was idleing and died - Page 2

derbydave · 03-28-2018, 05:57 PM

Check the side stand switch and the side stand relay. I was looking over the wiring diagram and those two look like they could be suspect. I would pull the side stand relay and disconnect the side stand switch and see if you still blow a fuse when you connect the ground back up.

derbydave · 03-28-2018, 07:17 PM

You might also use a meter on the disconnected ground wire and test for voltage being shorted to ground. One probe on the ground wire and the other on the battery negative terminal. There should be no voltage present.

Jeffro304 · 03-29-2018, 04:35 PM

i jsut wired a 20relay up as teh 20a fuse on the solenoid, so i didnt have to keep changing fuses everytime i tsted something, and the only thing that plugs in that blows the fuse is the R\R. leave it unpugged and everything is as it should be, bike cranks, no neutral light on without key etc etc.. so i jsut orderd a new RR form the local suzuki shop, ebay had it for 12$ but i got the top of the line RR from the shop for 80$ opposed to the 130$ tag they had on it, so in 2 days hopefully i will be back up and running hwen it gets here

Jeffro304 · 03-30-2018, 10:44 PM

sidenote from yesterday. you can easily test the R/R by setting your multimter to diode -<|~ the icon sorta looks like this "<|~" test by sticking the RED lead off the meter to the NEGATIVE female slot on the R/R, then probe each connecting pion with the negative lead. then flip and repeat *as in flip i mean put the negative probe lead off the meter into the positive female slot on the R/R. your values should all be about the same, i.e .507, .499 ,500 would all be good acceptable readings,aslong as it isnt to far from eachother, liek i would imagine if 2 connectors read .501 and the 3rd reads .800 there is a issue in the R/R. but its when it reads zero that you know for sure its toast,

anywho hope this helps someone else stuck and at witts end liek i was, thanks for your attentive and quick responses derbydave :

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03-28-2018, 05:57 PM	#11
derbydave Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2017 Location: KS Posts: 103	Check the side stand switch and the side stand relay. I was looking over the wiring diagram and those two look like they could be suspect. I would pull the side stand relay and disconnect the side stand switch and see if you still blow a fuse when you connect the ground back up. __________________ 2003 Suzuki GZ250 (Sold) 1986 Suzuki Cavalcade LXE 1986 Suzuki Intruder VS700 Login or Register to Remove Ads
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03-28-2018, 07:17 PM	#12
derbydave Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2017 Location: KS Posts: 103	You might also use a meter on the disconnected ground wire and test for voltage being shorted to ground. One probe on the ground wire and the other on the battery negative terminal. There should be no voltage present. __________________ 2003 Suzuki GZ250 (Sold) 1986 Suzuki Cavalcade LXE 1986 Suzuki Intruder VS700
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03-29-2018, 04:35 PM	#13
Jeffro304 Junior Member Join Date: Mar 2018 Posts: 12	i jsut wired a 20relay up as teh 20a fuse on the solenoid, so i didnt have to keep changing fuses everytime i tsted something, and the only thing that plugs in that blows the fuse is the R\R. leave it unpugged and everything is as it should be, bike cranks, no neutral light on without key etc etc.. so i jsut orderd a new RR form the local suzuki shop, ebay had it for 12$ but i got the top of the line RR from the shop for 80$ opposed to the 130$ tag they had on it, so in 2 days hopefully i will be back up and running hwen it gets here Login or Register to Remove Ads
	0

03-30-2018, 10:44 PM	#14
Jeffro304 Junior Member Join Date: Mar 2018 Posts: 12	sidenote from yesterday. you can easily test the R/R by setting your multimter to diode -<\|~ the icon sorta looks like this "<\|~" test by sticking the RED lead off the meter to the NEGATIVE female slot on the R/R, then probe each connecting pion with the negative lead. then flip and repeat *as in flip i mean put the negative probe lead off the meter into the positive female slot on the R/R. your values should all be about the same, i.e .507, .499 ,500 would all be good acceptable readings,aslong as it isnt to far from eachother, liek i would imagine if 2 connectors read .501 and the 3rd reads .800 there is a issue in the R/R. but its when it reads zero that you know for sure its toast, anywho hope this helps someone else stuck and at witts end liek i was, thanks for your attentive and quick responses derbydave ::
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