The Rundown-by Craig

Astiryu1 · 03-20-2013, 12:37 PM

I bought the bike (2001 GZ250) used from a Harley Dealer. It was a trade in. It had just over 9,000 miles on it and had no real wear and tear to speak of save for a missing mirror. I got her home and started riding immediately

As I got more and more confident in the tests I went further until I felt confident enough to go to school. A 30 mile ride one way and it dies halfway there for the first time. I get to school and call my parents to pick it up for me. Not the best part of Ft. Myers

I get home charge the battery and it happens a few more times. So I buy a maintainer and a new (cheap) battery and it still does it. Looked up the problems and it sounds like it is the stator. I change it and buy a new (expensive) battery with my friend (also riding buddy) that works on bikes. Seems fine for a week then I go out to a friends house that is about the same distance to school and it dies on the way back at night in the middle of nowhere. Make call friend picks the bike and I up and that is the present situation. After changing the stator the bike actually has enough juice to start again on it's own but won't stay on. I think it is the electric rectifier/regulator. Other than that she rides better than my old bike and I don't have oily pant legs

Rookie Rider · 03-21-2013, 02:50 AM

Welcome aboard, is the petcock filter clean and not clogged ?

Astiryu1 · 03-21-2013, 11:51 AM

i can check that but it really seems to be an electrical issue. Thanks for the advice

**jonathan180iq** · 03-21-2013, 01:52 PM

So you've done the usual stuff, like testing voltage across the terminals both at rest, at idle and running to make sure the stator is doing it's job?

You should be able to test current into and out of the rectifier.
I looked at the wiring diagram a while ago and had a pretty good handle on what symptoms would be caused by one going bad, but to be honest, it's been so long that I'm not fresh on it.

AlanTF is the resident electrical expert and he may chime in here soon.

Do a search for "rectifier" or "regulator" and search by Alan's name. There was someone with a similar issue (maybe 1 year ago, more or less) and Alan and I got into a conversation brainstorming how the thing worked. If you can find that thread, I'm pretty sure we can at least eliminate some variables.

EDIT: After reading that old thread and checking Alan's diagram, all you need to do is test voltage across the terminals with the bike revved up to see if the rectifier is doing it's job. It looks like it either lets juice flow through it or it doesn't. If you are geting 12.7+ volts acorss the terminals, then the rectifier is good. It sounds like beating a dead horse on this forum, but new batteries need to be charged before they are installed on these bikes and a new battery doesn't always mean a good battery.

**jonathan180iq** · 03-21-2013, 01:57 PM

Well, that was easier than I thought:

viewtopic.php?f=10&t=5954&p=65119&hilit=rectifier# p65119

mrlmd1 · 03-21-2013, 08:07 PM

How long ago did you get that bike from the dealer? Did you ever think of calling him up and discussing the problem with him and see if he will help you?
It's unlikely the stator or the rectifier went bad. Unless you start to test and diagnose the problem you will be replacing parts shotgun style until accidentally you may solve the problem.
Did you charge either of the new batteries before you started to use them? Both batteries you got are probably an AGM type and regardless what the dealer said, YOU must put it on a charger and fully charge it up before first use or after a few starts of the bike, it may fail, it will never hold a full charge. The battery is much more likely to be your problem than the stator or rectifier is. And to see if that stuff is working, all you have to do is measure the battery voltage at the battery terminals with a voltmeter, available for a few dollars, instead of whatever you spent so far and are intending to waste in the near future. If you get a reading of 13.5-14.5 V with the engine revved up to at least 2500-3500 rpm, your charging system is working properly and that is not the problem.
So, measure your battery voltage at rest before you start the bike - 12.6-12.8V is a fully charged battery. And then measure it with the bike revved up.
There is no significant current output from the charging system at idle, so don't waste your time trying to charge a battery that way - the best way is to ride the bike for a half hour at least.
Let us know what the battery voltage is at rest and revved up, then we can go from there. Don't buy any more new parts until that is done.
There are many other reasons why your bike could crap out, but let's start with the battery.

alantf · 03-22-2013, 06:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mrlmd1

