Bear with me...

[GZ Jess]

I have a little mechanical knowledge but not much so bear with me while I try to explain my issues here.

I just bought a 2004 GZ250 with 830 miles. It appears to be well taken care of.

I understand that when you start a cold bike you need to pull out the choke. This bike has issues starting. The starter sounds strong and battery appears strong. Some times it will turn over a couple of times and stall out and others times it won't start at all. Once I do get it running for a few minutes and turn it off, it will start right back up no issues.

I did find a screw that seems to adjust the idle and that is how I get it started. When I get it started and running if I move the choke lever it stalls out whether it has been running or not. I thought originally that if I could get the bike warmed up enough I could put the idle screw where it needed to be to run smooth warm and then be able to just open the choke to start then close as it warms. But if the choke is moved it doesn't up the RPMs like I think it's suppose to and it just stalls the bike out!

I'm stumped now. Any ideas?

Thanks, Jess

[alantf]

I suppose you DO know that the GZ is supposed to idle at 1200 - 1400 rev/min? The "screw" you "found" (if it's the one with the big white knob) is not meant to be used as a starting aid, but used to set the idle when the engine is HOT.

Right - get the engine running by whatever means you can, then let it get really HOT (go for a ¼ hour ride, not just let it get hot while it stands)
Get the choke off as soon as you can, & if it stalls, screw up the white knob a little, until it's running. When it's nice & hot (& ONLY when it's nice & hot!) adjust the white knob until the bike sounds as though it's doing 1200 to 1400 revs. This is your starting point. On subsequent days, when the bike is HOT, you can tweak the knob SLIGHTLY until you get it running to your liking.

A lot of idle problems seem to be caused because people think that a bike idle should be as slow as a car. :2tup:

[GZ250]

good reply and i agree with alantf. starting even during summer mornings you will need choke. either half or full choke start the bike and decrease as needed. for GZ the battery should always be strong to get a good crank otherwise in 4-5 tries the battery drains so keep a battery tender handy.

as suggested earlier adjust idle when the bike is real HOT. i cannot measure the revs as i do not have any tool for that but i personally keep it to minimum as it gives me more smooth ride and gear shifting (its just personal).

i can't say for other bikes but if GZ is cold it will stall and ride is not smooth. only when the engine is real warm it runs great.

[Easy Rider]

Originally Posted by GZ Jess

Once I do get it running for a few minutes and turn it off, it will start right back up no issues.

But if the choke is moved it doesn't up the RPMs like I think it's suppose to and it just stalls the bike out!

Welcome; hope we can help you out.
It sounds like several things might be going on here.

The choke is NOT an all or nothing device and needs to be changed a little at a time; not all on or all off. My GZ started best with about 3/4 choke; do NOT open the throttle until after it starts, that messes up the choke action. Then when it does start, you need to keep the choke partly ON for a while until it warms up.

Having said all that, if slowly moving the choke while it's running does NOT increase the engine speed any and eventually makes it die, then your choke linkage may not be working right.

AND regardless of what else might be wrong, you need fresh gas and some good carb cleaner for a tank full or two. I like Berrymans B12 Chemtool. If you drain the gas, drain the float bowl too.

While we would LOVE to help you find a solution to your problem, sometimes there is a "failure to communicate" and it might be best to visit a dealer or find another experienced rider to show the problem to. There should be some good clues available even when the bike is hot and running good.

Have you checked the air filter yet ??

[GZ Jess]

Thank you everyone, I have not checked the air filter which I should do ASAP (thank you for the reminder) and carb cleaner is another excellent idea! However, I do think that there may be an issue with the choke linkage, as was suggested, because it doesn't seem to do what other bikes do when the choke is adjusted. Even when the bike is hot and running nice and smooth, if you adjust the choke just to see what will happen it stalls the bike out.

Thank you all very much, I am glad I found you all!

[blaine]

Originally Posted by GZ Jess

Thank you everyone, I have not checked the air filter which I should do ASAP (thank you for the reminder) and carb cleaner is another excellent idea! However, I do think that there may be an issue with the choke linkage, as was suggested, because it doesn't seem to do what other bikes do when the choke is adjusted. Even when the bike is hot and running nice and smooth, if you adjust the choke just to see what will happen it stalls the bike out.

Thank you all very much, I am glad I found you all!

Hi,Welcome.If choke stalls the bike when it warm than it is working.

[Water Warrior 2]

About the air filter. Be sure to look at the inside of the filter. It is opposite air flow to what is the norm so crap collects inside and not on the expected outside surface.

[Easy Rider]

Originally Posted by blaine

If choke stalls the bike when it warm than it is working.

Not necessarily.

Most bike's I've had will increase the idle speed enough that it keeps running even with the "choke" completely operated. This is with modern engines with an "enricher" instead of a "real" choke.

If it doesn't increase the idle speed at all and then it dies before the choke is fully operated, then something is definitely wrong, probably with the fast idle cam.

[Water Warrior 2]

Originally Posted by Easy Rider

Not necessarily.

Most bike's I've had will increase the idle speed enough that it keeps running even with the "choke" completely operated. This is with modern engines with an "enricher" instead of a "real" choke.

If it doesn't increase the idle speed at all and then it dies before the choke is fully operated, then something is definitely wrong, probably with the fast idle cam.

Whoa Easy. That may be true in general and almost a rule of thumb but Lynda's bike ran it's own rules and we never had a problem with it. After partially warming up a little more choke to increase the idle would KILL it dead with a terrible mechanical last gasp. The fast idle worked and only the actual idle was ever adjusted after we got it. Maybe that is what Suzuki intended.

[blaine]

Originally Posted by Easy Rider

Not necessarily.

Most bike's I've had will increase the idle speed enough that it keeps running even with the "choke" completely operated. This is with modern engines with an "enricher" instead of a "real" choke.

If it doesn't increase the idle speed at all and then it dies before the choke is fully operated, then something is definitely wrong, probably with the fast idle cam.

There is no fast idle cam on the G.Z.The "enricher" when closed richens the mixture by letting in more fuel,therefore speeding up idle.When my bike was stock it would act as you stated because of lean condition.When I done all three carb mods it takes much less choke to start the bike when cold.When warm the "enricher" will increase idle,and stall bike out because of richer mixture.