05-28-2015, 12:28 PM | #11 |
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Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 74
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I've had some lengthy discussions with two mechanics I trust alot and I am glad I did. He said 70mph is not going to destroy this motor but rather will kill the mpg's some. He said the rev limit shows 9000 in his manual and 70mph is more than 1500 rpm's away from this point. Both of these guys confirmed that the bigger concern is the stop n go traffic in the afternoon. Going home is when I am less rushed to get there so I am going to take some state highways I've found recently to avoid all the traffic and they are actually only 8 miles further but have been saving my mental sanity in the afternoons LOL.... As far as the higher speeds he basically said it would be nice to change the oil more frequently and NEVER ignore the valve adjustment interval if I run it harder. But I never do that to any of my bikes anyway so that's no issue. I am going to change the oil every 2000 miles, filter every other time and be the one to find out just how much she can take. I can't believe I've already put 3700 miles on it, but then again I put 520 on it last weekend in the mountains of NC :-)
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05-28-2015, 09:32 PM | #12 |
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Join Date: May 2015
Location: Stafford, Texas
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This thread makes me wonder...
I have heard mechanics and old timers tell me the drawbacks of using to many revs and to much throttle on a smaller motor as opposed to less on a bigger. I'm using my bike as a commuter. I've split my 45 miles a day up in order to keep from having the bike non stop at freeway speeds. First few miles are surface streets. Max 40 mph * nice and easy * Then 7 miles between 55 to 60 mph. * I intentionally keep it under 60 * Then another 4 or 5 at about 40 mph. * again. Nice and easy * Then the last 5 or so at 55 to 60 mph. * again. Intentionally no higher than 60 * Heading home is the reverse. Pretty much never at WOT. Is that something this bike can live with for a while? Or am I gunna burn rings and sink valves into seats doin this? |
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05-29-2015, 05:18 AM | #13 | |
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Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Squamish B.C Canada
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Quote:
With regular servicing your bike should last until you are sick of looking at it. Something you can do to extend tire life for commuting is adjust the air pressure. Set both ends about 2 psi over the 2-up figures on the sticker. It will still handle well and brake well. Login or Register to Remove Ads |
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05-29-2015, 08:42 AM | #14 |
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Location: P.E.I. Canada
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I rode my G.Z. for 3 seasons & 35000 Km.When I sold it showed 48000 on the clock.That was in 2010.A woman bought it & it is still running fine today.
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05-29-2015, 08:25 PM | #16 | |
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Join Date: May 2015
Location: Stafford, Texas
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Quote:
But I did know that air cooled engines do have issues with bumper traffic on a hot summer. |
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05-30-2015, 12:38 AM | #17 |
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Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Squamish B.C Canada
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Air cooled bikes have a fine line with cooling and heating issues. The cylinder fins must remove/radiate heat but must also let the engine warm up from a cold start condition.
Never had a problem with my 1988 KDX 200. Large fins to radiate heat during low speed gruelling trails in the warmest of days. My friend had a 1988 Yamaha DT 200 with liquid cooling. It wouldn't cool at low speeds and would overheat, overflow the coolant recovery system and loose all it's coolant. He bought a small fan for it and I installed it for him. Switch for off and on. Simple and effective. The temp guage would still get into the warm zone but amazingly would cool off to operating temp within a minute of idling at the end of a climb. |
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06-02-2015, 10:23 AM | #18 |
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Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Dalton, GA
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Adding a small oil cooler to your bike would not only increase overall oil capacity but it would also help keep some of the temps down... Just a thought.
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06-03-2015, 09:10 AM | #19 |
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Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 74
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I like the idea of that honestly, I wonder how hard this would be to do on the GZ? I'll have to research it.
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06-03-2015, 09:44 AM | #20 | |
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Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Dalton, GA
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Quote:
You can find one specific to the GZs oil fill hole thread, which would be your return line. The bottom feed line, form what I remember is a port that you have to make out of the crankcase. That's the hardest part, from what little I remember. But with the right size hole all of the parts after that are just a matter of mounting and then refilling with extra oil. You'll have to do some more research obviously. But adding oil coolers to air cooled bikes is very common in the bike world so there should be plenty of info for you to find. |
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