No start: Have spark, have fuel, have air - Page 2

PimpS · 03-16-2012, 07:49 AM

OK Alan! I called my mechanic, he assured me that it has to be something with the contacts in one of the switches (whether red, clutch, sidestand...). Other friend didn't know that i have to pull the clutch before starting, so he was more specific and told to look the clutch. In the few minutes time i have between the classes i went down and checked. Yup, the small switch (like a straw comes out, when clutch is pulled and mine came out 2 mm short). When i started the bike, he didn't, when i gave a straw a little touch, to come out, bike started with no problem... Now i know...
Is it ok to try to spray it with a WD-40?

Thank you Alan for speedy reply and help, next time i might need to clean the red switch, i'm starting to know my bike and his health quickly...

Can't wait to finish today's job, yihaaa!

PimpS

ps: to you guys and many my friends i'm like a kid, enthusiastic and overworried when something goes wrong, but overecstatic when the bike is being parked, just wanting to sit on it and go!!!! but then again, i am what i am, most mf's don't give a damn, said anthony kiedis (RHCP)...

alantf · 03-16-2012, 07:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PimpS

Is it ok to try to spray it with a WD-40?

YES! :2tup:

PimpS · 03-16-2012, 03:54 PM

Just came back from my 130 km ride... Great! A lot of fellow bikers on the road, saluting to each other... It's great!!!

isaac · 03-07-2013, 06:27 PM

Just to finally put this to bed: A couple months ago I bought another carb and swapped slides. Both had good diaphragms, good needles. The slide on the old carb had a bit of signs of melting on the front of the absolute bottom of it. The new one did not.

Fired right up and ran fine. After all the crap I went through. I'm definitely a pro at cleaning out a carb by now though.

Water Warrior 2 · 03-07-2013, 07:14 PM

Good to hear you got it running right. Another bit of info to share. Thanks a bunch for the update.

**jonathan180iq** · 03-08-2013, 05:25 PM

Definitely thank you for the update... No one ever updates stuff a year later. What were you doing with the bike in the meantime? Did this issue persist the whole time?

isaac · 07-27-2013, 01:01 AM

The bike was just sitting on my back patio, occasionally ridden when I could get it to stay lit for a lap around the block. I wouldn't dare take it farther. Yeah the bike was extremely erratic on fueling the entire time, to the point where it would vacillate wildly between over/under fueling at random. Sometimes spraying starting fluid in while it was running would speed up the engine, and sometimes it would kill it instantly. Sometimes the engine needed full choke to run at all, and others you pull the choke and it'd die instantly. Sometimes it'd have full power, other times it was barely running. Very intermittent, and very frustrating. All solved with a new slide.

Of course now I'm dealing with the more recent issue after riding the bike regularly for six months and a noise in the top end gradually getting louder until I was compelled to disassemble the head and found an exhaust valve seat falling out.

Goose51683 · 08-15-2013, 03:09 PM

Isaac,

I know this is an old post but do you have any pics of the locating pin you are referring to. You issue sounds an awful lot like the issue I'm having. I have a CDI on order (which is taking forever) but I'm not all that confident that is the root problem.

isaac · 08-19-2013, 11:43 PM

I don't have a picture of it but it's really easy to locate, after you get the nut off. When you take the left side cover off and undo the nut on the crankshaft, you'll see a hole where the flywheel meets the crankshaft. That hole is a keyway. The key slots between the flywheel and crankshaft to line it all up.

This is something I've said many times, and this is out of very, very extensive experience with removing the flywheel: GET AN IMPACT WRENCH. You will commit suicide attempting this without that tool. It's a godsend. I'm talking the difference between you spending hours on just removing that one part, cursing and throwing tools, to it coming off in seconds. Get an impact. It can be an air impact or an electric. I've done it with both. I've attempted it the other way in a pinch many times. It's a nightmare.

The impact is already helpful for getting off the crank nut, because you won't have to very awkwardly (and unless you're very strong, with great difficulty) hold the other end of the crank still. With the impact, you just pull the trigger, or worse case scenario put some vise grips on the flywheel to hold it a little. Just get the impact and use it. Be sure to check if the nut is reverse threaded. I forget if it is. You can tell by looking at the direction the end of the thread engages the nut. After the nut is off, you'll need a 3 jaw puller that you'll have to grind away parts of the insides of the arms (with an angle grinder or bench grinder) to get it to fit around the back of the flywheel to press it off. Get and modify this puller. Again, this is a tool that's the difference between this being a nightmare job and this being very easy. Just get the tool.

Be aware many parts of the starter clutch will attempt to fly away when the flywheel (starter clutch attached to the back) very violently comes off after the impact wrench has tightened the 3-jaw puller very very substantially. I'm not kidding: It is very damn violent when it releases. Spray PBlaster in there to help, so that the force is less to remove. Have rags and whatnot ready and around the area to catch flying parts. There are three of each pin, roller, and spring in the clutch.

Pull all that off and you'll see the locating key immediately. It'll probably still be pressed into the crank. That's if it's still there of course. If it shot off into the distance when the flywheel exploded off, then you'll have to find it. If it actually was eaten off of there like on mine, then it gets way more complicated and you'll have to literally weld a new pin onto the crank out of steel like I did. It works fine though.

