Weird stalling and starter whine!

[Jordan310]

Maybe someone can help me out.
With the new mods, it seems that the bike takes a very long time to warm up. I use the choke for about a min untill the revs die off, and then slowly move it to the normal position. Once it starts dropping RPM's, .. it dies. If you start it up, .. it MAY hold idle, but most likely will die untill nice and hot. Keep in mind, .. I live in California, so its not that cold.

Once it does get running, it runs hot.

Sometimes, even after warmed up, .. at a light, .. when coming to a stop it will stall, and make a WHINENNNNNNNNEE sound when doing so.
Sort of like the sound that the starter makes when you press it when the bike is already running.

Weird. HELP!.
This cant be good, and Id feel a lot safer without this prob. anyone?

Jordanzuniga@gmail.com

[Dupo]

Have you pulled your plugs lately and checked them out? Maybe you are running it too hot, hence the constant stalling. Plugs might be fouled out too. If the plugs are black and sooty, too rich. If the plugs are tannish in color, too lean. ANytime after doing a mod like that you should check your plugs so they can tell you whats going on.

As for the noise ... hmmm. hard to say. this sound .. is it like the whine of the starter gear spinning freely or how you described as if u start while its running (that screetching sound). The 1st problem could be causing this problem. Running hot is not a good thing.

[Badbob]

Spark plugs should be checked every 3000 miles and replaced every 6000 miles as per the service manual. It's a one cylinder engine. If it misfires a low rpm it will stop.

Make sure the RPM is correct. If its two low a misfire will stall you engine.

Cold is not temperature. Normal operating temperature for a GZ250 engine will burn your your hand. It needs a bit of choke to idle good until the engine reaches normal operating temperature. Use full choke to start. Wait a few seconds until the engine speed settles down. Back off the chock slowly until idle speed is normal and let it warm up. When th engine gets hot enough the idle speed will go back up. Back the choke completely off now and it should be ready to ride. The time this takes can vary considerably with temperature. I start the bike before I gear up and on all except the coldest days it's ready to ride by the time I get ready.

Warming up a single cylinder engine is more critical than for multi cylinder engines. If you don't warm it up and it stalls while you are slowly turning out of your driveway the bike will fall.

[Jordan310]

Yea,

Thats the thing.
Its too warm here for it to be doing that, and it takes about 3 mins just to get it warmed up to when when backing off the choke, it will hold idle.

Ive found that Ive had to adjust the white idle knob to run it at high RPMS to get it to keep running consistantly at stops.
Hmm .. gonna have ta take the bike in.'

I should add though, that even after bringing the bike off the expressway doing about 65-70, and riding for an hour straight, it sometimes does the same thing.
Im guessing the bike should be nice and warm by then.

Gonna check the spark plugs. Wouldnt know either way how to fix them, but hey.
I know suzuki makes plugs for the GZ that are used when they run hot, or too cold. Does anyone know anything about this?
As well, do I have to adjust the new plugs in any way when installing new ones?

[Dupo]

Just have to gap them with a gap tool. Ask for one when/if you get new plugs. They are like a dollar or two depending which one you get. They might even gap it for you if you ask.

This is why i am a firm believer now, that any carb/jet/muffler mods should be done then have the mixture/jetting set by a pro lol. I had the same thing happen after i did my muffler mod. I got it pretty good, but it was still having the problems you describe. Better off taking it in and having someone look at it. They might be able to get it setup a little better.

[Jordan310]

Hey,

One other thing..

I am thinking of swapping the muffler to a packable fiberglass kind, and i took a look here: http://www.650central.com/mufflers.htm

And it would seem that they do have mufflers with adaptors for 1 1/2 inches.
I was reading on here how someone was saying to weld a piece of galvanized pipe (etc ...), but is this really needed?
Take a look.

[Dupo]

Yea that was me. No one makes aftermarket mufflers to fit the gz pipe diameter. 1 1/2" without a reducer wont fit. Thats why something needs to be welded to the gz pipe to make it bigger so that a 1 3/8" (with reducers) muffler will fit on.

[Jordan310]

Rediculous, but I guess so.
So just weld a 1 1/3rd inch pipe to the cut off portion, and then slip it on eh?
Dont see much of a performance advantage, unless you go completely straight pipe style, but then some serrious tuning and card boring would have to take place after right?

I mean, louder? Ok, but wouldnt you get a few more horses WITHOUT the baffle? I understand backpressure and all that, but whats the general concensus.

BTW, I manages to fix my problem. I was idling about 1100rpms. Way too low.
I had a mechanic take a look for it for free, and he was like.. ahh.. and turned it up to about 1400 rpms at idle.
Starts right up now, dont need to even use the choke in the cold at night, and runs better. I also replaced the spark plug with a shiny new one. Runs great now.

I am currious as to what would happen if I used a splitfire type plug on the bike, and if I put a K&N extenting outward like a ram air effect on the carb. I know the carb needs adjustment now a bit, but I wonder. Too turbulant an airflow?

Ill be relocating to Miami, and its hotm and humid there. Taking a look at the spark plug, it looked perfect. a slight white/grey chaulky build up, but nothing more. Not black, and running a tiny bit lean, but I also suspect that it just needs a custom jet kit. I have these available for about $80.00 if anyone wants one. A performance shop has agreed to make one for me, and I can get more.

Im going to put on a good pipe, a K&N, and then rejet once more.
ANY suggestions as to the size of the K&N, cone, or ... and what pipe might work best as far as performance?

Thanks guys.

[Badbob]

I run the same plug year round. Temperatures range from the mid 20s to over 100 degrees. We get large temperature swings in the winter and it's not uncommon in winter for me to adjust the idle speed sitting at a traffic light. I'm pretty sure thats why there is a knob on it.

As much as I hate to say this. If you want more performance your money would be better spent on a different bike.

[Dupo]

Originally Posted by Badbob

As much as I hate to say this. If you want more performance your money would be better spent on a different bike.

I was just about to post that myself.

Its a 250cc bike, it is what it is. You can do many performance mods to the bike, but its still a 250cc bike. 20hp isnt much and adding another 5hp in mods, still isnt much. Seems like you are wanting to give this bike a boost and its just not going to happen. This coming from a person who has a bike with a hypercharger on it that gives the bike a 8% overall increase in power at a cost of about $300 lol, so dont take what i say too seriously.

But as for the pipe deal, you need to weld a piece on there yes, no way around it. And all its going to do is give you a louder bike. A little increase yes, but not that much. That mod is more on the sound side than it is the performance side.

I dont know, maybe its time to start wheelin and dealin for that M50 :cool: