Signal lights

[Water Warrior 2]

Just pull the wires out of the factory flasher postions (F and G), add a couple female connectors and plug into a 2 prong auto flaher. You are just bypassing the factory flasher and probably saving a bunch of change. Vstrom riders have been doing this very thing and adding electronic flashers so they can use LED's or higher wattage bulbs in their signals.

[blaine]

Originally Posted by Water Warrior

Just pull the wires out of the factory flasher postions (F and G), add a couple female connectors and plug into a 2 prong auto flaher. You are just bypassing the factory flasher and probably saving a bunch of change. Vstrom riders have been doing this very thing and adding electronic flashers so they can use LED's or higher wattage bulbs in their signals.

I was wondering if that would be possible to do without screwing something up.THANKS!!!

:2tup:

[3-D Video]

One of the signature lines from "The Graduate" was, "plastics". They got it all wrong. The line should have been, "dielectric grease".
I used to drive a Land Rover, which I beat the liven' be-Jesus out of for 30 years. It had Lucas electrical components which are legendary, the worst. I drove it everywhere on the American west coast; Canada, Mexico, and the U.S. of A.
Ass deep, driving in sea water; driving through surf, crossing inlets, and hauling boats onto the beach. I put the dielectric goop on switches, contacts, and anything with the word "battery" in it. I idolized it when I was a shipwright. I use it on cameras, computers, and now my Suzuki. Because of that, I expect to never have switch problems. Or ignition problems. Or most anything else electrical… If it don't work, then I trust that something's burned out or broken. Not a problem at the contact: Not grime. Not water... And that can be really helpful, especially if you need to make a quick diagnosis at a bad time in some bad place... And that's Murphy's Law!
I figure whatever the question is, if the answer isn't "brute force and ignorance" (since it usually is), then it's got to be either "dielectric grease", or "tacos"… although, sometimes it's "duct tape".

[Easy Rider]

Originally Posted by 3-D Video

I put the dielectric goop on switches, contacts, and anything with the word "battery" in it. I idolized it when I was a shipwright. I use it on cameras, computers, and now my Suzuki.

A little bit of clarification is needed here, I think.

Di-electric grease is an INSULATOR and is intended to shield electrical CONNECTIONS from moisture without causing a short between nearby conductors.

Your blanket endorsement and experience not withstanding......it should NOT be used on electrical contacts that have light pressure.....like low voltage relay contacts.
It is an insulator and it is grease. It will, over time, accumulate dust, dirt and general grime and actually cause a failure on many types of contact surfaces.

This is not usually a problem with heavy duty or wiping types of contacts as they actually move the grease out of the way to make good contact.

It is most valuable in maritime applications because there the salt water corrosion is more of a hazard to exposed metal contacts than is the long term accumulation of dirt. Those considerations are REVERSED in most inland situations.

Di-electric grease is good stuff when used as it is intended. Just don't get too carried away and use it where it is NOT intended. If a little is good, more is not always better.

[3-D Video]

Originally Posted by Easy Rider

If a little is good, more is not always better.

I usually take the other route; more is always better… Admittedly, I've found that philosophy has not always held true

From personal experience, I have never run into an electrical problem created by dirty contacts caused by, or even in association with, dielectric grease. I'm sure it could happen, 'cause that only makes sense.

At one time I was the chief electrician for the "Pike Place Market Preservation and Development Authority" in Seattle. Yes, right on Puget Sound, and in humid, salty air. That was 30 years ago, another 20 years later (I've kept in touch). My work there is still at the root of trust. Why? Dielectric grease; my "repairs" stand out, they have never failed. Maybe, especially because they were in a salty environment? I'm sure that's true, too.

But, here's the point; I've never witnessed a down-side from using this stuff, and I've used it a lot.
The up side is that by using it you may never have to question your electrical contacts (or at least, it could be your last concern). You may never have to waste time worrying that you've screwed up your contacts when you wash your bike (it's the washing the bike post which prompted me to write this). Wet weather will be less of a threat… The way I see it, It's just a good idea all 'round.

[Easy Rider]

[quote=3-D Video]

Originally Posted by "Easy Rider":3nuxf4dg

If a little is good, more is not always better.

I usually take the other route; more is always better… Admittedly, I've found that philosophy has not always held true

But, here's the point; I've never witnessed a down-side from using this stuff, and I've used it a lot. [/quote:3nuxf4dg]

That kind of WAS the point. No single individual can ever "see it all" so input from others is valuable.....if the source is credible.

I've been an Engineering Technician for about 45 years and riding the same amount of time.
I HAVE see the downside; not often, mind you, but more than once.

If the connection is marginal in the first place, add a little insulating grease and then vibrate a bit and you now have an open (or worse, intermittant) connection where it was perfectly fine before.

Then there are people who get totally carried away. Most 12 V relays don't have a lot of contact pressure; many of them are covered and partially sealed for a very good reason. It doesn't take much gunk on the contacts to start arcing and rapid failure. IF you are contemplating putting di-electric grease on a relay contact where you have to remove a plastic or metal cover to get AT it........then you are about to make a big mistake, most likely.

Many millions of cars, trucks and bikes are running around the planet with litterally BILLIONS of electrical connectors in them......without any di-electric grease......and most of the vehicles will wear out from use before an electrical connection will go bad. (Maritime environments and wires near batteries excluded.)

[fairweatherrider]

Thanks for all the info. I haven't been on line in a few days and I still have the trouble with the switch. Is that flasher easy to get at? I'll check the manual to find it. The switch costs a bit. So then I'll try to fix the switch. Tomorrow's another day...

[blaine]

It is in fuse box under storage compartment.See page 6-29 in manual.

[Water Warrior 2]

Mess with the switch and get the signals to work. Then just follow your ears to the flasher. It should be audible if there are no other noises around.

[fairweatherrider]

WOW, well it looks like I have to flip a coin. Can the switch be disassembled while it's on the handlebars or is it a big process?