Black plug, black smoke

[Jere]

My bike is intermittently running rough and not starting (starter cranks.) I'm pretty sure it's flooding itself and seems to get worse after riding for awhile.

I purchased a new air cleaner but haven't installed it yet (i doubt it'll make much of a difference.)

Anyway, I installed a new plug (regular temp) and everything worked great! Then, after two separate rides of about 15 km each, it died on me again. I took the plug out and it's black, but dry. I've probably worn down the battery and flooded it by trying to start it.

Where should I look first? Clean the carb? Choke sticking? Bad battery? (my Dodge Dakota book indicates that "weak ignition" could be a cause of black spark plug.)

Thanks. Let me know if you need any other info.

[Easy Rider]

Originally Posted by Jere

I took the plug out and it's black, but dry. I've probably worn down the battery and flooded it by trying to start it.

Where should I look first? Clean the carb? Choke sticking? Bad battery? (my Dodge Dakota book indicates that "weak ignition" could be a cause of black spark plug.)

The first thing you should do is clean the plug.
The second thing is charge the battery.
Third, you should put IN the new air cleaner (that could be the original cause and it is not always obvious when one is clogged).

If it does it again after that, then the carb. needs attention. Could be a stuck "choke" cable but I'd think that would be pretty obvious.

[Sarris]

Are you sure the petcock is not in Prime? That'll gag her for sure.

[Easy Rider]

Originally Posted by Sarris

Are you sure the petcock is not in Prime? That'll gag her for sure.

WHAT??? Since when ??
I don't think so. :whistle:

[Sarris]

Although I have not personally experienced a problem, I understood from other GZ owners, that if the needle & seat is partially obstructed, that the carb could gravity flood if the petcock is left in prime. Right?

Just a suggestion.

:roll:

[Easy Rider]

Originally Posted by Sarris

Although I have not personally experienced a problem, I understood from other GZ owners, that if the needle & seat is partially obstructed, that the carb could gravity flood if the petcock is left in prime. Right?

But you didn't say all that the first time......now did you ?? :neener:

If that were the problem, or problemS, then it is likely that it would not start at all.....ever, because the cylinder would REALLY be flooded. :shocked:

:biggrin:

[Jere]

I think it's only REALLY flooded because I kept trying to start it. lol.
It's not the petcock, though I do appreciate the tip. I think i'll be taking the carb apart and cleaning it anyway as I have no idea how much maintenance the previous owners have done.

I've done it once on a lawnmower, hopefully I don't run into too much trouble. I'm not really sure how to check the clearances of the valve though. I'll read the service manual first before I ask too many annoying questions! lol.

[Water Warrior 2]

Change the air filter first. For all you know the filter could be on it's last legs. The air flow direction is from the inside to the outside so remove the filter and look inside.

[Jere]

Will do WW. I actually bought a new one anyway (air filter that is.) So I'll just change it out. Seeing as the bike is 10 years old and I don't have any service records, I figured I'll just change it so that I know it's new.

On a hunch, I went to the dealership and played with a bunch of the GZ250s there. The choke levers on those bikes were WAY easier to operate than on my bike. I would say 3 to 4 times more force is needed on mine. I bought a cable luber and am going to try that in case the choke cable is siezed or just not lubed properly.

[Easy Rider]

Originally Posted by Jere

I bought a cable luber and am going to try that in case the choke cable is siezed or just not lubed properly.

That's not a bad idea but most people find those things messy and much harder to use than they anticipated. I'm betting that will be especially true of the choke cable since it has a "special" mechanism at the bar end.

Before you tear it all apart to get to the top end of the cable, I suggest you dump a teaspoon or so of rubbing alcohol on the choke lever and let it run down in the friction ring mechanism. Operate it a few times gently and observe where the movement in the friction rings actually happens. Blow the alcohol out with air.....or let dry for about an hour......followed by ONE drop of oil on the friction rings. Note: it is possible that the alcohol bath alone might free it up. If so, skip the oil.

If that doesn't solve the problem, THEN you can take it apart to lube the cable. Might want to inspect the carb end of the cable connection before you do that; it might be in a bind at that end too.

Good luck!