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Old 06-03-2014, 10:29 PM   #21
BaronVonMortimer
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Originally Posted by tnastvogel View Post
The normal procedure for testing the starter is to bypass that relay by jumping the terminals and seeing if it turns. Since you're having electrical issues to begin with, you could just jump the starter directly with your battery. First disconnect your battery. With jumper cables, hook power up to the terminal on the top of the starter and then touch the ground to the side of it. If it turns, it's fine. If not, there may be a bad brush in there. I read in an earlier post that you heard a click when you tried to start it, which usually indicates a bad starter.

To test the ignition switch, first disconnect the pigtail and put a bit of dielectric grease on each of the connections, plug it back in and see if it works. If it doesn't, back probe each wire in each key position and make sure it's putting out the proper voltage. Start with the power supply to make sure power is going to the switch. I read in an earlier post that the parking light works, so you're probably getting power to the switch.

By the way, it is in neutral, right?

You sir, are a saint. Thank you for the help. :-)
(Btw, yes, it is in neutral).
I just did the starter bypass and I got nothing.
If the starter is bad, would that keep the neutral light from coming on?
Should I just replace the starter?
I don't have much $ so I am trying to be sure about it before I go and spend $$$ on parts.
Speaking of which, can you recommend a good website to buy a starter from?
I am so greatful for your shared wisdom.



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Old 06-03-2014, 10:57 PM   #22
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WTF

Found an OEM one for $340 and an aftermarket one for $52!
What gives?
That price is sooo tempting...
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Old 06-04-2014, 12:24 PM   #23
Rcarlisle
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If you are getting no lights, then I'm not sure that would indicate a bad starter. I would check other things first. That one random click, says to me that something is amiss in the ignition (key) circuit. THe power is not going anywhere when you turn the key.

How much volatage at rest at battery?

Headlight not coming on either? HAve you tried a new battery or a jump start? for more voltage?

High beam indicator working?

If none of these lights are coming on, I'm thinking ignition switch. Just my thought.

Keep checking before buying new starter.

Good luck
Randy



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Old 06-04-2014, 03:04 PM   #24
BaronVonMortimer
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Thanks Randy.
I have a hunch you're right.
My battery voltage is 12.8 V
No, the highbeams don't come on.
Only the taillight when key is in park position.
I believe I need a special tool to remove the ignition assembly.

What about my starter not clicking when I bypassed the relay?
Hope it isn't both
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Old 06-04-2014, 07:52 PM   #25
raul10141964
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I think this will help, is from the service manual
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Old 06-04-2014, 10:45 PM   #26
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I think this will help, is from the service manual
Thanks Raul.
Just printed out the whole electronics section.
\m/
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Old 06-04-2014, 10:53 PM   #27
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Now the battery is suspect!
It's not holding its voltage. I had it on a tender overnight. It read 12.5v but now it's reading 10.5v. I re-charged it, then measured it shortly afterward. 10.5!
Question is, could it just be the battery? Would the starter test fail if the voltage wasn't at 12? Would my neutral light stop coming on too?
All of this from the battery?
I'm sure it's possible. But I dunno.
???

BTW, this is awesome! The help you guys are giving me.
Awesome forum! Thanks!
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Old 06-04-2014, 10:56 PM   #28
BaronVonMortimer
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FYI-Went to my local auto shop. The ignition assembly without a new gas cap and seat lock is $167.
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Old 06-04-2014, 11:04 PM   #29
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If the battery drop to 10.5V is bad an can create all your problems.
you can test with a jump from a not running car
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Old 06-05-2014, 02:02 AM   #30
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Yes. It sounds like the battery is your problem. You could have it load tested to make sure. If you are going to try a jump start from another vehicle, make sure that the engine of the donor vehicle is switched OFF, otherwise you risk causing damage to the bikes electrical system.
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