oil change

Hi,

I've been a lurker for a couple of months, which is how long I've owned my 2003 gz250. I'm new to motorcycles generally and this bike specifically, so thanks to everyone for sharing your knowledge and to Dupo and whoever else is involved in maintaining this site. Your advice has or will save people money, time, headaches, bodily harm, and yes, even potentially their lives.

Here's my question: I've seen the threads on whether or not it's a good idea to crank up your bike and let it run now and again over the winter (for those of us who can't ride all year). But will it hurt for me to run it for 10 minutes so I can change the oil? I rode my bike as recently as Dec. 13, but now it's too damn cold and snowy here in Michigan. I'm sure I'll winterize it earlier next year, but all I've done so far is fill up the tank and add Sta-bil. I also have it hooked up to a trickle charger.

I know I'm a newb, but I'll go with Easy Rider's advice on winterizing in general. It's ridiculous what some of the "experts" say you should do to winterize your bike - but I do want to at least change the oil and lube the chain before I put her to rest for the winter . Can I let it idle for 10 minutes to heat up the oil before I change it, or will even that add moisture that could cause problems?

Thanks,

Keith

[Water Warrior 2]

Let me be the first to say welcome Keith. Always glad to have a new member. As for your question..........Go with the oil change. Let the bike idle long enough to warm up the cooling fins on the engine which should be sufficient to warm the oil a bit. I would rather see new oil in a stored bike for the winter instead of dirty contaminated oil doing it's worst to the internal parts. Hopefully you will do the filter too. Run it for a couple minutes to circulate the fresh oil and put your baby back to bed till spring.

[Easy Rider]

Originally Posted by Water Warrior

Let the bike idle long enough to warm up the cooling fins on the engine which should be sufficient to warm the oil a bit.

Welcome!

I'd say you are a little bit late; the high here yesterday was +3F.

I think you will be OK either way.
If you do decide to change it, run it long enough that it gets to the HOT side of warm then let it sit a minute or two before you drain. A couple of slight rev's to the engine will help clear moisture from the muffler.

OTOH.....

Chemical reactions progress much slower when it is COLD. Unless you were overdue for a change AND you have it stored in a heated space, I don't think there is any real worry with letting it go.......until you can spend that ~10 minute warm-up period with an actual ride.

Easy,

Not overdue for an oil change whatsoever - in fact oil still looks pretty darn clean, but I want to do it right (even though I waited too long - live and learn, I guess). And the bike is stored in my unheated garage, so it's good to know that I can wait until this weather breaks to take it for a quick ride before I change the oil and lube the chain.

BTW, it was interesting for me to read your comments on a different thread about how putting oil in the cylinders was a holdover from the kick start days. A good example of how you guys with years of experience and know-how educate the novices.

Thanks again,

Keith

[Easy Rider]

Originally Posted by kmkindred

Not overdue for an oil change whatsoever - in fact oil still looks pretty darn clean, but I want to do it right .............

OK, you seem like a pretty logical fellow so let's approach this with some simple logic.

The whole thing about insisting on having FRESH oil in the crankcase during a 3-4 month storage period never made much sense to me. Agreed that it shouldn't be DIRTY oil but it seems to me that anything less than 1/2 the recommended change interval IS pretty much fresh oil. One wouldn't worry about having oil that age in the bike if you ride it once in a while over a 4 month period. I can't see what the difference really is. :??:

In addition, during storage the oil is ...where? In the bottom of the crankcase. There is a light film on the upper parts but most of it is in contact with .......only the PAN. Do I worry about contaminated oil eating a hole in the pan? Take a guess. :biggrin:

And finally, from personal experience:
I have a John Deere riding mower that is probably about 15 years old now. In the summer, it mows about 7 acres of grass once a week. That is a LOT of mowing. My wild guess on the equivalent number of highway miles is about 150,000. I have NEVER changed the oil in the fall. I use synthetic in it but still it's due (or over due) for a change at storage time. Instead, I change it after the first use in the spring. It is on it's third set of tires, a couple of deck bearings, several sets of blades, some cracked and welded frame members, a stripped starter clutch.............BUT.........the engine is still going strong, with no sigh of excessive oil useage (add a couple of Oz sometime mid-season) and no strange noises or difficulty starting.

I expect that the engine will outlive the frame, etc. and that the engine would be in no BETTER condition had I changed the oil in the fall for the last 15 years. Just my opinion, of course.