Bike starting rituals, help?

[deadman13]

and btw easy, i listen to you (mostly). im stubborn, not stupid

[Easy Rider]

Originally Posted by deadman13

it always turns over if the safties are correct. never said it didnt turn over, just didnt fire.

Well, maybe just once: "......what i need to know is why the kill switch would need to go from run/off/run to crank?" :biggrin:

Originally Posted by deadman13

and btw easy, i listen to you (mostly). im stubborn, not stupid

It IS sometimes hard to tell the difference when the only evidence is a few text messages !! :whistle: :cool:

[deadman13]

Yeah, that was a misstatement on my part. It'll crank either way (so long as the safties all work, etc). It just won't fire. When I flip the switch, run/off/run it cranks/fires right up.

And in reference to the "old" way, someone asked if I tried it my old way since I got the new battery (choke, key on, crank. No fire, turn key off/on then keep trying till something happened.) I have tried, same results. Nothing.

And easy, you, sarris and a few others here have "inspired" me with your advice to others that I haven't really had the need to ask too much, and when I do I usually bumble through it.

Don't worry, soon ill have pics and if needed a how to on installing a rebel front fender, and a few other things. I learned the hard way on a nice rainy day that its not the best idea not to have a front fender...

[Badbob]

I had switch issues with mine when I first got it. I'm an old electronics guy and I know about switches. My solution was take them apart. Carefully clean the contacts with a non abrasive eraser (usually white). Remove all dirt, corrosion, and spiders. lightly coat all the contacts with dielectric (silicon) grease. I also like to put a little dielectric grease on moving parts. The dielectric grease protects, lubricates and helps prevent corrosion.

[alanmcorcoran]

I've been following this thread and the one part of it that I don't get is, well, let me put it this way: It would make perfect sense if he had to cycle the on/off switch to get it to crank and start (classic contact oxidation or corrosion - on seventies era switches, switching them on and off [a lot] sometimes would clean the rust off them.), but what doesn't make sense is that the bike turns over (always), but only fires up after he messes with the kill switch. Is there a circuit from the kill switch to the spark plug? Does the spark plug need a little higher amps to fire (maybe there's enough current to turn it over but not enough for a spark? [I know, that makes no sense!])

Did anyone address this in the previous and I just didn't catch it?

[deadman13]

thank you alan! thats kinda where i was trying to get, but couldnt. it will ALWAYS turn over as long as the safties are ok. and it will ONLY FIRE once the kill switch is cycled. blah. ill be into the bike tomarrow anyway, so all will be revealed then.

on a side note, i just drilled the brass plug out of the carb for the pilot screw. they really didnt want you in there! its at least 1/2" thick!
and is there any tips on pulling the plug out once drilled? already broke a set of needle noses off trying to.

[Easy Rider]

Originally Posted by alanmcorcoran

Did anyone address this in the previous and I just didn't catch it?

Yes, at least once.......but I don't think he "got it". :roll:

There is only ONE set of contacts in the kill switch. It provides power to the starter switch AND the coil. If it turns over, the problem can NOT be the contacts.

Depending on how the wiring runs physically, the connection to the coil could be loose or corroded.......or a connection on the OTHER side of the coil at or near the ignitor......or a ground.

It IS hard for a non-technician to grasp how an intermittant connection can give all kinds of strange false symptoms. Even some techs. never completely get it.

I get the impression that there have been lots of mods. to this particular bike so I guess anything is possible. Somehow I don't think logic is going to solve this one. A meter might help but good old fashioned dumb luck is likely to provide the ultimate fix.

" is there any tips on pulling the plug out once drilled? already broke a set of needle noses off trying to."

Hope you are working on the right plug!! :shocked:

Yes, a nice sharp, small sheet metal or wood screw. Turn it in until it JUST bites and then pull/twist at an angle. I'd be interested to know (once you're in) if changing that adjustment makes any difference. It ONLY affects the idle and I didn't see any difference until it was WAY out of adjustment.......in both directions.

[Dupo]

I ground my plug down very slowly with a dremel tool until it broke through, then popped the rest of it out. Gotta be careful so you dont grind the screw.

[deadman13]

Only mods done are fenders, exhaust drilled and air filter, took scoop off. I just wanted to get to the pilot to make sure everything was copasetic (sp?)

[Badbob]

If I suspected a bad connection some where I would get my manual out and find every connector in the circuit and clean it up. If that doesn't work then check all the wires under a bright light for holes in the insulation. My GZ250 was down for 2 months once because if a tiny nick in the insulation of one of the wires in the headlight bell that was causing the ignition system to fail completely. It was intermittent for awhile before it quit completely at the end of my driveway. Lucky break. Repaired with a piece of 3M electrical tape.

If the starter spins the safety interlocks are all working.