03-16-2012, 07:49 AM	#11
PimpS Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Slovenija Posts: 475	Re: No start: Have spark, have fuel, have air OK Alan! I called my mechanic, he assured me that it has to be something with the contacts in one of the switches (whether red, clutch, sidestand...). Other friend didn't know that i have to pull the clutch before starting, so he was more specific and told to look the clutch. In the few minutes time i have between the classes i went down and checked. Yup, the small switch (like a straw comes out, when clutch is pulled and mine came out 2 mm short). When i started the bike, he didn't, when i gave a straw a little touch, to come out, bike started with no problem... Now i know... Is it ok to try to spray it with a WD-40? Thank you Alan for speedy reply and help, next time i might need to clean the red switch, i'm starting to know my bike and his health quickly... Can't wait to finish today's job, yihaaa! PimpS ps: to you guys and many my friends i'm like a kid, enthusiastic and overworried when something goes wrong, but overecstatic when the bike is being parked, just wanting to sit on it and go!!!! but then again, i am what i am, most mf's don't give a damn, said anthony kiedis (RHCP)... Login or Register to Remove Ads
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03-16-2012, 03:54 PM	#13
PimpS Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Slovenija Posts: 475	Re: No start: Have spark, have fuel, have air Just came back from my 130 km ride... Great! A lot of fellow bikers on the road, saluting to each other... It's great!!! Login or Register to Remove Ads
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03-07-2013, 06:27 PM	#14
isaac Member Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Orlando Posts: 39	Re: No start: Have spark, have fuel, have air Just to finally put this to bed: A couple months ago I bought another carb and swapped slides. Both had good diaphragms, good needles. The slide on the old carb had a bit of signs of melting on the front of the absolute bottom of it. The new one did not. Fired right up and ran fine. After all the crap I went through. I'm definitely a pro at cleaning out a carb by now though.
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03-07-2013, 07:14 PM	#15
Water Warrior 2 Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Squamish B.C Canada Posts: 11,409	Re: No start: Have spark, have fuel, have air Good to hear you got it running right. Another bit of info to share. Thanks a bunch for the update. Login or Register to Remove Ads
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03-08-2013, 05:25 PM	#16
jonathan180iq Super Moderator Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Dalton, GA Posts: 3,995	Re: No start: Have spark, have fuel, have air Definitely thank you for the update... No one ever updates stuff a year later. What were you doing with the bike in the meantime? Did this issue persist the whole time?
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07-27-2013, 01:01 AM	#17
isaac Member Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Orlando Posts: 39	Re: No start: Have spark, have fuel, have air The bike was just sitting on my back patio, occasionally ridden when I could get it to stay lit for a lap around the block. I wouldn't dare take it farther. Yeah the bike was extremely erratic on fueling the entire time, to the point where it would vacillate wildly between over/under fueling at random. Sometimes spraying starting fluid in while it was running would speed up the engine, and sometimes it would kill it instantly. Sometimes the engine needed full choke to run at all, and others you pull the choke and it'd die instantly. Sometimes it'd have full power, other times it was barely running. Very intermittent, and very frustrating. All solved with a new slide. Of course now I'm dealing with the more recent issue after riding the bike regularly for six months and a noise in the top end gradually getting louder until I was compelled to disassemble the head and found an exhaust valve seat falling out.
	0

08-15-2013, 03:09 PM	#18
Goose51683 Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: Indiana Posts: 621	Re: No start: Have spark, have fuel, have air Isaac, I know this is an old post but do you have any pics of the locating pin you are referring to. You issue sounds an awful lot like the issue I'm having. I have a CDI on order (which is taking forever) but I'm not all that confident that is the root problem.
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08-19-2013, 11:43 PM	#19
isaac Member Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Orlando Posts: 39	Re: No start: Have spark, have fuel, have air I don't have a picture of it but it's really easy to locate, after you get the nut off. When you take the left side cover off and undo the nut on the crankshaft, you'll see a hole where the flywheel meets the crankshaft. That hole is a keyway. The key slots between the flywheel and crankshaft to line it all up. This is something I've said many times, and this is out of very, very extensive experience with removing the flywheel: GET AN IMPACT WRENCH. You will commit suicide attempting this without that tool. It's a godsend. I'm talking the difference between you spending hours on just removing that one part, cursing and throwing tools, to it coming off in seconds. Get an impact. It can be an air impact or an electric. I've done it with both. I've attempted it the other way in a pinch many times. It's a nightmare. The impact is already helpful for getting off the crank nut, because you won't have to very awkwardly (and unless you're very strong, with great difficulty) hold the other end of the crank still. With the impact, you just pull the trigger, or worse case scenario put some vise grips on the flywheel to hold it a little. Just get the impact and use it. Be sure to check if the nut is reverse threaded. I forget if it is. You can tell by looking at the direction the end of the thread engages the nut. After the nut is off, you'll need a 3 jaw puller that you'll have to grind away parts of the insides of the arms (with an angle grinder or bench grinder) to get it to fit around the back of the flywheel to press it off. Get and modify this puller. Again, this is a tool that's the difference between this being a nightmare job and this being very easy. Just get the tool. Be aware many parts of the starter clutch will attempt to fly away when the flywheel (starter clutch attached to the back) very violently comes off after the impact wrench has tightened the 3-jaw puller very very substantially. I'm not kidding: It is very damn violent when it releases. Spray PBlaster in there to help, so that the force is less to remove. Have rags and whatnot ready and around the area to catch flying parts. There are three of each pin, roller, and spring in the clutch. Pull all that off and you'll see the locating key immediately. It'll probably still be pressed into the crank. That's if it's still there of course. If it shot off into the distance when the flywheel exploded off, then you'll have to find it. If it actually was eaten off of there like on mine, then it gets way more complicated and you'll have to literally weld a new pin onto the crank out of steel like I did. It works fine though.
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