine tightening an axle so much. There is an upside to this though. You have experince of what not to do and the consequences. Glad you were able to get the job done. Carry on.
	0

07-14-2014, 09:23 AM	#7
jonathan180iq Super Moderator Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Dalton, GA Posts: 3,996	Get a torque wrench and a service manual - someone put that on too tight before. Also, nice work on getting it done DIY style. There's nothing better. And, seriously, what problem isn't solved with better fitting tools and more power?
	0