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#21 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Squamish B.C Canada
Posts: 11,409
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It is best to have the engine warmed a bit to thin out the oil so it drains more readily. In your case I would just change it regardless of temp. That said.....when you add the new oil, fill it to the full mark with the bike upright. After you do get it started and running the level may go down. Check it after the bike has been shut off for a couple minutes to see where the actual level is.
Did you get moto specific oil? A regular car oil will not do the bike any good. Shell Rotella(diesel) will work wonderfully and one of the cheapest on the market. It has no mollifiers in it to mess up the clutch plates just like a moto specific oil. Great success in 2 of our bikes. Carry on Iffy. Login or Register to Remove Ads |
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#22 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: College Station, Texas
Posts: 138
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@__@ as I said before, it appears to be ATV oil. I don't even know. Should I try to return it when I go back for the battery?
Last edited by ImaginativeFig; 01-23-2014 at 04:15 PM. |
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#24 |
Super Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Dalton, GA
Posts: 3,996
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#25 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: College Station, Texas
Posts: 138
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I've tried to go back a few times, it's just too complicated now... There was a period of time where I'd sign in every few months to change my avi's clothes and check pm's, but it's probably been over a year since the last time
My bottle looks cooler, but yeah, same words n' shit. Login or Register to Remove Ads |
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#26 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Tenerife (Spain)
Posts: 3,719
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The reason you need the oil warm to change it is just that as the oil gets warm it gets thinner, so it runs out of the drain hole quicker, and more completely.
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By birth an Englishman, by the grace of God a Yorkshireman. |
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#27 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: College Station, Texas
Posts: 138
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Got the battery back, they said it's just fine. I just checked the voltage, it's still at 12.7 V. So... it's not the battery?
I got rid of the old gas and acquired an oil pan and my friend talked me into buying a torque wrench. I almost bought some seafoam, but decided to see if it was cheaper elsewhere. Turns out it's cheaper at Target than O'Reilley's. Looked in to getting a sparkplug socket, since I recieved none of the OEM toolkit, but Action Sports (the nearby parts store/dealer) only had them for $21. Butts. O'Reilleys had a 18mm sparkplug socket for <$5, but they didn't have it in stock and I wasn't sure if it was thin walled enough to fit in our tight space...would it work? Tomorrow I wanna go get an oil filter (is there some specific part I'm looking for or are they pretty standard?), buy some fresh gas, and see if I can get something to extract that derned sparkplug (that doesn't cost $20) Last edited by ImaginativeFig; 01-24-2014 at 10:28 PM. |
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#28 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: P.E.I. Canada
Posts: 3,784
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Quote:
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#29 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Squamish B.C Canada
Posts: 11,409
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Any parts store or small engine repair shop will likely have a HiFlo-HF136 oil in stock. Cheaper than Suzuki but they are the same. Very common in small engines.
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#30 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Tenerife (Spain)
Posts: 3,719
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Now that you know the battery's fine, a quick check on the charging system won't hurt. Once you get the oil into the bike (so you can start it up) put the battery back on the bike. With your voltmeter across the battery terminals, rev up to around 4000 RPM, and you should see the voltage shoot up to over 13 volts.
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By birth an Englishman, by the grace of God a Yorkshireman. |
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Tags |
electrical, oil, problems, troubleshooting, won't start |
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