Electrical Problems - Again

[Badbob]

I had my first ever breakdown on the road today. The GZ250 just stopped running. I managed to get over to the edge of the road with now problem. Here I am on the busiest stree in Tallahassee right at the beginning of the hour of scampering. I'm in the sun its 93 + degrees and threating to rain. Humidity must be at 90%. I got it started several times and it would just die within seconds. No power at all. The it would come back. This I noticed the running lights would flicker when I had power. Wiring. Last time the problem turned out to be a cut wire inside the headlight. Assuming this was where the problem was I proceeded to remove the headlight.

As I'm trying to get the headlight off the lights are going on and off. Moving the cable I had so carefully wrapped with Scotch electrical tape caused the power to go on and off. Not again. I not so carefully removed the tape so I can get to the wires. A sticky mess in the heat. By now seat is running into my eyes. I sure was happy to have a bandanna with me.

The wires all looked good but moving them around kept turning the power on an off. I've got to fix this. There is not going to be any get it in the right place and ride home. The GZ250 vibrates so much that it's not going to stay. After a few minutes and some choice words I found it. One of the pins in a connector was burned and it was arcing every time the wire was jiggled.

I had nothing to clean the pin with in my tool kit so I popped it out and cleaned it the best I could with my pocket knife. This didn't work so I took it back out and smashed the sides down as much as I dared with my pliers. This made it a bit difficult to get back together. I had to bend the male side to match exactly and worked. I jammed everything back in the headlight bucket and head for home via the shortlist route possible. Now its near the peak of the hour of scampering and were are barely moving. My 15-20 minute commute is now 45-60 minutes most of it siiting in the heat not moving. I made it home soaked with sweat but the bike is still working.

the pin in the connector is pretty much shot and the plastic is burned form the heat sot it needs to be replaced. I looked in the IPB for the GZ250 and apparently you can't buy the connector. Since I can't be the only person ever to have a problem like this does anyone have any suggestions what to use to replace the connector with. Hopefully I'l get some ideas before I start slicing and splicing.

The tape I wrapped everything with isn't working to well. I don't want to retape every few thousand miles. Does anyone know what the stuff is they wrap the wiring harnesses in? Its a lot more abrasion resistant the n electrical tape.

[xt477]

Give me an idea of what connector and how many conductors I may have something laying around to fix it. If nothing else I would never use tape, a butt splice style crimp connector would much more reliable, especially in Fla.

Thanks for the heads up Bob....Think I may go add a few connectors and a set of crimper/strippers to my kit right now!

[jonathan180iq]

a picture is worth a thousand words. I'm pretty visual. If I could see it, I could probably make a suggestion.

[Badbob]

Inside the headlight bucket there is a a large connector. Its green with orings and seals around the wires. The primary power goes through one pin and eventually winds up at the ignition switch. If you have never removed you bulb before you should do it now at home in the day light. One of the reasons I got it running so fast was because I have been in there before. I recommend you remove and replace all you bulbs at least once so you can see what your getting into before you have to do it alone in the dark. I have also spent some serious time pouring over the wiring diagram for this thing. I almost have it memorized. I also carry a copy in my tool kit in a zip lock bag.

[Badbob]

Originally Posted by xt477

Give me an idea of what connector and how many conductors I may have something laying around to fix it. If nothing else I would never use tape, a butt splice style crimp connector would much more reliable, especially in Fla.

Thanks for the heads up Bob....Think I may go add a few connectors and a set of crimper/strippers to my kit right now!

You can't use a but connector to wrap a wiring harness. That has been cut open. The tape was from a previous repair.

I don't like butt connectors. If they are not a perfect for the wire and crimped with exactly th right amount of pressure they work loose. In high current applications they will get hot and burn if the crimp isn't perfect. They will collect water and dirt because they are not sealed. There is a reason the connectors in the headlight bucket have rubber seals. That said, they would probably do for an emergency repair to get you home or to a shop but I would not leave one in there. Especially not this one. Its probably got 35 amps going through it. Everything electrical on the bike goes through that wire.

[Easy Rider]

Originally Posted by Badbob

Its probably got 35 amps going through it. Everything electrical on the bike goes through that wire.

Except for the starter, of course. :roll:

I'd suggest a single wire connector; made for automotive use in various sizes, available at any car parts store. I always crimp and then solder. This requires removing some on the insulation around the crimp and the "sealing" with shrink tubing.

If you want something REALLY solid (and semi-permanent) get a butt splice connector. Crimp both sides, solder and sleeve.

[Badbob]

Originally Posted by jonathan180iq

a picture is worth a thousand words. I'm pretty visual. If I could see it, I could probably make a suggestion.

After it was cleaned up.



No Straight in shots came out good enough to see.



There are rubber seals in the back but I can't get the damn thing to stay put. for a photo.

[Badbob]

Originally Posted by Easy Rider

Except for the starter, of course. :roll:

I'd suggest a single wire connector; made for automotive use in various sizes, available at any car parts store. I always crimp and then solder. This requires removing some on the insulation around the crimp and the "sealing" with shrink tubing.

If you want something REALLY solid (and semi-permanent) get a butt splice connector. Crimp both sides, solder and sleeve.

I like soldering myself being an old school electronics technician that started out with vacume tubes. However in this case I really want to put on some thing I can get apart easy. I'm thinking insulated bullet connector and pack it full of dielectric grease to keep the water out.

[xt477]

We use butt splices all the time. Whelan’s Vista light bar with everything turned on draws 48 amps. At special events these things are parked and run continuously for hours on end. Through at least 4 crimp connectors on 8 gauge wire. Motorolla uses a bullet connector with 10 guage wire rated for 20amps. If this thing really pulls over 30 you better have a big bullet connector.

[Easy Rider]

Originally Posted by xt477

If this thing really pulls over 30 you better have a big bullet connector.

I think maybe he exagerated just a tiny bit for effect. :roll:
I doubt the tiny little battery is capable of 30 amps for more than a few seconds.

It is a bullet connector I was trying to suggest; just couldn't remember the proper name.
I'm not a big fan of dielectric grease in this type of application (high current). Just a tiny little bit of heat generated inside the connector and the "grease" will run.......both out and into the connection, making matters worse. I prefer to secure from the outside.

To each his own.