chain adjustment

So I'm at my mechanic the other day so he can check the spokes he recently replaced on my rear tire and I mention that it's a bitch to adjust the chain on the GZ because I can't get my torque wrench in there without taking off the muffler (at least the back end). So he suggested I try to loosen the rear axle from the other side to do it. Can we do that? I know the manual says to loosen the axle from the muffler side. I really trust and respect this guy, but is he off on this one.

Thanks,

Keith

[music man]

I don't see how it could possibly matter, tight is tight, whether you tighten it to so and so inch pounds of torque with your torque wrench on one side or the other. So I am going to have to agree with him, unless someone can explain a good reason to the contrary.

[primal]

I don't bother using a torque wrench. Just tighten it real tight (you'd have to be superman to do any real damage) and install the carter pin.

[Easy Rider]

Originally Posted by primal

I don't bother using a torque wrench. Just tighten it real tight (you'd have to be superman to do any real damage) and install the carter pin.

One can be a "superman" with a long enough lever.

I've been guilt of that in the past too but it is really NOT good practice with an axle....because....you can over torque the mounting nut(s) to the point of "pinching" the wheel bearings. When the wheel bearings are too tight, they can wear out REAL quickly.

A better way without a torque wrench is to mark the position of the kotter key on both the shaft AND the nut. That way, you can retighten to the same spot and the "torque" should be REAL close.

[music man]

Originally Posted by primal

I don't bother using a torque wrench. Just tighten it real tight (you'd have to be superman to do any real damage) and install the carter pin.

I don't use a torque wrench either, I was just using that as an example because he said torque wrench. I personally have never used one, of course now that I think about it, i have broken and stripped out and broken a lot of bolts and nuts in my lifetime so maybe its time I start using one.

[5th_bike]

That mechanic does not seem to realize that loosening the muffler bolt about half an inch, and moving the muffler a bit to the right is a piece of cake. Then, you can use a torque wrench on the rear axle nut.

Music man, I have one from Sears, it's about $25 and really handy. It's nice to know when something is tightened right.

[music man]

Originally Posted by 5th_bike

That mechanic does not seem to realize that loosening the muffler bolt about half an inch, and moving the muffler a bit to the right is a piece of cake. Then, you can use a torque wrench on the rear axle nut.

Music man, I have one from Sears, it's about $25 and really handy. It's nice to know when something is tightened right.

But why move the muffler when all you have to do is put the torque wrench on the other side of the bolt?

[5th_bike]

Originally Posted by music man

But why move the muffler when all you have to do is put the torque wrench on the other side of the bolt?

Hmmmm - you're probably right. I was just going by the book. :techy: Did it today.

The only difference is, the rear axle nut is a larger size than the bolt (the axle).

[Water Warrior 2]

The rear axle is nothing more than a large bolt. Next time the wheel is off put the axle/bolt in from the other side. Things will get easier and you can actually get at the cotter pin. Just remember to keep all the hub spacers in their proper position on the hub.

[primal]

Originally Posted by Easy Rider

One can be a "superman" with a long enough lever.

I've been guilt of that in the past too but it is really NOT good practice with an axle....because....you can over torque the mounting nut(s) to the point of "pinching" the wheel bearings. When the wheel bearings are too tight, they can wear out REAL quickly.

A better way without a torque wrench is to mark the position of the kotter key on both the shaft AND the nut. That way, you can retighten to the same spot and the "torque" should be REAL close.

*ahem* And I quote:

Originally Posted by Easy Rider

With a cotter pin to hold it in, I don't worry about it too much.
Use a big wrench and gauge by feel (really tight).

viewtopic.php?f=10&t=1701

:owned:

Also, from that same thread:

Originally Posted by Water Warrior

Don't worry about wheel bearing wear. You will not put undue pressure on the bearings. You will collapse the swing arm first with too much force and that is pretty unlikely.

So... I'll let you two fight it out to see who's right! :whistle: