Reasons for poor gas mileage?

[mr. softie]

Wet weather can have adverse affects if there is a weak spot in the ignition, for example a crack in the insulation of your spark plug wire or "boot", or a myriad of other faults. I like to spray "wire dryer" on all the electrical stuff once in a while to forestall these "leakage" issues. Not that your bike is running poorly because of the wet weather Alan. However too large a spark plug gap(higher resistance) will more likely cause the juice to seek easier paths to ground than a properly gapped plug , and it's worse when components and/or connections are damp or dirty. (Saw the pics of your plug Alan, looked like a bit of erosion/wear on your plug had possibly enlarged the gap out of spec).

Back to the OP's question of why the poor gas mileage, I was doing service to my bike today and noticed the rear brake was not releasing fully, because of a sluggish cable. I had noticed my mileage dropping a bit as well. I disconnected the cable at the wheel, disengaged the clamps, raised the back end of the cable, and funneled some PB Blaster into it. Presto no more sluggish cable and my rear brake is releasing as it should now. So it could just be something simple causing the drop in mileage. Front calipers can also bind and cause a dragging front brake. so if possible raise each wheel off the ground and give it a spin to check.

[Rick]

Update: mystery solved (I think). I noticed a few days ago that my rear brake pedal was feeling kind of sticky, so I lubed the moving parts and cable, and *voila*, I'm back up to my usual MPG. I guess it wasn't returning to the full resting position and was dragging a little. :popcorn:

[Sarris]

Alan, I guess I don't understand why you think there is a problem. The bike is supposed to run like shit while it's warming up. I run my GeeZee about 5-6 miles under 1/2 - 3/4 choke most Florida mornings. And it basically DOES run like shit 'till it warms up. After that?....Nothing wrong, no problemo. Perhaps it's nothing more than a slightly low idle adjustment?

Rick, double check your brake adjustment to be sure it's ok! Hopefully, you didn't burn up the shoes.

[Joho]

Alan, my idle speed used to race during warmup was well.

My idle speed was set muchtoo high, and there was too much slack in the feed/return throttle cables. I'd suggest you check those, and make sure there is sufficient tension.

[Easy Rider]

Originally Posted by Sarris

Perhaps it's nothing more than a slightly low idle adjustment?

Once again around the circle...... :shocked: :crackup

I think that probably was the original problem but now, having gone through it myself (and hoping that it is solved), I think that having it set a little too HIGH might be worse because it makes you think you can open the choke sooner than you really should.

I don't usually ride at 60 F. and now find that it takes a LONG time to warm up at that temperature........and a corresponding LONG time to come off the choke.....if the hot idle speed is set properly.

Like you said, one can't be afraid to keep the choke on at least a little, for as long as it takes, to keep the idle speed up until it is thoroughly hot.

I'm glad someone else finally pilled on. My foot was getting tired kicking Alan's butt all by myself. :whistle:

Should be interesting to see what the shop has to say......the second time.

[alanmcorcoran]

Originally Posted by Sarris

Alan, I guess I don't understand why you think there is a problem. The bike is supposed to run like shit while it's warming up.

Well, if that's the case, then, I guess I'm good. The problem is, with the idle set properly when the bike is hot, it will still stall when I come to a stop (in the first seven, eight minutes), even with the choke full on. Plus, if I leave the choke on for the length of the commute, the engine will race like hell at stops. If I drop it to half, where the idle is less crazy, it will probably stall when I come to a stop. Basically, there is no stability to the idle level, regardless of choke position, until the engine is hot.

The only solution for stalling right now, is to bump the idle up so the thing races like crazy at the high end of the wandering idle range. That way, when it drops down precipitously at stop signs and lights, it'll still be high enough that it won't stall. This sort of sucks. Because I mainly use the GZ to commute, and my commute is between 15 and 20 minutes, most of the time I am on the thing it is going to suck.

I have none of these problems with the Strat, nor do I think I had them when the GZ was new (which wasn't that long ago.)

[Sarris]

Just set the idle at 1200 ~ 1300 rpm HOT, and leave it alone. You are more than likely fighting multiple the variables at one time. Bad/old gas, bad/old plug, speck of crud through the carb, humidity, air temp..........who knows? That kind of stuff comes and goes and sometimes is just part of the motorcycle deal. Also, at five or seven minutes down the road, you should probably be at 1/4 choke or less. Maybe you are getting too much gas? Choke stuck partially open? Lube 'er up!

Glad you're enjoying the Strat, and I'm glad you didn't hurt yourself or the bike in your most current whoop-shit. Just so you know you're not the only dumbass in the world, the first week I got my Harley, I backed down my sloping driveway and cut the wheel hard right, then grabbed the front brake to stop it. Not moving fast, mind you. It went over past the point of me returning it upright, so, I took a rag out of the dash bag and placed it under the fairing to concrete contact patch, and set it down easy(??), so no paint damage. I did break off the end of the clutch lever ($55) and embarrassed the crap out of myself (priceless). The bike went over with the tires facing up the sloped driveway and it took three of us to get it upright. Whoop-shit.

[Easy Rider]

Originally Posted by alanmcorcoran

If I drop it to half, where the idle is less crazy, it will probably stall when I come to a stop.

I am going to reserve further comment until it comes back from the shop .........except to ask if you don't see a problem with the statement above ??? :??:

[Easy Rider]

Originally Posted by Easy Rider

I am going to reserve further comment until it comes back from the shop

OK, I lied! :roll:

Got to thinking about this some more and:
What time of the year did you buy your bike?
I think I got mine about June, when the outside temps. were above 70, where it does fine.
I only noticed the problem when the temp. was below ~60.
So, like you, I could also say: It worked fine when it was new.

Sarris, on the other hand, has had his through several seasons and his pronouncement might be the best piece of advice in this whole discussion......including whatever the dealer ends up telling you. :rawk:

[Sarris]

One other note, fuel injected bikes are the mac. My HD, (like your Strat) is computer controlled fool (sic) injection, so no user input is required.

Turn on the key, wait for the light to go off, start up and drive away. The GeeZer is old school carb. It's really hard to make a comparison.

And equally hard to go back without seeing the old girl's warts more in focus.