How long ago did you get that bike from the dealer? Did you ever think of calling him up and discussing the problem with him and see if he will help you?
It's unlikely the stator or the rectifier went bad. Unless you start to test and diagnose the problem you will be replacing parts shotgun style until accidentally you may solve the problem.
Did you charge either of the new batteries before you started to use them? Both batteries you got are probably an AGM type and regardless what the dealer said, YOU must put it on a charger and fully charge it up before first use or after a few starts of the bike, it may fail, it will never hold a full charge. The battery is much more likely to be your problem than the stator or rectifier is. And to see if that stuff is working, all you have to do is measure the battery voltage at the battery terminals with a voltmeter, available for a few dollars, instead of whatever you spent so far and are intending to waste in the near future. If you get a reading of 13.5-14.5 V with the engine revved up to at least 2500-3500 rpm, your charging system is working properly and that is not the problem.
So, measure your battery voltage at rest before you start the bike - 12.6-12.8V is a fully charged battery. And then measure it with the bike revved up.
There is no significant current output from the charging system at idle, so don't waste your time trying to charge a battery that way - the best way is to ride the bike for a half hour at least.
Let us know what the battery voltage is at rest and revved up, then we can go from there. Don't buy any more new parts until that is done.
There are many other reasons why your bike could crap out, but let's start with the battery.

:plus1:

Step by step is the ONLY way to go. Start with the easiest/most likely (i.e. battery) and let us know the test results at EACH step, so we can work out the next step. We're here to help you, but you've gotta help us by doing the tests that we ask you.

Astiryu1 · 05-14-2013, 08:44 PM

Sorry I haven't been on for awhile I have been riding

The problem is I got it used from a Harley Dealer where it was a trade in. They "say" that they never even checked it out since it was rode in and worked fine for the week they had it until I bought it "as is". I totally started with the easiest parts first I have put in 3 batteries the final one being a Yuasa instead of an Advanced Auto cheapo then a (rebuilt) stator. Most of the issues are fixed except for the new round. After going about 50 miles it loses it's charge and won't start with the key. I can pop the clutch but only so many times. When I engage the clutch it shuts off (initiating another momentum powered clutch pop

) I have done this twice so far but I charge it every time it goes bad like that. I do have a battery maintainer/charger for motorcycles and a volt meter that has seen it use lately.

Astiryu1 · 05-14-2013, 08:47 PM

I will work on the tests tomorrow at my friend's place most likely. I unfortunately have no tachometer though so the rpms will be guesswork. I have been wanting to get both a tach and a voltmeter rigged up by the speedometer since I got the bike. Maybe now is the time

PimpS · 05-15-2013, 02:52 AM

Hello!

In my case it was rectifier, after it was changed with a new one, GZ worked normal. In my case was that, when bike wnet dead, the battery was emptied too. Astiryu, if i understand correctly, you have already changed the battery 3 times, isn't there any insurance from a shop you bought the bike? Any way; i hope you'll get the GZ started and riding the hell out of it... Good luck!

PimpS

03-20-2013, 12:37 PM	#1
Astiryu1 Junior Member Join Date: Mar 2013 Location: Punta Gorda, Fl Posts: 15	The Rundown-by Craig I bought the bike (2001 GZ250) used from a Harley Dealer. It was a trade in. It had just over 9,000 miles on it and had no real wear and tear to speak of save for a missing mirror. I got her home and started riding immediately As I got more and more confident in the tests I went further until I felt confident enough to go to school. A 30 mile ride one way and it dies halfway there for the first time. I get to school and call my parents to pick it up for me. Not the best part of Ft. Myers I get home charge the battery and it happens a few more times. So I buy a maintainer and a new (cheap) battery and it still does it. Looked up the problems and it sounds like it is the stator. I change it and buy a new (expensive) battery with my friend (also riding buddy) that works on bikes. Seems fine for a week then I go out to a friends house that is about the same distance to school and it dies on the way back at night in the middle of nowhere. Make call friend picks the bike and I up and that is the present situation. After changing the stator the bike actually has enough juice to start again on it's own but won't stay on. I think it is the electric rectifier/regulator. Other than that she rides better than my old bike and I don't have oily pant legs Login or Register to Remove Ads
	0

03-21-2013, 02:50 AM	#2
Rookie Rider Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Queens, NYC Posts: 1,263	Re: The Rundown-by Craig Welcome aboard, is the petcock filter clean and not clogged ?
	0

03-21-2013, 11:51 AM	#3
Astiryu1 Junior Member Join Date: Mar 2013 Location: Punta Gorda, Fl Posts: 15	Re: The Rundown-by Craig i can check that but it really seems to be an electrical issue. Thanks for the advice Login or Register to Remove Ads
	0

