some tips to keep you from dumping the bike.

[mrlmd1]

I misunderstood you - I thought you meant that when you released the back a bit and then reapplied it again a little easier, I thought you meant the clutch. You meant the brake.
But that doesn't change my main point. Everything I've been taught or have read, says in order to make a quick stop, you grab the front brake and pull in the clutch simultaneously, removing power from the rear wheel and judiciously squeeze on the brakes just avoiding a lockup of either wheel. Takes practice. I didn't say to downshift, I said to disengage the clutch - big difference.
Why would you want to fight the engine (powering the bike forward) with the rear brake if you're making a panic stop?
Why would you want to overpower the engine with the rear brake and stall it, locking up the rear wheel and forcing it to skid?
Neither of those make any sense. The stopping distance is a lot shorter if no skidding. The stopping distance is a lot shorter with the clutch disengaged. It takes the same reaction time to pull in both levers.

If there is power to the rear wheel and you lock it up so it skids momentarily in a slide out to the side and the engine has power engaged, if the wheel regains traction, you risk a high side crash. Also makes no sense. This can't happen with the clutch disengaged. When you get out of the skid or slide and you get straightened out, then you can release the clutch again and drive straight ahead.
The only reason you didn't have a high side is because maybe you kept the bike going straight ahead and/or the engine stalled so the rear wheel never regained traction.
I'm done with this thread - anybody else want to chime in?

Everyone says that if you lock the rear and skid that tire, stay on the brake 'till you stop. .Do not release it or a high side may result. Or 'till you at least get the bike back in a perfectly straight line if that's possible, and going slower, before releasing the brake.

We are also talking semantics here - locking up the wheel so that it can't rotate, is one thing. Locking up the wheel so it loses traction and skids is another thing. Either way, what we are talking about, what I am talking about, is the rear tire losing traction and skidding. If you are skidding, stay on the rear brake, keep the clutch pulled in. Do not allow the rear wheel to regain traction with power applied. Very simple.

Maybe you ride differently than everybody else by not pulling in the clutch in a panic stop, but lets talk the same language.

[Easy Rider]

Originally Posted by mrlmd1

Why would you want to fight the engine (powering the bike forward) with the rear brake if you're making a panic stop?
Why would you want to overpower the engine with the rear brake and stall it, locking up the rear wheel and forcing it to skid?

OK, this has a familiar ring to it so I think it's time to COOL IT.

What I am trying to tell you is that, as a practical matter, based on maybe two dozen real life experiences......NEITHER of those two things happens....at least not to ME.......ever.

I find it is better FOR ME to clamp on both brakes as fast and hard as I can and then when the weight shifts forward and the back skids, make an adjustment.

I'm not necessarily recommending that to anybody......except the part about screwing with anything except the brakes. If you can practice enough so that pulling the clutch is automatic, then fine......but if you have to give one electron's THOUGHT to doing it then I don't think it is good.

Maybe some of the difference has to do with my very early riding on what amounted to a dirt bike. In that environment, the back slides around a LOT and you almost never pull in the clutch for anything except to shift.

"Everyone" tells new riders to stay clamped on a rear slide and I have no problem with that. I do not think, however, that much of anybody advocates that to an advanced, skilled rider (and that does NOT mean that I think I qualify as either).

How many panic stops did you say you have made ??

[mrlmd1]

I edited my previous post but it didn't come through.
What I added was a last sentence that said I'm done with this thread. Anyone else want to chime in?

[dannylightning]

so this has turned in to a big disagreement. well im gonna keep doing what im doing, it works for me. when the breaks are on some what hard the bike is rapidly slowing down. so down shifting while rapidly slowing down is not gonna harm your engine or lock up your rear wheel unless you click down a few gears at once instead of one at a time. after both breaks are applied its not hard to (down shift) let the clutch in and out a few times and click your foot down a few times. what else do you got to do while your setting there flying towards a stationary object with both breaks applied. doing something keeps your mind of o crap im gonna crash lol and like i already said your slowing down fast so when you down shift just as fast as your slowing down you get no over reving engine or locking back wheel.

as stated by some one else the rear break is not as good as the gz on my bike. it either slows you down a little bit or goes to full lock witch happened to me the first day i had the bike. and i skidded out for a good 2 or 3 seconds. i almost missed my street and jamed on the breaks hard and what i got was sssskkkkkkiiiiiiidddddddddddd. that rear break is almost worthless.

i think i'm done with this post too. if downshifting is really such a bad idea and it ends up killing me, what ever no big deal. but i aint ever heard of any one dying from downshifting. hell when i was a kid they said eating the skin off a potato gives you cancer now they say its full of vitamins and such crap. i don't know what that has to do with any thing but i put it out there, enjoy!!

[patrick_777]

Are you not even using your front brake?

Go take a BRC class...you seriously sound like you need it.

[BusyWeb]

Originally Posted by dannylightning

1 never try to skid your back tire and jam on the front break instead of the rear breaks haha :tongue:

Ha ha ha, strange.
I made some rear tire lock today.....
I was little hurry to ge my lunch; it's city street in LA; and saw the trafic light Green (actually Left Turn Arrow) wanted pass it.
What the **** situaltion, right just after my throttle up >> Green Light Goes out >>> ha ha ha
I had to stop as quickly as possible.
Usually, I don't use Rear Break to slow down, but today I put down my right foot hard along with Front Brake.
A short skidding, but released rear break right after the skid sound.
Then, I made hard Front Brake(emergency stopping)...

It's very strange, when I met some situation I always show bad habbits on braking or clutching of bike. ^^;

I do use Front Brake 95% for the slowing down from high speed, rarely use rear brake at high speed.
And use Rear Brake only for the Slow Riding situations; like crowded city street at the front of signal, when lane spliting, at the parking lot, or else similar slow running situations.
Don't know if my practice on braking is good or not, but it works for me.....

[alantf]

Originally Posted by dannylightning

the rear break is not as good as the gz on my bike. it either slows you down a little bit or goes to full lock

Is this a design fault from the factory? (in which case, why hasn't anybody sued the hell out of them, following an accident?) or is it something that can (and should) be rectifiable? :??:

[dannylightning]

Originally Posted by patrick_777

Are you not even using your front brake?

Go take a BRC class...you seriously sound like you need it.

damn right i use my front breaks.

[dannylightning]

Originally Posted by alantf

rectifiable? :??:

what do you mean by that. ??

[alantf]

It means "can it be rectified?" i.e. "can it be put right?"

Is it a factory fault, or can it be repaired, to make it work Properly?