GZ 250 or TU 250?

[Gidget]

Hi! I'm buying my first bike in the spring, and can't make up my mind what to buy- can you help? I'll be using the bike for commuting to my second job about three times a week, which is 100 miles round trip. I can take the highway or back roads. I am trying to decide between a 2003 GZ250 with about 2500 miles on it (good condition, $1400), or a 2009 TU250 for about $3000. I learned how to ride on a GZ, but am tempted by the TU for the fuel injection and the fact that it's a newer bike. I am NOT mechanically inclined, and wonder if the fuel injection vs. choke would be a good thing for me. Can both bikes handle the highway? I'm on the small side (5'3" and 115) and want to make sure I can handle what I get.

Thanks for your input!!

[alanmcorcoran]

Gidget,

Not that familiar with the TU, but a 100 mile r/t commute is a lot. I have a GZ and a fuel injection bike and I prefer the fuel injection 100%. However I am not sure if the TU handles as well as the GZ.

1) Do you need to be above 65 regularly?
2) Are there hills?
3) Is the road well paved?

If you have hills or you got to be at 65+ most of the time, I would get a bigger bike. (You'll get a lot of different opinions on this, you'll just have to weigh them out.) The GZ is excellent for around town and the occasional long run, but for 300 miles a week it's pushing it. The seat isn't the greatest, although for someone as light as you it might be fine.

The GZ will bounce you around considerably if you are hauling ass on rough pavement. Some of our freeways out here are a patchwork of concrete, asphalt, and are scalloped, ridged and in many places, potholed. It can be pretty fatiguing going 50 miles on one on the GZ. On the other hand, they are a breeze on my big bike.

If you already know how to ride I'd recommend something at least 500cc's for that much riding. Let us know how you make out.

[Gidget]

Thanks Alan. I wouldn't have to be above 65 regularly if I took the back roads, that would just be ~55mph. But I would be riding at night, and the back roads would have more deer... No real hills (I'm in Michigan), and the road is well maintained, for the most part. I am tempted to buy a larger bike, but for my size and skill level (newly licensed, no real "road time") I am leery of getting something too big. I hear that the TU is very similar to the GZ as far as size and maneuverability, but is a smoother ride. Just wondering if I would be paying twice the cost for something that doesn't make that much difference. I would love to just buy a 500-600CC bike off the get-go, but as a newbie, I don't want to get too much power under me and not know how to handle it.

[alanmcorcoran]

Well, I guess it's good to be prudent and only you know how quickly you learn new things. I was pretty terrified of big bikes but I went from a GZ to a 1850cc bike. I did have two minor mishaps in the first few months - one where I went down in slow motion in a parking lot and got some scratches on the bike and one where I lost my balance when forced to panic stop at a freeway entrance. Neither one was any big deal and had more to do with the weight of the bike than the power.

If you are new, you might want to go with the cheaper bike and plan to upgrade when you get more confidence. I rode my GZ for 3000 miles before I got the bigger bike and I think that is a good minimum. You could probably sell it for at least 1000 after you ride it for 3000 miles.

[mrlmd1]

