O-ring Versus Regular Chain

RichInFla · 11-01-2008, 07:48 PM

I was thinking of replacing my drive chain, which is showing signs of rust. I can get an new chain for $16 or an "o-ring" chain for $42. What's the difference and is the o-ring chain worth the extra money ??

Thanks.

and yes, after 3 weeks at the shop, I finally got my bike back. Should have replaced the regulator/stator myself !! I could have done it if I knew that's what it was !!

Easy Rider · 11-01-2008, 08:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RichInFla

I was thinking of replacing my drive chain, which is showing signs of rust. I can get an new chain for $16 or an "o-ring" chain for $42. What's the difference and is the o-ring chain worth the extra money ??

First, a little rust is not a good reason to replace a chain. It just means you haven't kept it lube'd well enough. It takes a REALLY LOT of rust to indicate a problem with the chain.

Second, yes, when it is time to replace the chain, you should use an O-ring or D-ring type. They will last about 4X longer than a "plain" chain. They have grease inside the links, sealed in with the O-rings.

Third, replacing the chain usually means replacing both sprockets too....AND you must CUT the old chain to get it off. This may not be a project for a newbie mechanic.

RichInFla · 11-01-2008, 08:27 PM

Thanks...I've only had the bike for a short time. Don't ask me why I didn't look at everything when I bought it. I have already put new tires on it, plus now a new regulator. So, I'm starting to look at everything wondering what else needs to be "addressed".

Here's a pic of the chain, what do you think ? Manual says Kerosene...what about that and a wire brush ????

[attachment=0:3956d1x7]Chain.JPG[/attachment:3956d1x7]

Sarris · 11-01-2008, 11:02 PM

I just replaced mine @ 13K miles with an o-ring chain ($52 from E-bay shipped). Easy is right, they last a bunch longer than the standard OEM cahin (BTW, Suzuki get $100 for an OEM chain). The o-ring chain still needs to be lubed at the normal intervals. It is also quieter than the OEM.

My bike, however, DID NOT need sprockets. Check the service manual for photos showing sprocket wear before you buy new ones. When I replaced the OEM chain, I loosened the axle, loosened the adjusters, and cut the old chain off with bolt cutters. Then I hand greased (w/ bearing grease.....not to heavy or you get a big mess) and installed the new chain. Then I tightened the axle and adjusted the chain per the Service Manual.

I test rode the bike and discovered the chain was a hair too tight and readjusted again. Took about an hour. No biggie.

If it were me, for $40, I'd replace that chain as it looks like it has been kinda neglected. Also, your bike is a 2000 model, and if the chain is original, it is probably is worn out. I would also recommend a cush drive rubber (hub shock absorber) for an additional $7 while you're at it because it's easy to slide the axle out and replace it. It really makes a difference in shifting, backing on/off the throttle, and basically smooths out the power engagement.

Good Luck.

:chop:

primal · 11-02-2008, 01:22 AM

Sarris, is the "cush drive rubber" not standard equipment? I ask because I noticed my bike had one when I had to replace my rear tire.

Easy Rider · 11-02-2008, 10:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sarris

I just replaced mine @ 13K miles with an o-ring chain ($52 from E-bay shipped).

Can't really disagree with any of that......but a couple of comments:

The change won't be as easy if you get a "staked link" chain instead of a "clip master link"

What led you to believe that the chain needed to be changed at 13K ?

I thought that the OEM chain IS and O-ring type.......at least on recent models ????

Easy Rider · 11-02-2008, 10:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RichInFla

Here's a pic of the chain, what do you think ? Manual says Kerosene...what about that and a wire brush ????

Tough call. It DOES look badly neglected.
It is the INSIDE of the chain, the rollers, that is the important part.
Also the amount of stretch and the sprocket wear.
What the outside looks like really isn't important.

It doesn't look like you have a lot of "dirt" on the chain, which isn't surprising since dirt doesn't stick if there is no oil.

So, here's my guess:
If you have a lot of adjustment left and there is no sign of SIGNIFICANT rust or wear on the rollers or sprockets.....then I would rinse it off with WD40 or mineral spirtis or even diesel fuel (not as nasty to work with as kero) and a rag and then keep it lubed good......with 90W oil as recommended. Don't get TOO carried away with the oil; wipe off excess before riding. Don't want oil on the back tire but a few small splatters on the inside of the rim is not unusual.

If you have never done it before, using a brush on something like that can cause a ***BIG*** mess if you aren't careful.......and it seldom really accompllishes anything except making it look better.

Sarris · 11-02-2008, 09:30 PM

Well Easy, I pulled on the chain link at the 90 degree point (rear) of the rear sprocket and the links were pulling almost off the the points so the chain was exhibiting excessive wear. I'm sure it was due to my lack of proper maintenance combined with all the sand we have here. AFAIK, the OEM is NOT an o-ring chain. Most all aftermarket chains these days are the Master Link style, but you do need to check. (the ones currently on e-bay are Master Link)

Primal, all GZ's come with a cush drive. I should have said I recommend replacing the cush drive rubber. (Be sure to grease it lightly with white grease before installation).

