Front Brakes and Brake Fluid

one · 11-07-2006, 09:55 PM

This seems pretty easy to replace brake pads (front). The question is, where should I purchase pads and does any work need to be done to the front rotor? Brake fliud, replacing fluid, do I drain - fill with new - bleed - fill - bleed. then, how do i know if there is air in the line?

what else needs to be considered?

if this is in another section of the site, please let me know.

BadMojo · 11-07-2006, 10:33 PM

You can get all the information you need from the Service Manual. Just download it and look through it. Hope this helps.

http://www.gz250bike.com/viewtopic.php?t=30

one · 11-08-2006, 07:57 AM

i noted and read that portion of the service maunal. i know that there are tricks of the trade when doing repairs such as this. when I mean tricks of the trade i mean "do's" and "don'ts".

the fluids seems easy to obtain from any auto parts store, it's the actual pads (where to purchase). specifically if any other items should be addressed at that time. with bleeding, does everything get drained then new fluid or new fluid and when bleeding?

Dupo · 11-08-2006, 09:44 AM

All you really need to do is replace the pads. Draining the brake fluid is not necessary. Just take the pads off, compress the cylinder with a small C clamp (so you can get the new ones on and over the rotor). Inspect the rotor for anything out of the ordinary and replace the pads.

I bought mine from the dealer, but they are the Suzuki brand and arent that great and way overpriced. Badbob knows where to get good ones. I'm sure he'll post here the location/brand/part #.

BTW im moving this thread

one · 11-08-2006, 10:13 AM

Dupo - sorry for posting in the wrong spot and thanks for moving.

I'll wait for the other email for a place to purchase the pads from BadBob, this is a 2001 GZ if not mentioned before. Maybe all years are the same, the manual on the website is a '99 and I assume that it is good for the '01 too.

You're in Allentown and I am in the Montgomerville area. I have the bike in for a general look over prior to winter and misc. adjustments, (dealer in my local area - unamed), told me that front pads are slightly less then two-thirtyseconds - just under passing inspection - inspection is good for about 10 months or so. Dealer says replace pads and fluid as fluid is starting to discolor. I figure fluid is maybe $5 at the most plus an easy job, so I would do that while replacing the pads myself.

Have you replaced your pads and fluid yourself? Has anyone? I am looking for "things to look for" while doing this job. I have all sorts of tools "C" clamp, yes. Are there anyother tools that I should know about prior to starting this job?

You guys are great! Who else can I bounce things like this off? The dealer?

Dupo · 11-08-2006, 12:49 PM

Well how does the brake fluid really look to you? If it looks like cream soda (the light tan kind, very clear) then its fine. If its looking cloudy or more bronze then thats why they are probably saying to change it.

I've done my pads several times because of a squeal i couldnt get rid of. Pad change is very simple. Really isnt anything to look for than the obvious cuts into the rotor. Pad job should take no more than 20 minutes. I havent changed the fluid though. Although, that itself should be an easy job as well. Just follow the manuals instructions and you should be fine. Theres really nothing to look for with the fluid change cept maybe looking for dirt/rust after you drain it into a clear jar. If all is well then no worries.

Tools, nothing out of the ordinary. Get out your smaller C clamps and metric set!

Oh one thing i thought of, dont forget to take the anti-vibration backings off the old pads so you can put them on the new set. Thats one thing i missed the first time i did my bike.

BTW-

I go down to montgomeryville all the time (Souderton right at 309 actually) to see my father. I check out Montgomeryville Cycle all the time when i am down there to see whats new

Theres a run i take near you from my area that takes me along the Unami Creek by the BSA camps. Real nice area there to ride. Took some pics and video too! Can check em out here http://www.dupo24.com/shadow_album/index.html The ride photos are in "unami creek ride". The rest are just shots of my bike.

Maybe sometime we can meet up and shoot the breeze

one · 11-08-2006, 02:28 PM

Dupo,

The brakes were recommended to be changed as well as the fluid, brakes more so. Cost to do the brakes at the shop was around $60 +/- and I believe that included parts and labor, labor being $60/hr seems like it is a 20 minute job. I am sure that I'll take my time so it should take maybe an hour. Your point on the "anti-vibration backing" is exactly what I was looking for. What do you think the cost ofthe pads would be?

Thanks -

Dupo · 11-08-2006, 04:49 PM

Well from Blackmans they ran me almost $30. I've seen pads on Ebay for $15. Cant say for sure what they are on the net to order, might want to check www.bikebandit.com

Also remember, the dealer wants to make $, so they will say things of this nature to generate more buisness. Its nothing new. Id take their word on the pads, but not so much on the fluid (just a guess). Still, if you want to do it, go for it. It would be good learning experience for you.

The anti vibration backing - when you take the pads off, look on the back part (metal side) for a piece of black plastic against the metal backing of the pad. Just take it off and put it on the new pads. Cant miss them, unless previous owner missed them on a prior brake job. You should be able to see them if you look at the brake pad from the exhaust side of the bike.

Honestly, once you have done this job - changing pads only takes like 10 minutes. First time, yea, take your time. But its a real quick job to do.

Badbob · 11-10-2006, 08:16 PM

These are the pads I use. They are ceramic and don't squeal. They also are much better brakes than the stock pads. Go to http://www.denniskirk.com and search for the part number 19-799. They cost $27.95.

One issue you might encounter when changing the pads is pushing the piston back in. You may need to do this if the pads are badly worn or you didn't pay attention to the manual instructions and squeezed the brake lever with the caliper off. Its very hard to get the piston to move by hand. There is a tool made for doing this but a C Clamp with padded jaws will do the trick.

If you decide you need to change the fluid be very careful. Brake fluid is a pretty good paint remover. Be sure to use the correct fluid they don't mix. Use only new fluid from a sealed can. Brake fluid likes water and it its been open and exposed to humidity there will be some moisture in it. I would pump enough new fluid through the system to flush out any old stuff. This would also be a real good time to to change any old or worn brake parts like those rubber brake lines. Inspect them closely and if you see cracks or anything else that looks suspicious you might want new ones.

one · 11-10-2006, 11:45 PM

badbob

i purchased the OEM pads from bikebandit, 32 plus change with shipping. i do want to switch out the brake fliud at the same time. reading about it, it's recommended to connect a "cleaner hose" to the line then drain into a glass jar. what is a "cleaner hose?" i know that is by passes the wheel, brakes, tire and extends past the bike for an easier job. just wondering if a special hose is required.

otherwise, it seems that you add fliud to the until the fluid runs clear into the jar, manual says to use DOT4 - again, i just wonder about this bleeder hose.

from the posts, it seems that i'll be fine doing this meself and thanks for the help. (I edited this on 11/11/06 - 0730 EST)

11-07-2006, 09:55 PM	#1
one Junior Member Join Date: Nov 2006 Posts: 22	Front Brakes and Brake Fluid This seems pretty easy to replace brake pads (front). The question is, where should I purchase pads and does any work need to be done to the front rotor? Brake fliud, replacing fluid, do I drain - fill with new - bleed - fill - bleed. then, how do i know if there is air in the line? what else needs to be considered? if this is in another section of the site, please let me know. Login or Register to Remove Ads
	0

11-07-2006, 10:33 PM	#2
BadMojo Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Southwestern Illinois Posts: 82	You can get all the information you need from the Service Manual. Just download it and look through it. Hope this helps. http://www.gz250bike.com/viewtopic.php?t=30 __________________ 1999 GZ250, Maroon, Accessories: Bags, Windscreen (Retired) / 2007 V Star Classic 650, Pearl White, Accessories: Bags, Windscreen, Sissy Bar, Luggage Rack
	0

11-08-2006, 07:57 AM	#3
one Junior Member Join Date: Nov 2006 Posts: 22	i noted and read that portion of the service maunal. i know that there are tricks of the trade when doing repairs such as this. when I mean tricks of the trade i mean "do's" and "don'ts". the fluids seems easy to obtain from any auto parts store, it's the actual pads (where to purchase). specifically if any other items should be addressed at that time. with bleeding, does everything get drained then new fluid or new fluid and when bleeding? Login or Register to Remove Ads
	0

11-08-2006, 09:44 AM	#4
Dupo Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Allentown, Pa Posts: 1,255	All you really need to do is replace the pads. Draining the brake fluid is not necessary. Just take the pads off, compress the cylinder with a small C clamp (so you can get the new ones on and over the rotor). Inspect the rotor for anything out of the ordinary and replace the pads. I bought mine from the dealer, but they are the Suzuki brand and arent that great and way overpriced. Badbob knows where to get good ones. I'm sure he'll post here the location/brand/part #. BTW im moving this thread __________________ Photography Gallery *updated url - new site! Motorcycle Blog Facebook
	0

11-08-2006, 10:13 AM	#5
one Junior Member Join Date: Nov 2006 Posts: 22	Dupo - sorry for posting in the wrong spot and thanks for moving. I'll wait for the other email for a place to purchase the pads from BadBob, this is a 2001 GZ if not mentioned before. Maybe all years are the same, the manual on the website is a '99 and I assume that it is good for the '01 too. You're in Allentown and I am in the Montgomerville area. I have the bike in for a general look over prior to winter and misc. adjustments, (dealer in my local area - unamed), told me that front pads are slightly less then two-thirtyseconds - just under passing inspection - inspection is good for about 10 months or so. Dealer says replace pads and fluid as fluid is starting to discolor. I figure fluid is maybe $5 at the most plus an easy job, so I would do that while replacing the pads myself. Have you replaced your pads and fluid yourself? Has anyone? I am looking for "things to look for" while doing this job. I have all sorts of tools "C" clamp, yes. Are there anyother tools that I should know about prior to starting this job? You guys are great! Who else can I bounce things like this off? The dealer? Login or Register to Remove Ads
	0

