Change Your Oil

[jonathan180iq]

Changed over to Mobil1 10-40 automotive high-mileage oil. This stuff claims to have anti-wear additives but does not contain any energy conserving additives.

After two days I can report no clutch slipping.

The Mobil1 only cost me $6.88 per quart at Autozone.

I also installed a K&N oil filter...
I'll agree with what Badbob has said before, except for being a little more pink than the Suzuki filters, they look exactly the same. Whether or not the filtering media does what K&N says it does is something that none of us can report on anyway.

[Easy Rider]

Originally Posted by jonathan180iq

Changed over to Mobil1 10-40 automotive high-mileage oil. This stuff claims to have anti-wear additives but does not contain any energy conserving additives.

I think you should read up on "high-mileage" oils a bit more.
It is indeed good stuff for an OLD engine; cut the oil use about 1/2 in my old pickup truck
BUT........
One of the things it does is swell the valve guide seals more than "normal" to make up for wear there.
That would concern me in a "not-old" engine. I'd be afraid that it would make valve guide seals that are NOT worn much to tighten up and wear faster.

Disclaimer: I am NOT an automotive or oil engineer. This is my guess only (not even an opinion, really) and may be entirely wrong. Just a heads up.

[jonathan180iq]

I wouldn't have gotten the high mileage stuff but that's all that was available in 10-40 and I wanted to give Mobil1 a try. The Motorcycle specific Mobil1 was $10.98 per quart. What a crock...

Anyway, I know that the high-mileage stuff is supposed to condition seals and stuff but we're only talking about 3000 miles. So, I'm not too worried about possibly over conditioning them. I'll switch out oils next time to something different anyway.

So far, the Mobil1 feels is a little smoother while shifting than the Castrol Syntec that I was using but that's a very small difference. I'll probably stick with the cheaper stuff in the future.

This topic is pretty much dead. I'll leave it alone if it's not going to be added to the sticky list.

[JIBTEXHNKA]

easy, you may not be an engineer but you seem to know a lot more than i do... i recently put high-mileage oil in my camry because, well, it's got high mileage (249000 miles last i checked). but it doesn't leak/burn oil and everything runs great. in this case is it even worth it to use special oil? i usually don't.

actually, you are an engineer, aren't you? just not automotive.

[Easy Rider]

Originally Posted by JIBTEXHNKA

actually, you are an engineer, aren't you? just not automotive.

An Engineering Technician, actually. The phone company called me an Engineer but it wasn't really true! :roll:

I don't think the actual age or mileage is as important as how the engine is acting. Are you really saying that you have 240,000+ on the original engine AND you have no oil useage AT ALL??

If that's true, it is pretty remarkable and I certainly wouldn't use the high mileage oil.

At this point, however, there is a tricky call to make.
Since you put the H/M oil in there once, I'd be inclined to stay with it.
It probably won't make any difference what you do.

[JIBTEXHNKA]

Originally Posted by Easy Rider

Are you really saying that you have 240,000+ on the original engine AND you have no oil useage AT ALL??

i might have exaggerated a LITTLE bit.... i put in five quarts and drained 4 and 1/2 five months later (i don't do well with schedules). man, i love that car. i've put over 100,000 miles on it and the only problems i ever had were:
1. itty bitty vacuum leak because of a split hose (itty bitty leak, not itty bitty problem)
2. timing belt broke

not that this is a thread about cars or anything. and from what i can tell camrys don't really have any kind of following, but they should. or at least mine should.

[FreyGrimrod]

Great sticky but one more bump for suggesting an inclusion of something about the O-ring on the filter cap. Am I the only one obsessive enough to replace it and make sure its wet with a bit of fresh oil all the way around every time I change the oil? Of course I'm one of those saps who is willing to pay the extra $10 for motorcycle oil (yes its way to expensive but using so little of it) and the only possible difference would be its performance in direct metal on metal contact something one hopes never occurs between it and regular oil.

[jonathan180iq]

I just make sure the O-ring is seated properly and that's about it.

Just because, I emptied the high-mileage oil and swithed over to Castrol Syntec Blend. When the weather is warm, it performs equally with the Syntec synthetic. When it's cold, it acts like Dino oil. It was only $4.48 and is "formulated to protect against constant stop-n-go driving" and contains the same additives as the full synthetic. Performance is pretty good and this is a cheaper oil. Again, we'll see how it holds up.

[Orpheus]

Originally Posted by FreyGrimrod

Great sticky but one more bump for suggesting an inclusion of something about the O-ring on the filter cap. Am I the only one obsessive enough to replace it and make sure its wet with a bit of fresh oil all the way around every time I change the oil? Of course I'm one of those saps who is willing to pay the extra $10 for motorcycle oil (yes its way to expensive but using so little of it) and the only possible difference would be its performance in direct metal on metal contact something one hopes never occurs between it and regular oil.

I changed the o-ring at 5k (just because the previous owner had bought one and left it under the seat) and I'll probably change it again at 10k, but I don't think it's a big deal either way unless it's dried out or broken or something (but I could be wrong). And I always do the oil-around-the-gasket thing too, since that's the way my dad taught me to install the filter on a car. Not sure if that really matters, either.

[patrick_777]

Originally Posted by Orpheus

And I always do the oil-around-the-gasket thing too, since that's the way my dad taught me to install the filter on a car.

Ditto here.