Tick tick clunk!

[Goose51683]

Everything is installed, bike is bak together as per te service manual. I'm getting spark. I can smell gas getting to the cylinder, the starter turns over and I can visually see the piston movin in the cylinder. But no turn over. I'm not even hearing it try. I have never checked compression so I'm gonna search that topic next. My fear is the issue is timing even though I went by te book and checked several times to ensure the t mark was lined up with the cam. Is it possible or that to be 180 off or something. Is there any other way to check timing?

Also, I'm not getting a neutral light. I've checked my wiring, everything is still
Connected. I used to be able to have the bike in neutral with the stand down and get it to kick over but I can't do that now. I don't know why that would keep me from tuning over now though.

Any help from anyone would be much appreciated.

[alantf]

Originally Posted by Goose51683

Is it possible or that to be 180 off or something.

I'm no mechanic, but I've heard that this is certainly possible. Apparently, the way to tell, is to pop something such as a drinking straw into the plug hole, to tell when the piston is up.

[blaine]

Originally Posted by alantf

I'm no mechanic, but I've heard that this is certainly possible. Apparently, the way to tell, is to pop something such as a drinking straw into the plug hole, to tell when the piston is up.

Yes That will work.Just make sure your on the compression stroke (valves closed) & should be able to fill pressure blowing out of plug hole.If off 180 degrees valves will be open when piston is up (exhaust stroke)
:cool:

[jonathan180iq]

I agree it feeling like a timing issue. Your compression will be way down because your timing is off so much...hence, no start.

[Goose51683]

Thanks everyone. 3 responses per night is awesome. Ill check this as soon as I get off work and let you all know how it goes.

[Goose51683]

Okay.....I checked the timing. It was exactly as the manual says it should be.
I inspected the valves operating correctly. They appeared to check out.
I checked the carb, both are clean and intact.
When I opened it there was ample fuel inside soon know everything to the tank is fine
I checked out all of the fuses. They were fine.
I didn't do the dollar test yet as the battery died on me. Charging it now.

If anyone has any other ideas at all I would be very interested in hearing them.

I'm just about out of my own ideas. This is a very simple machine and I'm getting a bit frustrated not being able to figure this out.

Thanks

[Goose51683]

Okay I admittedly don't know much about engines but I was thinking. How does the spark plug sync with the engine. Is it possible that I have the timing right in te motor but not between the motor and the plug?

[isaac]

If it's not backfiring out of the intake and exhaust, you're not 180 degrees off with cam timing compared to ignition.

This is simple stuff, probably solved by either

A) You need a new spark plug. Fuel fouling will not show up in a traditional spark test. The plug will fire normally outside the cylinder. Inside the high pressure cylinder it won't fire right. This sometimes can be fixed by just taking a torch to the plug (though sometimes it's too messed up). If you heat it with a torch, install it right away and then crank it's much more likely to fire, but not guaranteed.

B) The carb got installed wrong. This can manifest itself in all sorts of ways, but mostly it'll be at start and idle. The extremely easy way to check this is to first put a new plug in there, then spray starting fluid (or carb cleaner, or brake cleaner, or hold a gas soaked rag over the intake) and crank it. If it fires, then the carb is your problem.

C) There's something else causing over/under fueling. Either you forgot to hook up the vacuum hose between the carb and the fuel valve on the tank, the carb isn't sealed to the engine, or the carb gummed up while it was sitting or the fuel valve in the carb is stuck. Small engines have small carb jets and gum up extremely easily. Again this is something easily ruled out by spraying carb spray and cranking.

D) The cam is off by a tooth one way or the other. But you'd probably get at least a kick while cranking. If it's off by more than a tooth or two it'll probably bend valves.

E) Gas-washed cylinder walls. Metal in cylinder walls absorbs oil. That micrometer-thick slick of oil helps with compression. If you had too much fuel going through the engine, especially after it had sat for a long time, the cylinder walls can get gas-washed and the engine will have less compression than normal. This can be rectified quickly by squirting some oil into the plug hole, installing a new plug (notice how I keep repeating that), spraying carb fluid into the intake and cranking.

If you check all those and it's still not firing, I wouldn't be shocked if the engine was put back together wrong. But if you really put it back together so wrong that it won't fire but somehow still sounds normal while cranking, compresses audibly every other rotation, and doesn't backfire through the intake or exhaust, then I'd say you're a tooth off somewhere.

The only way you could get the ignition wrong but the cam timing right is if you messed with the ignition pickup inside the right side crankcase cover, which I doubt you did. Did you hook up the ignition coil wiring backward? I don't know if that makes a difference but it may have a one-way transistor in there. What is possible is that you got the ignition right but the cam 180 degrees off. If that happened, as I've said, you'd be backfiring out of the intake and exhaust because the plug would fire just as the exhausts were closing and the intakes opening (during overlap).

I had an undiagnosable no-start on mine once that was cured by a new carb slide of all things. Went from barely running to running perfectly with one part, many months of aggravation later.

[mrgz250]

the ticking sound is possable the cam chain been strestch needs to be replaced send me a e mail Ill walk u through it off idle the tick goes away mine went out & 58k If you do the repair use only suzuki parts u will need more than just a chain to do the repair right email me @ suzukix668@yahoo,com

[alantf]

Originally Posted by mrgz250

use only suzuki parts

Do you work for Suzuki? You seem to think that no one else in the world makes parts as good. I agree with waterwarrior. You're starting to p*ss me off, too.