I heard marbles rattling in the engine and it just stopped.

[dannylightning]

a breaker bar to get the axel bolt loose, the torque on the rear axel is only supposed to be tightened to something like 50lbs of torque unless it is rusty or corroded it should be easy to get off. don't remember exactly the amount of torque needed so do not go by what i have just said, but i'm pretty sure it was 50 some lbs. i used a torque wrench i got at auto zone to tighten it up, i may have used it to get the wheel off too, cant remember but it cost about 10 dollars. make sure you put in a new cotter pin after removing the old one.

[alantf]

Originally Posted by dannylightning

i used a torque wrench ........... i may have used it to get the wheel off too,

Not a good idea. You should use a spanner (wrench?) The torque wrench is used to TIGHTEN to the correct torque. If the nut has been tightened up too tight, you stand a chance of damaging the torque wrench. Also, the last one that I borrowed (a few years ago) had a ratchet that only worked clockwise, to stop you loosening the nuts with it. Dunno how that would have worked on a left hand thread

[bonehead]

47 ft/lbs IIRC.

[bonehead]

Originally Posted by alantf

Not a good idea. You should use a spanner (wrench?) The torque wrench is used to TIGHTEN to the correct torque. If the nut has been tightened up too tight, you stand a chance of damaging the torque wrench. Also, the last one that I borrowed (a few years ago) had a ratchet that only worked clockwise, to stop you loosening the nuts with it. Dunno how that would have worked on a left hand thread

:plus1:

Most quality torque wrenches DO have the capabilities to torque lt and rt hand bolts.

[dannylightning]

Originally Posted by bonehead

:plus1:

Most quality torque wrenches DO have the capabilities to torque lt and rt hand bolts.

my torque wrench is basically a long bar and you operate it by hand, it has a little gauge that lets you know how much pressure you are putting on it, think it was 12 bucks. just a really long bar with a socket fitting on the end a a guage that lets you know how much pressure you are applying.. so if you are taking some thing off that says 47 lbs of torque, you can also see how much pressure you are using to try and loosen something, if you pay attention to that and see it is taking way more pressure than it should to loosen you know not to crank down much harder on it and break something off that is stuck.

that is my opinion on it.

[patrick_777]

There are several types of torque wrenches, some more accurate than others. In that light, you DO get what you pay for. I use a torque wrench about twice a year or so, so I went with the cheap breaker kind (internal linkage that "snaps" when you reach the set torque). I've also used the one Danny is talking about (the gauge type) and they work just fine too. The pricier ones use digital gizmos and whatsits in side and feed the actual tension to a digital thingy that beeps or vibrates or sends an email or something when you reach the right torque.

As long as you're in the range (not over or under by a lot), then you're probably good with the cheaper ones. Just ballparking it without a torque wrench is not a good idea though, because what FEELS like 20lbs of torque to you could easily be 50, or 5 depending on the bolt, threading, the wrench, any bike movement, the weather, your joints, muscles, sinuses, etc etc. Too many variables.

[bonehead]

Originally Posted by patrick_777

There are several types of torque wrenches, some more accurate than others. In that light, you DO get what you pay for. I use a torque wrench about twice a year or so, so I went with the cheap breaker kind (internal linkage that "snaps" when you reach the set torque). I've also used the one Danny is talking about (the gauge type) and they work just fine too. The pricier ones use digital gizmos and whatsits in side and feed the actual tension to a digital thingy that beeps or vibrates or sends an email or something when you reach the right torque.

As long as you're in the range (not over or under by a lot), then you're probably good with the cheaper ones. Just ballparking it without a torque wrench is not a good idea though, because what FEELS like 20lbs of torque to you could easily be 50, or 5 depending on the bolt, threading, the wrench, any bike movement, the weather, your joints, muscles, sinuses, etc etc. Too many variables.

:plus1:

[tommyjoebilly]

I have just been schooled on torque wrenches. I love it. Thanks. I'm mezmerized by that cat in your profile pic, btw, Patrick.

[Water Warrior 2]

Warning, do not lube the threads before torquing or you will be way too tight. Think CLEAN DRY threads.

[tommyjoebilly]

That makes sense, WW. Less resistance equals inaccurate reading. Nice.