Lights come on but wont start.

[mrlmd1]

Have you checked the starter solenoid (or relay)? That's another thing that can fail. The solenoid may click with low battery voltage, or even with a good battery, but may not pass the high current through it to the starter motor. You can short out the contacts on the solenoid and see if the starter turns over. The solenoid could be bad, the contacts could be dirty. You know your starter is good and the bike runs, so all the safety switches must be fine.
So your problem is either the starter switch, starter relay, wiring somewhere in between those, or a weak battery.
You have to check everything down the line in sequence to find the bad link and not just guess on what to replace next.

[Meme]

Originally Posted by OctaneHalo

I dont believe it is the clutch switch because It wont crank even by running a wire directly too starter without the clutch being pulled in. But the Starter switch today I was cleaning the inside of it will a very small finger nail file and it tried too start a few times. So I am very much leaning toward the problem being the starter switch. I ran a wire from the battery to a push switch and another wire from the push switch to the starter and I used that today and will use it till I can get a new starter switch ordered. But she ran great for 65 mile when I rode back too college today because It is my only vehicle. Again Thanks for all the comments and help Im very interested in keeping this bike and learning everything I can about it.

That certainly sounds like a starter switch then. Did you run the switch you installed to the actual starter or to the starter relay? I'm assuming you mean the starter relay. Running to the starter itself will draw a lot of amps through that switch, and may burn it up if it can't handle that many amps.

[OctaneHalo]

Originally Posted by Meme

That certainly sounds like a starter switch then. Did you run the switch you installed to the actual starter or to the starter relay? I'm assuming you mean the starter relay. Running to the starter itself will draw a lot of amps through that switch, and may burn it up if it can't handle that many amps.

I ran it from battery straight to a switch then straight too starter till I can get a new switch ordered.

[alantf]

Originally Posted by OctaneHalo

I ran it from battery straight to a switch then straight too starter till I can get a new switch ordered.

STOP RIGHT THERE !!!!!! You're putting around 80A through that tiny wire!!!!!! The switch MUST go to the starter relay, not the starter. When you energise the relay via the switch, it closes the heavy duty contacts in the relay, and lets the 80A flow through the thick cable to the starter. Going straight to the starter will cause a massive build up of heat (in the thin starter switch cable) or cable damage, so you're creating one more problem, and possibly creating a danger to yourself.

[mrlmd1]

You can order all the parts you want, but you don't listen to advice, and that is much cheaper.
It could be the starter switch, or it could be the starter relay or solenoid, or the wiring or a dirty or loose connection, like I said before. So, if you don't test the relay and you buy a new switch, and it still doesn't work, what are you going to do next? Buy a new relay? Unless you test everything down the line from battery to starter in a step-wise and systematic fashion, you are just guessing at what to replace next. You already bought and replaced a new starter for no reason, so how much money do you want to waste until you hit on the faulty part totally by accident? If you keep replacing unnecessary parts, it would be much cheaper in the long run to just bring it to a mechanic and let him do it.

Find the starter relay and check the voltage on the 2 low voltage (12V) terminals on the relay when you hit the start button (with the ignition key on, the Run switch on, the clutch in, etc.). If you get 12V there, there is nothing wrong with that starter button or switch. If you hit the start button, that relay should click. If it doesn't, and you have 12V there, then the relay is bad or stuck. If it does click, then measure the voltage at the 2 heavy wire terminals leading out of the relay, you should get 12V when you hit the start button. If you get nothing, then short out the connections on the 2 heavy wires leading to the starter motor (use a pair of pliers or heavy screwdriver, not a light piece of wire). If the bike starts, at least that tells you the relay may be the problem and the wiring from there to the starter motor is intact. If you tap on the relay and then it clicks and starts that may tell you it's no good because it was stuck and needs replacement, and your tapping on the starter motor could have jiggled that loose so it worked once or twice.
If you don't want to fuss with the relay you could check the starter button first by temporarily bypassing it, by replacing it in the line with the other switch you used - jump from the battery through your new switch to the low voltage contacts on the starter relay and not to the starter motor itself. If the bike starts, then, and only then is the starter switch the problem. Right now you are just guessing and wasting your time and money on parts you may not need. Pretty soon, the bike will be brand new if you keep going at it like you are doing.

There is another possibility related to the starter but it no longer applies if you replaced it, and that is the old one could have been stuck with it's drive gear not working, but that's no longer the case because you replaced the starter with a new one and the bike started and ran OK. The problem is confined to either the starter button or the relay - the RUN switch is not the problem because the bike starts and runs when you bypass both the start button and the starter relay by jumping right to the starter. It would not run if that switch were bad.

[alantf]

Originally Posted by mrlmd1

measure the voltage at the 2 heavy wire terminals leading out of the relay, you should get 12V when you hit the start button.

I think you mean the 1 heavy duty wire terminal, to ground (leading to the starter motor)

When you press the starter button with the clutch pulled in etc, there should be a voltage (around 12v) when you put your meter between the heavy terminal going to the starter motor and ground.

[OctaneHalo]

Originally Posted by mrlmd1

You can order all the parts you want, but you don't listen to advice, and that is much cheaper.
It could be the starter switch, or it could be the starter relay or solenoid, or the wiring or a dirty or loose connection, like I said before. So, if you don't test the relay and you buy a new switch, and it still doesn't work, what are you going to do next? Buy a new relay? Unless you test everything down the line from battery to starter in a step-wise and systematic fashion, you are just guessing at what to replace next. You already bought and replaced a new starter for no reason, so how much money do you want to waste until you hit on the faulty part totally by accident? If you keep replacing unnecessary parts, it would be much cheaper in the long run to just bring it to a mechanic and let him do it.

Find the starter relay and check the voltage on the 2 low voltage (12V) terminals on the relay when you hit the start button (with the ignition key on, the Run switch on, the clutch in, etc.). If you get 12V there, there is nothing wrong with that starter button or switch. If you hit the start button, that relay should click. If it doesn't, and you have 12V there, then the relay is bad or stuck. If it does click, then measure the voltage at the 2 heavy wire terminals leading out of the relay, you should get 12V when you hit the start button. If you get nothing, then short out the connections on the 2 heavy wires leading to the starter motor (use a pair of pliers or heavy screwdriver, not a light piece of wire). If the bike starts, at least that tells you the relay may be the problem and the wiring from there to the starter motor is intact. If you tap on the relay and then it clicks and starts that may tell you it's no good because it was stuck and needs replacement, and your tapping on the starter motor could have jiggled that loose so it worked once or twice.
If you don't want to fuss with the relay you could check the starter button first by temporarily bypassing it, by replacing it in the line with the other switch you used - jump from the battery through your new switch to the low voltage contacts on the starter relay and not to the starter motor itself. If the bike starts, then, and only then is the starter switch the problem. Right now you are just guessing and wasting your time and money on parts you may not need. Pretty soon, the bike will be brand new if you keep going at it like you are doing.

There is another possibility related to the starter but it no longer applies if you replaced it, and that is the old one could have been stuck with it's drive gear not working, but that's no longer the case because you replaced the starter with a new one and the bike started and ran OK. The problem is confined to either the starter button or the relay - the RUN switch is not the problem because the bike starts and runs when you bypass both the start button and the starter relay by jumping right to the starter. It would not run if that switch were bad.

I'm sorry it took soo long to reply guys. Been away at college. I did test the battery and down the line had no problems until the start switch. Had 12v going in but hardly anything coming out of it. I lost my job soo at this present time a machanic can not be an option.

[Gz Rider]

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