Dead new battery

[patrick_777]

If it won't stay running after you HAVE it running, and going a decent speed, it does sound like your stator is shot.

Unfortunately, it's around $300.

http://www.cheapcycleparts.com/products ... tator-assy

[Easy Rider]

Originally Posted by nhcop

Im charging the battery again and going to check it with my meter again.

Once more with feeling............
After the battery is charged, disconnect the charger and let it sit for about an hour.
If the reading at that point is below 12 volts, then the battery is BAD.
If it is above 12, note the reading; that is your reference voltage.

Put it back in the bike; start it up.
Check the voltage again; if it is above your reference voltage noted above AND never goes below that reference figure at any RPM......then your charging system likely is OK, since it is always putting at least a slight charge into the battery.

If the voltage while running goes below your reference, then the charging system is kapoot.

If it does NOT go below your reference, then something else is making the battery lose power......like the battery itself or a loose connection or a partial short.

[blaine]

Originally Posted by nhcop

got a multimeter today. battery was fully charged and it was sitting at around 12.17 Volts Fired up the bike and it jumped to 13.6 Volts. Guess this means the charging system is working..... Now I guess i need to run it till it dies again and check the battery with the meter..

Check now to see if it is charging.I betting you have intermitting loose connection in your headlight bucket causing your bike to only charge sometimes.

[nhcop]

i think my meter might be a bit off too:
I just checked my Jeep to see what it reads
15.6 Volts not running
16.8 Volts Running
Seems high to me

[Easy Rider]

Originally Posted by nhcop

i think my meter might be a bit off too:
I just checked my Jeep to see what it reads
15.6 Volts not running
16.8 Volts Running
Seems high to me

That's the understatement of the month.
That would mean that your bike battery actually has a voltage of about 10.8 V.; NOT GOOD.
You DO have it set for DC, don't you ?? :roll:

[nhcop]

Originally Posted by Easy Rider

That's the understatement of the month.
That would mean that your bike battery actually has a voltage of about 10.8 V.; NOT GOOD.
You DO have it set for DC, don't you ?? :roll:

VDC 20

[mrlmd1]

You said in a previous post that " I got a multimeter today. battery was fully charged and it was sitting at around 12.17 Volts Fired up the bike and it jumped to 13.6 Volts. Guess this means the charging system is working..... Now I guess i need to run it till it dies again and check the battery with the meter.."

You have a bad battery.
Of course the guy in the battery shop wants to blame it on your charging system without even looking at the battery.
Do what I told you before -- Charge it up all the way, bring it in for a load test and see if it's any good.
If you get another battery, just make sure it's charged fully, by you. before you use it.
Simple things first, in order, that's how you go about solving a problem. You never had that battery tested. Your voltmeter is not a load tester.
Or, if you want, go rip the bike apart looking for something else. Until you eliminate the battery as the problem, and you haven't yet, you will be spinning your wheels, not those of your GZ.

[nhcop]

forgot to update this a while back....

Bike is all fixed...

Battery was fine...

New Stator and new rectifier was needed.

Total repair $235.00

Runs super now.

[blaine]

Originally Posted by nhcop

forgot to update this a while back....

Bike is all fixed...

Battery was fine...

New Stator and new rectifier was needed.

Total repair $235.00

Runs super now.

Great.Thanks for the update,I thought it was charging related rather than battery.Good luck.

:rawk: :2tup:

[wyo guy]

Glad to hear you are back on the road. Kinda figured you rectifier was cooked. Your symptoms were identical to mine. Take care