Chain Slack

[Dirt_McGert]

Service Manual Says 5-15mm at the middle of the chain between engine and rear sprocket.

Where do I measure the 5-15 mm? Do I Push down on the chain, then up all the way and measure the distance it travelled?

[jonathan180iq]

Somewhere in the middle of the chain, between the rear sprocket and the front sprocket, place a measuring device and then measure from the lowest point the chain can go to the heighest point. Adjust the slack so that it falls within the paramteres provided. I prefer my chain on the tighter side of the scale. That gives it more time to loosen up.

[Easy Rider]

Originally Posted by Dirt_McGert

Service Manual Says 5-15mm at the middle of the chain between engine and rear sprocket.
Where do I measure the 5-15 mm? Do I Push down on the chain, then up all the way and measure the distance it travelled?

Where do you measure? Like the manual says.

How do you measure? Push down gently; just enough to bring all the slack to the bottom. Note a reference mark on the ruler (relative to the floor). Push up gently and note the difference. No less than 5 and no more than 15 mm.

This is best done with bike in neutral and standing straight up. Even better if you can get the back wheel off the ground too.

Since sprockets are not always perfetcty round, the "purist" will take about 4 measurements, rotating the back tire about 1/4 turn between each. You then adjust (if necessary) for the required slack at the tightest point (point of least slack).

Then there is something about the tightest point in the suspension travel......but I forget exactly what that is. Don't think that is of much concern to us; applies mostly to off-road models with LOTS of suspension travel.

If you do make the adjustment with the rear wheel off the ground, I'd check it again with the rear back down just for grins.

[jonathan180iq]

Originally Posted by Easy Rider

Then there is something about the tightest point in the suspension travel......but I forget exactly what that is. Don't think that is of much concern to us; applies mostly to off-road models with LOTS of suspension travel.

.

If memory serves me correctly, depending on the design on the bike, compressed suspension will add to the slack in the chain.
However, as Easyrider said, this doesn't really apply to us, as our suspensions are more vertical than lineal.

But, in Easy's case, with his tempurpedic suspension, it might make more of a difference :tongue:

Take care,
Jonathan

[Badbob]

I don't know how you would check your chain tension without the rear wheel being off the ground because you need to turn the wheel to test it. Anyhow this is how I do it.

With the wheel off the ground and the transmission in neutral I turn the wheel a little at a time checking the tension on the chain as I go. I'm looking for the tightest portion of the chain. This is where I make the adjustment.

To measure put a ruler on the floor and up against the chain. Measure the distance from the top or bottom of the chain at the center. Without moving the ruler push the chain up until all the slack has been removed. Being careful to measure from the same place on the floor take the measurement again. Subtract the smaller from the larger to get the chain slack. In actual practice I just find the tight spot and eyeball it.

To adjust the tension remove the cotter pin from the axle nut and loosen it enough so you can adjust the tension. Make sure you have a new cotter pin before you start. Do not reuse the old one. They are not designed to be used more than once.

Turn each adjusting nut the same small amount. I usually do this 1/4 turn at a time. Be sure you are tightening the chain. Check it again turning the wheel and feeling the chain tension. Measure again at the tight spot if you not comfortable with the eyeball method. Repeat as necessary. Once you get the tension right. retighten the axle nut and install new cotter pin.

If you want to know the what the least tension is (largest distance) measure at the loosest point in the chain.

Notice that I do not use the marks for this adjustment. Mine are way off according to my alignment tool. I set the alignment using this tool and then I'm careful to make equal adjustments on both sides. This allows me to get away with not using the marks or the alignment tool unless I have done something that would require them to be realigned. Removing the rear wheel would require everything to be realigned.

When you think you all finished spin the rear wheel by hand while listening and watching for anything that doesn't seem right. You should be able to hear or see tight links as well as tell if the chain is binding in any way.

What I tend to think of as sprocket alignment some call rearwheel alignment or chain alignment. In any case what you are doing is adjusting it so the chain sprockets and the rear wheel are all in a line. If they are not properly aligned excessive chain/sprocket wear and noise will be the result.

There are several methods of doing this alignment. Rulers, strings and lasers to name a few. This is the tool use. MotionPro is very proud of this tool but I got mine on a clearance sale. Its the most useful motorcycle specific tool I have.

MotionPro Chain Alignment Tool

You could make one of these from a C Clamp and a steel rod.

[Dirt_McGert]

Thanks guys, I'll recheck everything possibly tomorrow.