03-21-2013, 01:52 PM	#4
jonathan180iq Super Moderator Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Dalton, GA Posts: 3,995	Re: The Rundown-by Craig So you've done the usual stuff, like testing voltage across the terminals both at rest, at idle and running to make sure the stator is doing it's job? You should be able to test current into and out of the rectifier. I looked at the wiring diagram a while ago and had a pretty good handle on what symptoms would be caused by one going bad, but to be honest, it's been so long that I'm not fresh on it. AlanTF is the resident electrical expert and he may chime in here soon. Do a search for "rectifier" or "regulator" and search by Alan's name. There was someone with a similar issue (maybe 1 year ago, more or less) and Alan and I got into a conversation brainstorming how the thing worked. If you can find that thread, I'm pretty sure we can at least eliminate some variables. EDIT: After reading that old thread and checking Alan's diagram, all you need to do is test voltage across the terminals with the bike revved up to see if the rectifier is doing it's job. It looks like it either lets juice flow through it or it doesn't. If you are geting 12.7+ volts acorss the terminals, then the rectifier is good. It sounds like beating a dead horse on this forum, but new batteries need to be charged before they are installed on these bikes and a new battery doesn't always mean a good battery.
	0

03-21-2013, 01:57 PM	#5
jonathan180iq Super Moderator Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Dalton, GA Posts: 3,995	Re: The Rundown-by Craig Well, that was easier than I thought: viewtopic.php?f=10&t=5954&p=65119&hilit=rectifier# p65119 Login or Register to Remove Ads
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03-21-2013, 08:07 PM	#6
mrlmd1 Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Crawfordville, Florida Posts: 2,853	Re: The Rundown-by Craig How long ago did you get that bike from the dealer? Did you ever think of calling him up and discussing the problem with him and see if he will help you? It's unlikely the stator or the rectifier went bad. Unless you start to test and diagnose the problem you will be replacing parts shotgun style until accidentally you may solve the problem. Did you charge either of the new batteries before you started to use them? Both batteries you got are probably an AGM type and regardless what the dealer said, YOU must put it on a charger and fully charge it up before first use or after a few starts of the bike, it may fail, it will never hold a full charge. The battery is much more likely to be your problem than the stator or rectifier is. And to see if that stuff is working, all you have to do is measure the battery voltage at the battery terminals with a voltmeter, available for a few dollars, instead of whatever you spent so far and are intending to waste in the near future. If you get a reading of 13.5-14.5 V with the engine revved up to at least 2500-3500 rpm, your charging system is working properly and that is not the problem. So, measure your battery voltage at rest before you start the bike - 12.6-12.8V is a fully charged battery. And then measure it with the bike revved up. There is no significant current output from the charging system at idle, so don't waste your time trying to charge a battery that way - the best way is to ride the bike for a half hour at least. Let us know what the battery voltage is at rest and revved up, then we can go from there. Don't buy any more new parts until that is done. There are many other reasons why your bike could crap out, but let's start with the battery.
	0

05-14-2013, 08:44 PM	#8
Astiryu1 Junior Member Join Date: Mar 2013 Location: Punta Gorda, Fl Posts: 15	Re: The Rundown-by Craig Sorry I haven't been on for awhile I have been riding The problem is I got it used from a Harley Dealer where it was a trade in. They "say" that they never even checked it out since it was rode in and worked fine for the week they had it until I bought it "as is". I totally started with the easiest parts first I have put in 3 batteries the final one being a Yuasa instead of an Advanced Auto cheapo then a (rebuilt) stator. Most of the issues are fixed except for the new round. After going about 50 miles it loses it's charge and won't start with the key. I can pop the clutch but only so many times. When I engage the clutch it shuts off (initiating another momentum powered clutch pop ) I have done this twice so far but I charge it every time it goes bad like that. I do have a battery maintainer/charger for motorcycles and a volt meter that has seen it use lately.
	0

05-14-2013, 08:47 PM	#9
Astiryu1 Junior Member Join Date: Mar 2013 Location: Punta Gorda, Fl Posts: 15	Re: The Rundown-by Craig I will work on the tests tomorrow at my friend's place most likely. I unfortunately have no tachometer though so the rpms will be guesswork. I have been wanting to get both a tach and a voltmeter rigged up by the speedometer since I got the bike. Maybe now is the time
	0

05-15-2013, 02:52 AM	#10
PimpS Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Slovenija Posts: 475	Re: The Rundown-by Craig Hello! In my case it was rectifier, after it was changed with a new one, GZ worked normal. In my case was that, when bike wnet dead, the battery was emptied too. Astiryu, if i understand correctly, you have already changed the battery 3 times, isn't there any insurance from a shop you bought the bike? Any way; i hope you'll get the GZ started and riding the hell out of it... Good luck! PimpS
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