Rejected inspection: front turn signals

[alantf]

I'm talking about the ground that's common to both of the front turn signal bulbs. So it's the resistance (should be low) between the metal bulb holders and the bike frame. Although, if you're sure they're ok, then its entirely possible that there is a break in the ground in the harness, because I'm not sure where the ground goes to, because I'm working from the wiring diagram, and not physically tracing the wiring on the bike.

[bwader]

I'm going to take off the front and rear grounds on the engine and wire brush and put back on then wire brush the negative terminal on the battery. Maybe I can get .2 or .1 ohms there at least

[jonathan180iq]

Worst case scenario, you could just get some universal blinkers and homewire them just enough to pass the test. Then worry about the actual OEM blinkers later... that would get your through inspection and on to bigger and better things, and buy you more time to worry about this pesky ground.

[bwader]

If I can find a set that are cheap then that would be a great idea. Hopefully the wiring harness will work and I won't need to. That's good to know

[bwader]

I tested a brand new 3.4 watt 14volt mini bulb ohms I got 5.5ohms not 42? it was on the 200 ohms scale

[alantf]

using the formula : power (watts)= volts X amps, and transposing this formula: 3.4/14 gives 0.243 amps

Using the formula power (watts) = I²R, i.e. 3.4 = 0.243² X R, i.e. 3.4 = 0.06 X R, and transposing this formula, 3.4/0.06 = 56?

You got 5.5?. so the numbers pan out, so I reckon you've just got the decimal point in the wrong place. :2tup:

[Fawlty]

Originally Posted by alantf

using the formula : power (watts)= volts X amps, and transposing this formula: 3.4/14 gives 0.243 amps

Using the formula power (watts) = I²R, i.e. 3.4 = 0.243² X R, i.e. 3.4 = 0.06 X R, and transposing this formula, 3.4/0.06 = 56?

You got 5.5?. so the numbers pan out, so I reckon you've just got the decimal point in the wrong place. :2tup:

Brilliant!!! That's blown my cosmic mind.

[bwader]

no math its just what my meter said 5.5 or 5.6 ohms on the lowest ohms scale of 200. Same setting I have been using on all the other grounds too.

But that would mean that may meter is off on other readings too. If this is true then the very best ohms reading on grounds of 0.3 or 0.4 ohms means 30 or 40 ohms for the best ground.

The math sounds and looks right I had some of those math questions in the nuclear navy school I went to years ago(I didn't make it through, I was a machinist mate because I score higher on mechanical stuff on the ASVAB test)......most I remember is V= IR voltage is equal to I times Resistance and then rearrange to figure other ways.

[mole2]

The only tie between the right and left directionals is the indicator bulb. That is why the problem goes away when you remove the bulb. The same problem arises when you have a single indicator bulb and convert your directionals to LED lights. The circuit resistance changes cause both sides to flash. There is a fix for this problem that will probably work in your case. it is to convert the indicator bulb socket to a straight plus/neg. It involves diodes and some wiring. On page 126 of the J&P Cycles catalogue they sell a ready made kit to convert the socket. It's only $8 plus shipping and little bit of splicing. I converted my rear lights on the VStar to LED and will have to install this kit if/when I do the front. Link is below. It is in the lower right hand side of the pages.

Diode Kit for Metric Cruisers

[bwader]

Makes sense it should work in my case, the power seems to back feed to the other turn signal. Its weird that I'm just trying to get regular mini bulbs 1.2, 1.7, and 3.4 watt in there and its the same thing. It would make more sense to me if I was trying LED lights.

What I don't understand is on the Chinese 150cc scooter I had, I put in LED bulbs in the rear and higher wattage bulbs in the front to be a little brighter. Headlights were two 25watt bulbs I went to 2 40watt bulbs.

I know in most scooters the headlights are A/C powered meaning they don't come on until you have the bike running. When you turn the key the brake lights and signals work normal even hazard light switch causes both to blink at the same time like it should. Then when you start in up the headlights come on.
Plus side was you didn't have to worry so much about running the battery down leaving the key ON like on a motorcycle where the headlights come on and is D/C powered.

So I'd say in a D/C powered lighting setup everything is a lot more critical to work just right. I miss that scooter I learned so much from it on the Itistheride forum and scootdawg forum over the one year I had it. Though it was a big pain having to tinker a lot and check every little thing, but parts were cheap. A brand new carb. costs about $30 for a 150cc scooter, belt driven, automatic clutch, CVT transmission.
I knew I didn't want to go the Chinese scooter route again after a piston rod went through the engine case despite my changing the oil very often. I didn't want to get a Burgman so I went with the GZ.