03-10-2014, 02:48 AM | #21 |
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It is disabled but it may cause problems. I couldn't find my soldering iron so I stripped the wires and tied them in a double knot before sealing them with liquid electrical tape. When I work on the bike tomorrow I will double check that everything is in order with the clutch and the kickstand. I still do not understand that diagram but I will go on a bit of faith and check it all out. I am still absolutely puzzled by the tail light though. Is it possible it was a bad ground?
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03-10-2014, 02:49 AM | #22 |
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And on a side note thanks everyone for the support on this it has left me very confused and I may just need l the help I can get.
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03-10-2014, 04:57 AM | #23 |
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A bad ground could very well have a lot to do with your problems. Chasing one down can be overwhelming without a meter or test light. Double check all the connections you have made and be very sure they make a proper contact. If possible run all ground wires directly to the battery or a junction which has a larger wire that goes to the battery terminal.
I did a junction for ground wires on Lynda's M-50 when installing all the electrical stuff and had just the one heavier wire leading to the battery. It left the battery post uncluttered. For the power feed to all the stuff I had an auxiliary fuse panel with relays to power up heated grips, lights, an air horn and heated gear. One smaller auxiliary wire from the bike's electrical harness tripped all the relays. Even with a lot of planning and diagrams I managed to create a SNAFU. Took me 2 days to figure out why the air horn did not work after the install. Almost crapped my drawers when it finally worked. An air horn in a concrete underground parking area is really really loud up close and personal. Login or Register to Remove Ads |
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03-10-2014, 06:31 AM | #24 |
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You definitely need a multimeter. They're only $10 or so, and you can't fault find without them. The tail light cable runs from the front to the back of the bike, so with the two faults (starting and tail light) it's possible that there's a break in the harness, somewhere. To find this (if it IS the problem) you'll have to remove the seat, tank etc. and do a visual check.
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03-11-2014, 04:02 AM | #25 |
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I will get one ASAP,I think I will run a universal ground wire from the battery along the harness. I ended up having to postpone another day due to halfassed shananagans but I will keep y'all posted with my findings. Who knows maybe someone else may avoid the same pitfalls.
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03-11-2014, 06:34 AM | #26 |
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First step - if you haven't already done so - get a spray of contact cleaner, and blast it into the safety switches. Who knows, you may have two separate faults. If this gets the bike running, that's one fault out of the way. Remember - be methodical. Step by step. Don't just THINK what the fault MAY be. Prove each step as you go along.
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03-11-2014, 02:35 PM | #27 |
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Well I got one part solved, my starter solonoid fell apart when I lifted it up,exposing two metal prongs. Bypassed it and wired straight to battery and I now have a tail light. I am off in search of contact cleaner now, didn't want to use Remington oil. Guess we will see.
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03-11-2014, 03:10 PM | #29 |
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Yep,10 bucks.
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03-11-2014, 08:26 PM | #30 |
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As it turns out,it was the solonoid not powering anything on top of a bad connection to the kickstand. Wired the solonoid to bypass the bad connection and bypassed the kickstand all togather and it jumped to life with plenty of time to spare on this beautiful day!
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