Power loss

[1Rogue]

Originally Posted by jonathan180iq

If you're gonna do this, don't let the carb intimidate you.
If you don't take off parts that shouldn't be taken off, you'll be fine.

Needless to say, carbs are pretty important in the function of the bike. You don't want to screw something up.

Thanks alot! I wasn't intimidated, but now....

Just kidding, the Serv.Manual is pretty step by step. I would be happy to measure the carb intake if it will help. I know everyone's helped me out a ton <this forum rocks>.
You have to remember I am a newb and I didn't see anything in the service manual carb schematic labeled carb intake (this may be where you roll your eyes and say nevermind). I am guessing you are not referring to where the fuel hose slips over the inlet into the carb so, if you can give me an idea where we are referring to I'll get the measurements to you?

[jonathan180iq]

I appreciate your willingness to help me out. No problem with being a "noob". We've all been there.

The part that I need really isn't see-able on the pic that I'm attaching, but it's the reverse of what I have outlined.

It's, simply put, the part of the carb where the air comes in from the air box.




Like I said, it will be on the reverse of this photo

[Easy Rider]

Originally Posted by 1Rogue

Two questions here. - Is a special tool required to check the float level or is there a way to do it without dishing out cash for a special tool? Also, is breaking down the carb difficult? (Remember your dealing with a newb here.)
I think I am going go for broke. I should be getting the 16t sprocket in today as well as the extra washer to do the shim. Since the tank is off and I'll be going into the carb anyway, I figure I may as well break it down and clean it.

No special tool; just a small ruler. Other posts seems to indicate that you have a shop manual. It should have the spec. and proceedure for setting the float.

Taking the carb. apart is EASY. The hard part is getting it all back together! :roll:

Why are you shimming the slider? Have you already mod'ed the pipes and air cleaner?
That is a "package deal" and the carb mods should NOT be done with stock pipes and air filter.

If you HAVE already done the pipes and filter, then it's likely been running lean. That may be the WHOLE source of the hesitation problem or you may be burning up the plug. For a couple of bucks, I'd put in a new plug while you've got it apart.

There is a simple way to check the fuel level in the bowl (and by implication, the float level) without taking the carb. apart........but by now, you probably won't find that useful.

Keep us posted. :cool:

[1Rogue]

Originally Posted by Easy Rider

Why are you shimming the slider? Have you already mod'ed the pipes and air cleaner?
That is a "package deal" and the carb mods should NOT be done with stock pipes and air filter.

There is a simple way to check the fuel level in the bowl (and by implication, the float level) without taking the carb. apart........but by now, you probably won't find that useful.

:??: OK, I guess I missed something in my reading. My understanding was that the shim was a recomended mod like the sprocket and I figured it was only a couple bucks for an extra washer so why not. I did not catch that it came after the pipes and filter. I have not meddled with those, they are still stock, so I'll put the brakes on that mod.

Originally Posted by Easy Rider

There is a simple way to check the fuel level in the bowl (and by implication, the float level) without taking the carb. apart........but by now, you probably won't find that useful.

Looks like I'm trying to jump the gun all over the place. I pulled the tank and the checked the screens last night and they looked clean and clear, so I assumed the next step would be to clean the carb. All I have done is buy the new o-ring and carb cleaner, so if there is a way to avoid breaking the carb down for now, I'm all ears. But, being that the hesitation is only happening at 45-60mph would checking the bowl while not moving be effective? There is no hesitation at low speeds.

[Easy Rider]

Originally Posted by 1Rogue

But, being that the hesitation is only happening at 45-60mph would checking the bowl while not moving be effective? There is no hesitation at low speeds.

Yea, the fuel level shouldn't vary by much regardless of speed, as long as the line to the tank isn't restricted......which it appears that you have pretty much ruled out.

See that black tube going from the bottom of the carb down toward the pavement? It is a combination overflow (should the float stick open) and manual drain tube. It becomes a drain for the bowl if you loosen the screw just above the top of the hose.

To check the fuel level in the bowl, you need to (temporarily) replace the black hose with one that is the same size but CLEAR. Open the drain screw and let some fuel out in a can, etc. Petcock must be at PRI. (Come to think of it, just draining/flushing the bowl might help if it has accumulated some water). To check the level of fuel in the bowl, loop the clear tube UP past the carb. being careful not to kink it. Open the drain screw and watch the fuel in the tube. The level in the tube will be the same as the level in the bowl. BIKE SHOULD BE UPRIGHT IN NORMAL RIDING POSITION.

So, at this point you ask what is a normal level? I don't know for sure but my guess is that the bowl should be almost full and certainly not less than 1/2 full.

To recap: What year bike? How many miles? Is that 45-60 mph in top gear?
Noticed any hesitation in lower gears at high RPM?
HAVE YOU CHANGED THE PLUG YET?

[Water Warrior 2]

Just a thought from my old memory here. Is the float a hollow metallic design or a solid material than has a given weight ?? Have seen the hollow floats develope a pin hole and partially fill so that they sink lower than specified. Also have seen the solid types get saturated with gas and sink due to their weight. This is probably the opposite of the actual problem but maybe useful for future trouble shooting.

[Gadzooks Mike]

I did the needle shim with the stock pipes and air box. It has improved performance, as it was running too lean before. I didn't need to purchase a washer, either, as the one that's there can simply be moved down in the stack and works fine.

The OTHER mods (air box and drilling out the plug to get at the mixture screw) should be done only with the new exhaust.

At least, that's the way I read it. Anyone know any different? I have been wrong before and will be again - and it's only 8:30am!

[1Rogue]

Originally Posted by Easy Rider

To recap: What year bike? How many miles? Is that 45-60 mph in top gear?
Noticed any hesitation in lower gears at high RPM?
HAVE YOU CHANGED THE PLUG YET?

The bike is a '05. It has about 4500 mi on it. Yes it is 45-60 in top gear. No there is no hesitation in gears 1-3. No have not changed the plug yet. It was changes before I got it and didn't think to worry about it. After reading the post last night I pulled it and figured to go ahead an get a new one.

Do I have to go to the bike shop to get the plug or are they pretty common?

[Easy Rider]

Originally Posted by Gadzooks Mike

I did the needle shim with the stock pipes and air box. It has improved performance, as it was running too lean before.

Experience is the best teacher! I stand corrected.
While it might be beneficial with stock pipes, the shim and idle mixture adjustment are probably REQUIRED after pipe/airbox mod. 'cause then it would probably be running WAY lean.

[Easy Rider]

Originally Posted by 1Rogue

Do I have to go to the bike shop to get the plug or are they pretty common?

If there's an auto parts shop close, try there but I've not had much luck anywhere but a bike shop. Any bike shop (except Harley) will probably do, as most stock a wide variety of plugs.
I would check the book first to be sure to get the right one (don't automatically assume that the one in there is correct).

You've just about got me stumped now. The only thing I have left is a real long shot.
I have seen cases where an arching plug wire or boot will only affect performance at (relatively) high RPM and under load. Do you have a garage or other VERY dark place?
Fire it up and LOOK for corona discharge around the plug and wire.