11-08-2006, 12:49 PM	#6
Dupo Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Allentown, Pa Posts: 1,255	Well how does the brake fluid really look to you? If it looks like cream soda (the light tan kind, very clear) then its fine. If its looking cloudy or more bronze then thats why they are probably saying to change it. I've done my pads several times because of a squeal i couldnt get rid of. Pad change is very simple. Really isnt anything to look for than the obvious cuts into the rotor. Pad job should take no more than 20 minutes. I havent changed the fluid though. Although, that itself should be an easy job as well. Just follow the manuals instructions and you should be fine. Theres really nothing to look for with the fluid change cept maybe looking for dirt/rust after you drain it into a clear jar. If all is well then no worries. Tools, nothing out of the ordinary. Get out your smaller C clamps and metric set! Oh one thing i thought of, dont forget to take the anti-vibration backings off the old pads so you can put them on the new set. Thats one thing i missed the first time i did my bike. BTW- I go down to montgomeryville all the time (Souderton right at 309 actually) to see my father. I check out Montgomeryville Cycle all the time when i am down there to see whats new Theres a run i take near you from my area that takes me along the Unami Creek by the BSA camps. Real nice area there to ride. Took some pics and video too! Can check em out here http://www.dupo24.com/shadow_album/index.html The ride photos are in "unami creek ride". The rest are just shots of my bike. Maybe sometime we can meet up and shoot the breeze __________________ Photography Gallery *updated url - new site! Motorcycle Blog Facebook
	0

11-08-2006, 02:28 PM	#7
one Junior Member Join Date: Nov 2006 Posts: 22	Dupo, The brakes were recommended to be changed as well as the fluid, brakes more so. Cost to do the brakes at the shop was around $60 +/- and I believe that included parts and labor, labor being $60/hr seems like it is a 20 minute job. I am sure that I'll take my time so it should take maybe an hour. Your point on the "anti-vibration backing" is exactly what I was looking for. What do you think the cost ofthe pads would be? Thanks -
	0

11-08-2006, 04:49 PM	#8
Dupo Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Allentown, Pa Posts: 1,255	Well from Blackmans they ran me almost $30. I've seen pads on Ebay for $15. Cant say for sure what they are on the net to order, might want to check www.bikebandit.com Also remember, the dealer wants to make $, so they will say things of this nature to generate more buisness. Its nothing new. Id take their word on the pads, but not so much on the fluid (just a guess). Still, if you want to do it, go for it. It would be good learning experience for you. The anti vibration backing - when you take the pads off, look on the back part (metal side) for a piece of black plastic against the metal backing of the pad. Just take it off and put it on the new pads. Cant miss them, unless previous owner missed them on a prior brake job. You should be able to see them if you look at the brake pad from the exhaust side of the bike. Honestly, once you have done this job - changing pads only takes like 10 minutes. First time, yea, take your time. But its a real quick job to do. __________________ Photography Gallery *updated url - new site! Motorcycle Blog Facebook
	0

11-10-2006, 08:16 PM	#9
Badbob Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Tallahassee FL Posts: 945	These are the pads I use. They are ceramic and don't squeal. They also are much better brakes than the stock pads. Go to http://www.denniskirk.com and search for the part number 19-799. They cost $27.95. One issue you might encounter when changing the pads is pushing the piston back in. You may need to do this if the pads are badly worn or you didn't pay attention to the manual instructions and squeezed the brake lever with the caliper off. Its very hard to get the piston to move by hand. There is a tool made for doing this but a C Clamp with padded jaws will do the trick. If you decide you need to change the fluid be very careful. Brake fluid is a pretty good paint remover. Be sure to use the correct fluid they don't mix. Use only new fluid from a sealed can. Brake fluid likes water and it its been open and exposed to humidity there will be some moisture in it. I would pump enough new fluid through the system to flush out any old stuff. This would also be a real good time to to change any old or worn brake parts like those rubber brake lines. Inspect them closely and if you see cracks or anything else that looks suspicious you might want new ones. __________________ My GZ250 Blog Facebook Pinterest Google+ Tumblr YouTube Lumber Jocks
	0

11-10-2006, 11:45 PM	#10
one Junior Member Join Date: Nov 2006 Posts: 22	badbob i purchased the OEM pads from bikebandit, 32 plus change with shipping. i do want to switch out the brake fliud at the same time. reading about it, it's recommended to connect a "cleaner hose" to the line then drain into a glass jar. what is a "cleaner hose?" i know that is by passes the wheel, brakes, tire and extends past the bike for an easier job. just wondering if a special hose is required. otherwise, it seems that you add fliud to the until the fluid runs clear into the jar, manual says to use DOT4 - again, i just wonder about this bleeder hose. from the posts, it seems that i'll be fine doing this meself and thanks for the help. (I edited this on 11/11/06 - 0730 EST)
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