two finger technique

[primal]

Originally Posted by Easy Rider

Best to pull it ALL the way. It is VERY hard to gauge exactly how much is needed and too much is a LOT better than too little. Muscle memory is important and developing that requires doing it exactly the same way every time.

Or to put it another way.........don't try to get too "cute"; there really is nothing to be gained. :biggrin:

If you know where the friction zone is (via muscle memory) then you don't need to pull all the way in.

[New GZ250]

Originally Posted by kmkindred

Does anybody use just two fingers to operate the clutch and/or brake, and if so, in what situations?

Thanks,

Keith

Nope.
:neener:

[Easy Rider]

Originally Posted by primal

If you know where the friction zone is (via muscle memory) then you don't need to pull all the way in.

There are three things wrong with that statement:

1) Like I said before, what can you possbily gain by pulling the clutch in only part way ??
If you think you MUST do something "different", then practice shifting without the clutch at all.

2) Maybe more importantly, the action of finding the friction zone while engaging the clutch is a different action than trying to find it while dis-engaging it. Muscle "memory" is only obtained after a LOT of repetitions of exactly the same operation; those two are not the same.

3) What kind of feedback do you think you will get to allow you to FIND a "friction zone" while dis-engaging ??? When the clutch starts to slip ???

I'm sorry to disagree but I find the whole concept ridiculous.

[Water Warrior 2]

Pulling the clutch in part way may be acceptable when shifting to just unload the gears but shifting into gear from neutral or into neutral from a gear is a full pull to get as much clutch release as possible. Or just go totally clutchless except for stops and starts but it does take practice and concentration to get it right.

[primal]

Originally Posted by Easy Rider

Quicker and smoother shifting. Clutchless shifting may be acceptable with going up the gearbox, but clutchless downshifts can be dangerous, evidenced by the fact that even pros (without the electronic doodads) will clutch on downshifts.

If you've got a bike whose friction zone is in the first 1/3 of the clutch's range of motion, there's no benefit at all to pulling it all the way in when trying to shift smoothly.

[Easy Rider]

Originally Posted by primal

but clutchless downshifts can be dangerous,

Trying to estimate where the release point is by pulling the lever in only part way can be dangerous to the transmission TOO. :skull:

To each his own, I guess. What you propose would take a LOT of practice to get it right and would, I think, be more prone to an occasional "oops" if your concentration isn't perfect.

Then......what do you do after the clutch cable is re-adjusted OR you climb on another bike with a different release point?

I quit; that's all I got. :cool:

[Sarris]

IMHO, if your "friction zone" is in the last 1/3, you need a clutch adjustment. I believe the manual on page 50 says 15MM +/- off the grip should start engagement.

Also, FYI, by the time you feel the friction, you are already heating up (if not burning) the clutch. Why not just operate the clutch as intended? Are you going to fuck up the clutch just 'cause you want to be lazy??

Your partial engagement argument is pure bullshit.

:whistle: O_o

[Easy Rider]

Originally Posted by Sarris

Your partial engagement argument is pure bullshit.

Don't sugar coat it, Sarris, tell us what you REALLY think!! :shocked:

(Like that has EVER been a problem!!) :biggrin:

[Water Warrior 2]

I have an idea. Let's all agree to politely disagree. I think this is a case of "You ride yours and I'll ride mine". Go with whatever works for you.

[bonehead]

Finally! A referee.