Bike was sitting Now won't start

[QUICKSTRONG]

OK I am brand new to this forum as I just brought home my first Suzuki GZ250 today. A guy had it sitting in his garage back in the corner all covered with dust and cobwebs. It looked really sharp no rust no dents just really dusty. Anyway $600 later I am home trying to start this and it turns over but no fire. It has been sitting for a long time, for some reason there was no gas at all in it. So I added some gas and have been trying to start it. Can anyone give me some directions how to start a bike that has been sitting for a long time. all the lights work so i dont think it is electrical. thanks for any help, I hope I didnt throw away 600 bucks

[JohnC]

Did you set the petcock to "PRI(me)"? Have you confirmed fuel is getting to the float bowl? Have you pulled the plug out to confirm it is firing? Is it wet with fuel?

The most common cause of a formerly running bike that has been sitting for a long time not starting is a gummed up carburetor.

[QUICKSTRONG]

Originally Posted by JohnC

Did you set the petcock to "PRI(me)"? Have you confirmed fuel is getting to the float bowl? Have you pulled the plug out to confirm it is firing? Is it wet with fuel?

The most common cause of a formerly running bike that has been sitting for a long time not starting is a gummed up carburetor.

Thanks, Yes it has spark and compression I am pretty sure it is a fuel problem.
I have 3 quick questions on this :
Can someone point me in the direction where I can find the directions or a video on how to remove the carb and clean it? :??:
Also what size is the plug 18mm? Where do it get a spark plug wrench for this? :??:
How do I remove the backrest assembly the torx screws just turn in the chrome bar. :??:

Thanks I appreciate all the help.
If there are visuals or videos out there that makes things easier for me as I am a visual leaner. :biggrin:

[jonathan180iq]

If you have a socket set, you should be able to find the right size for the spark plug. This doesn't require anything fancy like you would use on DOHC car. Just get a deep socket and pull the plug. You need to do this anyway if you are going to determine whether or not you have spark.

There isn't a video that we have of the GZ carb, but there are tons of photos and helpful guides on here. Do a search for:

(Needle Shim Mod)
(Jetting: Part 1 & 2)
(Jaime Rejet)
...There are loads of discussions about carb work on this forum and lots of helpful photos too.
Seriously, once you pull the carb once, you'll see how easy it is.

You can access most points on the carb by loosening the carb boots on both the intake and engine side and turning to 90 degrees. Don't be scared with you spill some fuel. That's going to be normal. You'll need some carb cleaner spray, nitrile gloves, and some eye protection. You need to clean the shit out of the carb and then get some fresh fuel in there with some sort of carb cleaner in there for good measure. (Seafoam/Berrymans/Marvel Mystery Oil) Something like that.

Also, since your tank sat bone dry for who knows how long, I would flush it with some kerosene. I would then install a secondary fuel filter between the petcock and the carb inlet. Might as well do this right while you have everything apart.

[QUICKSTRONG]

Originally Posted by jonathan180iq

If you have a socket set, you should be able to find the right size for the spark plug. This doesn't require anything fancy like you would use on DOHC car. Just get a deep socket and pull the plug. You need to do this anyway if you are going to determine whether or not you have spark.

There isn't a video that we have of the GZ carb, but there are tons of photos and helpful guides on here. Do a search for:

(Needle Shim Mod)
(Jetting: Part 1 & 2)
(Jaime Rejet)
...There are loads of discussions about carb work on this forum and lots of helpful photos too.
Seriously, once you pull the carb once, you'll see how easy it is.

You can access most points on the carb by loosening the carb boots on both the intake and engine side and turning to 90 degrees. Don't be scared with you spill some fuel. That's going to be normal. You'll need some carb cleaner spray, nitrile gloves, and some eye protection. You need to clean the shit out of the carb and then get some fresh fuel in there with some sort of carb cleaner in there for good measure. (Seafoam/Berrymans/Marvel Mystery Oil) Something like that.

Also, since your tank sat bone dry for who knows how long, I would flush it with some kerosene. I would then install a secondary fuel filter between the petcock and the carb inlet. Might as well do this right while you have everything apart.

OK I had the carb cleaned today but we still cannot get the bike to fire at all. Not sure what is going on here?
I can get the ike to sputter a little when I spray starter fluid directly in the plug hole but that is it.
Any ideas? I am starting the bike using a battery pack the battery on the bike is dead.
Also the plug looks dry like its not getting fuel even after the carb clean today. Do I need a full tank of fuel? I only have a gallon in there now.
Should the petcock be on prime, reserve or on? there is no off.
Thanks for any help I appreciate it.

[JohnC]

Put it on prime for now to eliminate that as a possible issue. Be sure to turn it off prime when you're not trying to start it. Also, check the vacuum hose from the intake to the petcock. If it is broken or missing it'll make the mixture too lean and make it harder to start.

I'm not sure what you mean by "I can get the [b]ike to sputter a little when I spray starter fluid directly in the plug hole". I assume you mean you then put the plug back before you try? Squirt a little (very little) gas in instead. Another trick you can try (use appropriate cautions!) is to pull the plug after attempting to start it and put a lighted match in the plug hole. KEEP YOUR FINGERS CLEAR!!! If there's air/fuel in the cylinder it'll light with a "woosh!!"

Regardless, it sounds like you're not getting fuel. You cannot clean the most critical passages (the pilot and choke circuits) without removing and disassembling the carb.

[alantf]

Originally Posted by JohnC

check the vacuum hose from the intake to the petcock. If it is broken or missing it'll make the mixture too lean

?????????????? I don't think you actually know what the vacuum pipe does. Vacuum from the engine opens the petcock, and allows fuel to flow to the carb. (rather like an on/off switch) It's NOTHING to do with the mixture, which is the only thing that could make it lean. Please don't confuse the newbies.

[Water Warrior 2]

Originally Posted by alantf

?????????????? I don't think you actually know what the vacuum pipe does. Vacuum from the engine opens the petcock, and allows fuel to flow to the carb. (rather like an on/off switch) It's NOTHING to do with the mixture, which is the only thing that could make it lean. Please don't confuse the newbies.

I think JohnC is thinking a leaky vacuum line will suck air into the engine and therefore lean out the fuel mixture. I'm sure he will clarify that for us.

[JohnC]

Yes, if the vacuum line is missing or broken two things happen. First, the fuel won't flow in "on" or "reserve" and secondly, the engine will suck extra air in through the vacuum port, which is after the fuel metering section of the carb. This causes an extremely lean condition at idle and low speeds by reducing the flow through the metering section of the carb and hence reducing the amount of fuel metered. This mix is then combined with the unmetered air from the vacuum port resulting in a very lean mixture delivered to the cylinder. On a single cylinder engine the leak is sufficient to prevent the engine from idling, especially when the choke is off.

[Water Warrior 2]

:2tup: Yippy, I finally nailed one.