WE and you need to know a little bit more about the 2003 GZ. Do you know anything about what maintenance has been done on this bike since new - any oil changes, valve adjustment checks, brake pad replacements? First off, regardless of the mileage and tread depth left on the tires, the tires have to be replaced as they are 6-7 years old and the rubber gets hard and brittle and the tires lose their grip with tires this old.. This is a safety factor and if those are original tires, they must be replaced.
2 new tires, with also the inner tubes, mounted, and balanced (if you want), will run $200-300 depending on who does it and their labor charges. That has to be figured into the cost of the bike or used as a bargaining tool to get the previous owner to drop his price. Depending on how it was driven, it may need new front brake pads (new owners usually do a lot of stop and go driving rather than long trips) and this may cost $50-75. It will be due for a valve check/adjustment in another 3500 miles, so figure that as an expense. Does it start and run well, is the battery OK with the bike not being ridden much? Have someone knowledgeable check out the bike or pay a mechanic or a dealer to check it out for you, but at least you need new tires.
Is the TU a new 2009 leftover, or is it used? I never heard of a new TU for $3000, they're more like $4000, plus all the taxes and other dealer fees. If it's used, how many miles on it, etc., etc.?
I slightly disagree with AC and think either one of these will easily do 300 miles a week at a steady 55-65 mph without any problem as long as they are maintained properly, like with periodic oil changes. I previously had a '99 GZ I bought with 2900 miles on it, and that bike ran amazingly well, just turn the key and go, never had any problem after getting a new battery, Ran like a top, very reliable and smooth. These bikes have been known to last 100,000 miles if cared for.
Something else to consider is, do you have to carry anything with you, like need luggage for your trips? That may influence a little what you get. You may want to buy a windshield if you are making 50 miles trips each way, for comfort and protection against flying debris.
In addition to looking at possibly a bigger bike, you may want to look at a Kawasaki Ninja 250 (just got one of those too). They are light and small (easy for you to handle), and economical, but will easily keep up at 65 mph highway speed, and will go 30+ mph faster than that. A little different riding position, but very comfortable. Just something else to look at, something else to confuse you with.

[Gidget]

OK, let me see. The 2003 GZ is from my motorcycle "school" so it has only been used by students. Not sure if that's a good or bad thing. But it has definitely been well maintained and has gotten a clean "bill of health." The 2009 TU is new in that it doesn't have any miles, but is leftover from last year, thus the low price. I wouldn't be taking much with me, maybe just a small bag of clothes to change into. I am not a big fan of the Ninja's look/riding position, but I have never tried one, maybe I should check it out. As you said, one more thing to confuse me!

[alanmcorcoran]

To clarify, I didn't mean to imply that the GZ wouldn't be able to do 300 miles a week, I meant to say I wouldn't want to commute 300 miles a week on one. Others have ridden them successfully for as much or more, but if given the option of something beefier, I'd go beefier. I agree with all the rest of mrl's cautions re condition, etc.

Also, I don't know about your school, but at my school, the mirrors were off, the gas tanks were all dented and at least four of the twelve bikes used in my section were dropped, a few several times, during the ONE two-day riding portion. I wouldn't purchase a bike from that school for ten bucks.

[frempath]

I think just to add another voice, you should also look at the 500cc bikes. They are still quite light, but would allow a bit more of the highway speeds you will probably need for the longer commutes.

[Gidget]

Thanks for all your input, I really appreciate it! What 500CC bikes would anyone recommend? I wish I could try one out before buying...I don't know what to expect since I've only ridden a GZ. At this point I almost want to give someone my money and have them pick me out a bike!!

[mrlmd1]

The school's 2003 GZ may be OK, but it no doubt 100% will need new tires if they are original (you can check the date stamp on the sidewall to see month and year of manufacture) and will probably need front brake pads replaced because of the type of stop and go driving done there. So you are in for at least $250 of extra expense besides the cost of the bike at $1400. Have you seen this bike and see what kind of condition it's in, dents. scrapes, bent brake/clutch levers and foot controls from being dropped or laid down? $1650 is still not a bad price if it's not banged up but you may be able to negotiate them down because of the added money you have to put in to make it safe, and the school would want you to have a safe bike, right? On the other hand, if you can get the TU for $3000 +tax, without all kinds of other added-on dealer fees (like prep, transportation, etc,etc) I'd go for that one. It should still come with a year warranty, which will ease your mind and maybe your pocketbook. With either bike, I would get a full windshield for those rides you have to make, also to protect you a little from the cold up there in Michigan. If you buy the TU from a dealer, ask for the windshield installed at their cost to seal the deal (another $100-150).
Take a look at the ninja 250 though and sit on one and take it for a ride. The disadvantage is that it's very hard too fit a larger windshield and saddlebags to it, and if you drop it you may break a lot of plastic. It's a fun bike, faster, just as reliable, different look.
For 500cc bikes, look for the Kawasaki Vulcan 500 if you can still find one, but add another $1500 to the cost over the TU. Do a search on here for burkbuilds bike and see all the threads on it and his reviews.