Neutral light not working - Page 2

raul10141964 · 06-01-2014, 01:52 PM

If the head light stay off will bi fuse ore ignition switch

BaronVonMortimer · 06-01-2014, 06:25 PM

Thanks! They all checked out okay.

BaronVonMortimer · 06-01-2014, 06:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by alantf

seems like it could possibly be two problems. A blown neutral bulb, and a bad contact on one of the safety switches. Check that the bulb's ok, and blast some contact cleaner into the red cut off switch, clutch switch, and side stand switch. Both these faults are fairly common with the GZ.

Well if the neutral bulb wasn't bad then, it certainly is now. Just crushed it trying to get it out of that little rubber boot!

Water Warrior 2 · 06-01-2014, 06:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BaronVonMortimer

Well if the neutral bulb wasn't bad then, it certainly is now. Just crushed it trying to get it out of that little rubber boot!

At least you no longer need to check out that bulb.

BaronVonMortimer · 06-01-2014, 09:41 PM

Well I replaced the bulb. Then sprayed every single electrical contact again.
I've been turning the key on and off the whole time. Suddenly, one time, the neutral light came on! Being the major dumbass that I am, I tried to start it. Heard a 'click' but then, back to dead.
Forgot that I re-mounted the fuel tank but didn't re-connect the fuel lines.
Doh!
Got me thinking about a random occurance. Not a week before this all started, I noticed that the screws that hold the seat lock to the plastic shell were missing. So it's loose. But after looking at it for a while, I concluded that it's only connecting the lock to a cable that opens the latch.
Could this have anything to do with the electrical problem? Meaning, does the seat lock need to be grounded or functioning properly for the electronics to work?
I realise this has got to be the dumbest question ever posted. Fortunatly for me, I'm a major dumbass, so I'm ok with it.

What say you?

raul10141964 · 06-01-2014, 10:00 PM

remove the head light an check the connection inside

gz4me + · 06-01-2014, 11:26 PM

No the seat lock does not need grounded. Speaking of ground, Did you check the ground from the battery to the frame? It is kind of hard to get to, but most could use a good cleaning and tighten up from time to time. Keep working those switches back and forth. You might have yours running before mine.

BaronVonMortimer · 06-03-2014, 01:01 AM

Ground looks fine.
I think it's either the starter, or the ignition assembly.
Not sure how to narrow it down.

Thanks for all the help!

BaronVonMortimer · 06-03-2014, 01:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by raul10141964

remove the head light an check the connection inside

Checked it all. Again.
Thanks

tnastvogel · 06-03-2014, 09:02 PM

The normal procedure for testing the starter is to bypass that relay by jumping the terminals and seeing if it turns. Since you're having electrical issues to begin with, you could just jump the starter directly with your battery. First disconnect your battery. With jumper cables, hook power up to the terminal on the top of the starter and then touch the ground to the side of it. If it turns, it's fine. If not, there may be a bad brush in there. I read in an earlier post that you heard a click when you tried to start it, which usually indicates a bad starter.

To test the ignition switch, first disconnect the pigtail and put a bit of dielectric grease on each of the connections, plug it back in and see if it works. If it doesn't, back probe each wire in each key position and make sure it's putting out the proper voltage. Start with the power supply to make sure power is going to the switch. I read in an earlier post that the parking light works, so you're probably getting power to the switch.

By the way, it is in neutral, right?

06-01-2014, 01:52 PM	#11
raul10141964 Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Elkhart, Indiana Posts: 369	If the head light stay off will bi fuse ore ignition switch Login or Register to Remove Ads
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06-01-2014, 09:41 PM	#15
BaronVonMortimer Junior Member Join Date: Jul 2013 Location: Ben Lomond, CA Posts: 22	Well I replaced the bulb. Then sprayed every single electrical contact again. I've been turning the key on and off the whole time. Suddenly, one time, the neutral light came on! Being the major dumbass that I am, I tried to start it. Heard a 'click' but then, back to dead. Forgot that I re-mounted the fuel tank but didn't re-connect the fuel lines. Doh! Got me thinking about a random occurance. Not a week before this all started, I noticed that the screws that hold the seat lock to the plastic shell were missing. So it's loose. But after looking at it for a while, I concluded that it's only connecting the lock to a cable that opens the latch. Could this have anything to do with the electrical problem? Meaning, does the seat lock need to be grounded or functioning properly for the electronics to work? I realise this has got to be the dumbest question ever posted. Fortunatly for me, I'm a major dumbass, so I'm ok with it. What say you? Login or Register to Remove Ads
	0

06-01-2014, 11:26 PM	#17
gz4me + Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: Santa Maria, California Posts: 234	Neutral light not working No the seat lock does not need grounded. Speaking of ground, Did you check the ground from the battery to the frame? It is kind of hard to get to, but most could use a good cleaning and tighten up from time to time. Keep working those switches back and forth. You might have yours running before mine.
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06-01-2014, 06:25 PM	#12
BaronVonMortimer Junior Member Join Date: Jul 2013 Location: Ben Lomond, CA Posts: 22	Thanks! They all checked out okay.
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06-01-2014, 10:00 PM	#16
raul10141964 Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Elkhart, Indiana Posts: 369	remove the head light an check the connection inside
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06-03-2014, 01:01 AM	#18
BaronVonMortimer Junior Member Join Date: Jul 2013 Location: Ben Lomond, CA Posts: 22	Ground looks fine. I think it's either the starter, or the ignition assembly. Not sure how to narrow it down. Thanks for all the help!
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06-03-2014, 09:02 PM	#20
tnastvogel Junior Member Join Date: May 2014 Posts: 24	The normal procedure for testing the starter is to bypass that relay by jumping the terminals and seeing if it turns. Since you're having electrical issues to begin with, you could just jump the starter directly with your battery. First disconnect your battery. With jumper cables, hook power up to the terminal on the top of the starter and then touch the ground to the side of it. If it turns, it's fine. If not, there may be a bad brush in there. I read in an earlier post that you heard a click when you tried to start it, which usually indicates a bad starter. To test the ignition switch, first disconnect the pigtail and put a bit of dielectric grease on each of the connections, plug it back in and see if it works. If it doesn't, back probe each wire in each key position and make sure it's putting out the proper voltage. Start with the power supply to make sure power is going to the switch. I read in an earlier post that the parking light works, so you're probably getting power to the switch. By the way, it is in neutral, right?
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