wiring and splicing stuff

[jonathan180iq]

Soldering is hands down the best way to take care of electrical stuff.
But, if you're an electrical dunce, like me, then just get a $5 wire tool and some double female ends and go to town.



A case of all different kinds of these crimps can usually be had for around $9 and will last you for years.

Also, this website will show you how to make a nice clean splice without soldering anything.

Tapping and Splicing Wires: http://www.backinblackgp.com/Tap_And_Splice.htm

[Gz Rider]

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[alantf]

On the "how to" page, it says "you can solder the joint". As a retired electrician, I say you MUST solder the joint. No twisted joint is firm enough to stop any slight resistance that can cause heating up of the joint. As for the guy saying that solder can degenerate the joint - utter rubbish - as long as you use a solder containing flux, or a non corrosive flux designed for electrical work. It's the plumbers' flux that is corrosive. In nearly 50 years of soldering I've never known one of my joints go down or corrode. :2tup:

As an aside, a few years ago I was installing a 12v alarm system. In one of the detectors there was a joint that I knew that the maintenance guys would need to uncouple for use as a test point, so I gave it a real good twisting, and plenty of tape insulation. Unfortunately the examiner happened to pick this job for a random check, and also decided to check this very joint. When he spotted the unsoldered, twisted, joint, it was an automatic fail, and the boss gave me one of the biggest bollockings of my career.

[Gz Rider]

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[greatmaul]

wow, thank you so much everyone for the advice! I looked up splicing and soldering and it looks like it has many advantages over other options. I just wish I could roll the bike up into the house so the soldering could be done more easily. I'm looking for a good solder gun now that will work outside. I know they all get/stay hot, but I'm thinking a solder gun with its on/off trigger will be safer to use outdoors.

It really isn't easy for me to do complicated stuff outdoors because of the goats, but that is a whole other post.

[alantf]

You might find that a gas soldering iron is best for outdoor work. It's one I always use when I'm away from a power socket. You just fill it up from a can of cigarette lighter gas, and a fill lasts for ages.[attachment=1:27imogxe]Picture 003.jpg[/attachment:27imogxe]

I've also got a soldering iron that can be plugged into a car's cigarette lighter socket, but I've never used it yet[attachment=0:27imogxe]Picture 004.jpg[/attachment:27imogxe]

[mole2]

Originally Posted by Gz Rider

I've always though solder was the best connection myself. I was surprised in the marine industry that they like the type of crimp connectors that Jonathan suggested over solder it seems.

The marine crimp style connectors have some advantages over automotive connectors in that they can be heat shrinked to keep water out and for marine applications and since you are supposted to be using tinned copper wire,tarnishing/corroding bare copper should not be an issue. I've seen automotive wire go black on the outside and that would interfer with the crimp connector evenutally. With solder, it would not matter. The crimp connector is better than the connectors originally complained of in this thread though.

The marine industry also might be looking at the advantage of being able to do a quick repair at sea with the crimp connectors. My suspicion is that someone wanted to make a bunch of money selling connectors!

The real trouble the marine industry has with soldered connections is that they are stiff and won't flex. Couple that with the fact that due to gov't regulations solder contains much less lead (if any) and more tin wich can corrode.

[Gz Rider]

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[Dupo]

Originally Posted by mark1011

I'm saving wiring on the LEDs and the use of these absurd low energetic splices that you can buy anywhere...

:fu: banned