Easy Rider · 11-02-2008, 09:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sarris

Well Easy, I pulled on the chain link at the 90 degree point (rear) of the rear sprocket and the links were pulling almost off the the points so the chain was exhibiting excessive wear.

YIKES!....if that was done AFTER the basic slack adjustment....or with the proper amount of overall slack, then I'd agree; not only excessive wear but to the point of being scary. :skull:

Come to think of it, if I understand your test correctly, the overall slack wouldn't make much difference and you had one REALLY sloppy chain. Lucky you figured it out when you did.

**jonathan180iq** · 11-03-2008, 03:10 PM

I would clean the crap out of that chain with WD-40, a million shop towels, and a hard plastic-bristle brush. Then, lube it with a good quality chain lube and see what kind of shape it is in after that. If you still feel like you need to replace the chain, you're only out $10 or so and you'll get a good feel for what is involved with adjusting/removing the thing.

11-01-2008, 07:48 PM	#1
RichInFla Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Melbourne, Florida Posts: 119	O-ring Versus Regular Chain I was thinking of replacing my drive chain, which is showing signs of rust. I can get an new chain for $16 or an "o-ring" chain for $42. What's the difference and is the o-ring chain worth the extra money ?? Thanks. and yes, after 3 weeks at the shop, I finally got my bike back. Should have replaced the regulator/stator myself !! I could have done it if I knew that's what it was !! __________________ Just reboot it, you'll be fine. Login or Register to Remove Ads
	0

11-01-2008, 08:27 PM	#3
RichInFla Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Melbourne, Florida Posts: 119	Re: O-ring Versus Regular Chain Thanks...I've only had the bike for a short time. Don't ask me why I didn't look at everything when I bought it. I have already put new tires on it, plus now a new regulator. So, I'm starting to look at everything wondering what else needs to be "addressed". Here's a pic of the chain, what do you think ? Manual says Kerosene...what about that and a wire brush ???? [attachment=0:3956d1x7]Chain.JPG[/attachment:3956d1x7] __________________ Just reboot it, you'll be fine. Login or Register to Remove Ads
	0

11-01-2008, 11:02 PM	#4
Sarris Senior Member Join Date: May 2007 Location: New Port Richey, Florida USA Posts: 1,348	Re: O-ring Versus Regular Chain I just replaced mine @ 13K miles with an o-ring chain ($52 from E-bay shipped). Easy is right, they last a bunch longer than the standard OEM cahin (BTW, Suzuki get $100 for an OEM chain). The o-ring chain still needs to be lubed at the normal intervals. It is also quieter than the OEM. My bike, however, DID NOT need sprockets. Check the service manual for photos showing sprocket wear before you buy new ones. When I replaced the OEM chain, I loosened the axle, loosened the adjusters, and cut the old chain off with bolt cutters. Then I hand greased (w/ bearing grease.....not to heavy or you get a big mess) and installed the new chain. Then I tightened the axle and adjusted the chain per the Service Manual. I test rode the bike and discovered the chain was a hair too tight and readjusted again. Took about an hour. No biggie. If it were me, for $40, I'd replace that chain as it looks like it has been kinda neglected. Also, your bike is a 2000 model, and if the chain is original, it is probably is worn out. I would also recommend a cush drive rubber (hub shock absorber) for an additional $7 while you're at it because it's easy to slide the axle out and replace it. It really makes a difference in shifting, backing on/off the throttle, and basically smooths out the power engagement. Good Luck. :chop: __________________ Prudent riders live longer than moron riders.
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11-02-2008, 01:22 AM	#5
primal Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Hurricane, WV Posts: 446	Re: O-ring Versus Regular Chain Sarris, is the "cush drive rubber" not standard equipment? I ask because I noticed my bike had one when I had to replace my rear tire. Login or Register to Remove Ads
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11-02-2008, 09:30 PM	#8
Sarris Senior Member Join Date: May 2007 Location: New Port Richey, Florida USA Posts: 1,348	Re: O-ring Versus Regular Chain Well Easy, I pulled on the chain link at the 90 degree point (rear) of the rear sprocket and the links were pulling almost off the the points so the chain was exhibiting excessive wear. I'm sure it was due to my lack of proper maintenance combined with all the sand we have here. AFAIK, the OEM is NOT an o-ring chain. Most all aftermarket chains these days are the Master Link style, but you do need to check. (the ones currently on e-bay are Master Link) Primal, all GZ's come with a cush drive. I should have said I recommend replacing the cush drive rubber. (Be sure to grease it lightly with white grease before installation). __________________ Prudent riders live longer than moron riders.
	0

11-03-2008, 03:10 PM	#10
jonathan180iq Super Moderator Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Dalton, GA Posts: 3,996	Re: O-ring Versus Regular Chain I would clean the crap out of that chain with WD-40, a million shop towels, and a hard plastic-bristle brush. Then, lube it with a good quality chain lube and see what kind of shape it is in after that. If you still feel like you need to replace the chain, you're only out $10 or so and you'll get a good feel for what is involved with adjusting/removing the thing.
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