Backfiring and uneven idle

[Easy Rider]

Originally Posted by roncg41677

Electrical issues are too complex for me. Like when you say replace the switch, which actual physical part are you talking about? The button? The connector? The relay or the whole assembly? I'm really not trying to be a pain, I just don't know.

All you have to fear is fear itself.

You've had the connectors apart once and that's about as complicated as it gets for this problem.

The "switch" only comes as the whole assembly. Look at it for a minute; see where the screws or bolts are that holds it on. Put the stand up (while someone else holds the bike) and notice where the stand contacts the "button".

Disconnect the wires; unbolt the old switch assembly; bolt on the new one. Position it near as posssible the same as old one (if there is any "adjustment" in the mount. Plug the wires back in. Test that the stand pushes the button properly. DONE.

Good idea to use some blue Loctite on the mounting bolts. Failing that, a little dab of enamel paint or nail polish works too. Might want to clean bolts and hole if oily/dirty.

Don't get your shorts all tied up with the details. Just go for it.

OTHER OPTION:
Take it to the Zuki shop. The fix there should run you about $50.

[mr. softie]

This whole thread and the problems ron and others have had really point out one of the often neglected but important aspects of motorcycle maintainance.

Bikes really have to operate in a hostile environment, with all the wiring connectors basically exposed to the elements. I think it really is worth spending a bit of time every 5000 miles or so doing regular maintainance to the bike. As part of the regular maintainance I pull every connector apart and clean the contacts with some Radio Shack Precision Electronics Cleaner. It is a spray with a brush. I then fill the connectors with dielectric tune up grease, and reassemble. The action of pushing the connectors together will displace the grease off the actual contacts, but the grease will protect the contacts from moisture and oxidation. Actually once you do this it should protect your connections for quite a while, years in fact. Do the same for all the connectors, including the lights, light sockets etc. Dielectric grease is a non conductor, and helps prevent electrical "leaks" as well as protecting the connection from moisture and oxidation.

People who ride only on nice warm dry sunny days and always keep the bike inside might not need to do this, but even washing the bike will tend to introduce moisture to the connectors, with the resulting problems. Those of us who live in areas of lousy wet weather and ride everyday definitely benefit from this preventative care.

[roncg41677]

Originally Posted by Easy Rider

The "switch" only comes as the whole assembly. Look at it for a minute; see where the screws or bolts are that holds it on. Put the stand up (while someone else holds the bike) and notice where the stand contacts the "button".

Cool. So the "switch" is the whole thing, button, wires and all? I checked Bike Bandit and couldn't find it. Am I missing it? I guess the dealership is the next option, at least to get the part. I can't afford to pay for the service, especially if I can do it myself (albeit with a LOT of help from you guys )

Mr. Softie, I will definitely do what you suggested. It can get pretty wet here in FL, and my bike stays out on the carport. The Precision Electronics Cleaner sounds like exactly what I was looking for. I'll give that good cleaning/insulation a try before I venture into replacing the switch/button/doohickey. Thanks so much for all your help! I'll update when something starts working again, which will hopefully be sooner than later .

[mr. softie]

The switch is on bikebandit, but it is $60. I would check with the dealer, as prices are usually cheaper at the dealer for stock parts and there is no shipping. Number 11 on this diagram of the wiring harness. See http://www.bikebandit.com/suzuki-mot...1-2001/o/m6284 scroll down to the Wiring harness.

I would take the switch off the bike, and see if I could disassemble it and clean the inside, or at least try to spray a cleaner in there and work the switch. Because of it's position under the bike it is exposed to very adverse conditions. If you have a continuity tester or multimeter check to make sure it is working and if it is you may have a broken wire leading to it.

[Easy Rider]

Originally Posted by mr. softie

People who ride only on nice warm dry sunny days and always keep the bike inside might not need to do this, but even washing the bike will tend to introduce moisture to the connectors, with the resulting problems.

Yep, that sounds pretty much like me. (Crossing fingers that I don't get caught is a BIG ass thunderstorm next spring). :roll:

I really don't believe in washing a bike that isn't ridden off-road. I polish the tank, fenders, pipes, wheels and bars occasionally with quick cleaner/polish but it's lucky if it gets a real wash once a year.

[roncg41677]

Thanks. Don't know how I missed that on Bikebandit.

I bought the cleaner at Radio Shack tonight, but they didn't have the grease, and I couldn't find it at Walmart in the auto section or hardware section. Where can I find that dialectic grease?

[mr. softie]

NAPA etc. Auto parts store will have it.

[Water Warrior 2]

You can also get a reasonable view of the side stand switch by looking under the bike from the right hand side while it is on the side stand.

[roncg41677]

Well, I just got back from pushing the bike home .

I sprayed the contacts with CRC cleaner and put the dialectic grease on them. I sprayed the cleaner into the switch too. Started the bike up and it sounded good. Geared up and started around the block and no more sputtering. I took it onto the main road because I wanted to get the revs up more and make sure it was okay.

When I really revved it up in 1st gear the power dropped, like it was bogging down. By the time I was in 3rd gear (around 40mph) it started backfiring, then the engine died. I coasted as far as I could and pulled over. It would start up and run fine in N, then die as soon as I put it into first :mad: .

A couple of things:

• I never mentioned, but the power loss at higher rpms was happening before it died the last time too.[/*:m:3ihupq0g]
• When I was spraying the cleaner I checked the switch. With the stand UP it's not being pushed in all the way. It is being pushed to within maybe 1/8 to 1/4 inch of the housing. I guess the next thing is to pry the metal tab out a bit so it will push in further. But I can't imagine that letting it run fine till the rpm's get up there?[/*:m:3ihupq0g]
• I don't know how high I was revving it (no tach, obviously), but it was probably just at the bike's upper limits. I'm pretty conservative in my riding, and wouldn't be too crazy.[/*:m:3ihupq0g]

Clueless.

[mr. softie]

Is the switch movable to adjust by loosening the bolts and sliding it or is it a fixed position? Thinking possible slots on mounting. Sorry you are having such problems and hope we can help you somehow find a fix. Kinda hard without being there.