How-to: Install a voltmeter

[gzrider]

Ok, so i had a $19 automotive voltmeter sitting around that I never installed in my van, so I decided to put on the GZ.

I found an old black L bracket in the tool box,I never throw out unused hardware from things bought and there always is something, I end up using somewhere else later. so I drilled a 7/16 hole on one end to attach the bracket to the top fork clamp bolt, drilled 2 holes that matched the gauge mount housing,and bolted it to the bike .

I then opened up the headlight housing, that/s where the electrical connections are stuffed. I ran a hot lead to the ignition hot lead, and chose not to wire the gauges light, I am not looking to increase the bikes load on the electrical system. Also while I was there, I drilled a hole into the headlight housing and put a toggle switch in to be able to shut the headlight off for more available wattage on demand.

our bike has a 220 watt generator, and I'm trying to see just how much heated riding gear the bike will run.I went to a dealer in Spokane Wa, told them my bike model, and asked if the electrical system would accommodate 2 vests and 1 pair of gloves. the parts guy said that it would, so $400 later I had everything I wanted , now this was summer , it wasn't till recently that I decided to wire the stuff up, and in conversations people ,most were saying that the GZ couldn't do it. Now, I'm stuck with the gear, there was a 15 day return policy,I figured what would it hurt to just try run the gear.

I figured with the cost of this stuff most wouldn't dare buy what they couldn't use, and just would listen to the others saying what you cant do.Ill do the real test I figured, so in the carport I pluged in 2 vests 52 watts/4.5 amps, and a 25 watt/2.1 amps pair of heated gloves, all by synergy.

I used a multimeter, with the wife's help holding the leads,and tested the gear on all 3 settings in various settings, The readings looked like the bike would be able to run this stuff, as long as they weren't run on high. I recorded all various readings ,I then did a comfort test at night,and we found the vests to be plenty warm at low, the gloves needed to be on med to be toasty.

With this combo of settings, the readings were close to 12.2 volts, my batteries free standing voltage was 12.8, so I figured this would lead to a discharge condition, I then opened the headlight housing and disconnected the front marker lights hot lead for more juice.The turn leads were still connected , I just needed to see what this put back to the avail wattage. That seemed to be the trick, now I'm seeing 13+ volts with the headlight on,so I installed the voltmeter to be able to constantly monitor the electrical systems condition.

As I get more saddle time with the gear in use I will update this with what happened.With the headlight cut off switch and the voltmeter I can keep the battery condition regular, and start up is easy without the headlights load on start-up.I found that the voltage actually spikes to 14+ volts at idle and drops when the idle increases (without any of the gear), this is the benefit of the 3 phase configuration of the alternator design, in traffic the bikes voltage stays up because of this, It doesn't drop like most people assume, At least on my bike. This is a benefit of having a gauge to know the actual voltage at any time.You don't need to assume.

(paragraphed by Dupo for easier reading)

[Water Warrior 2]

Mighty interesting test going on there. Good write up and pics. I would assume you will be adding some insulation /protection to the terminals in back of the volt meter.
The synergy stuff works well on a low setting. I have a heated jacket liner with heated sleeves and am amazed at the warmth it provides. Not cheap but the comfort and fit is well worth it.

[patrick_777]

I'm going to move this to the How-To forum and sticky it. This is a very nice writeup.

[5th_bike]

Originally Posted by patrick_777

I'm going to move this to the How-To forum and sticky it. This is a very nice writeup.

Patrick, you moved it but it looks like you forgot to sticky it...
While you're at it, please be a good editor, righter of wrongs, and replace all instances of "voltameter" with "voltmeter" in the text - they are two quite different things, and this is all about a voltmeter.

Things I still want to install:
- voltmeter
- clock
- thermometer
... come to think of it, does anyone have experience putting this, um, 'instrument' around the handlebars?:
http://www.amazon.com/Show-Chrome-Di.../dp/B001V9VJV8

[blaine]

I installed a "kuryakyn" battery gage.It tells your voltage by a array of red,yellow,green LED's.It mounts in front of master cylinder.Ordered it through J&P cycles 39.95.It works well and looks good.

[Water Warrior 2]

Have you got a pic of the battery monitor installed. Still debating getting these items for our bikes.

[Easy Rider]

Originally Posted by Water Warrior

Have you got a pic of the battery monitor installed. Still debating getting these items for our bikes.

I've got a clock and thermometer from "clocks4bikes.com" and they are nice.....and.....the folks that run it are GREAT.

Also put a compass on (don't remember off-hand where it came from).

I think voltmeters/battery monitors are pretty much a waste of time.
In my experience, the meter reading doesn't change enough that you notice it until something else gets your attention first.

[mrlmd1]

Did you say you are going to shut off the headlight and front market lights so you can get extra wattage and stay warm? IMO that's not such a good idea, you are sacrificing visibility for comfort, which may backfire like you can't imagine. And it's also illegal in most if not all locales. Maybe I'm reading you wrong, but I wouldn't do that. The bike is what it is, you have to adapt to it, not the other way around. If you can run everything, including the headlight and marker lights, and your gear on the low setting, then you have to live with that and be satisfied. Get a better jacket or put on a windbreaker suit and/or insulated riding pants.

[blaine]

Sorry.WW I can't post a picture at this time as my camera is busted.It is 2 inch by 1 inch.you can get it either chrome or black.It seems to be very sensitive to voltage change.IF voltage drops below 10.5 red LEDs flash steadly to catch your attention.Same if overcharging.LEDs automaticaly dim at night.Fits perfectly in front of mastercylinder,the way it is pictured in J&P catalog.

[Easy Rider]

Originally Posted by blaine

IF voltage drops below 10.5 red LEDs flash steadly to catch your attention.

Yes, that kind of IS my point. If your system voltage gets below 11 volts or so, things will likely start failing.....like the ignition. I highly doubt that it would get below 10.5 without other "warnings". Anyhow, at that point, the battery is too weak to re-start the bike so you are screwed. The flashing light will just add insult to injury.