GZ250 barley running

[PimpS]

Well done! I hope that was the case!

[alantf]

Originally Posted by 5th_bike

Download the manual, and look at the wiring diagram.

Trouble is......there's no complete wiring diagram. Plenty for the separate circuits for the different engine functions, but not a one that shows the complete harness.

[ardy3491]

The only thing I'm confused about is if that fuse had anything to do with the engine running so weak

[alantf]

Originally Posted by ardy3491

The only thing I'm confused about is if that fuse had anything to do with the engine running so weak

Doubt it. A fuse is just "ok" or "open circuit". That means that a circuit is 100% or it's totally kaput. Plus, the fuses are just on things like engine starting, lights, & safety circuits. Can't think of any fuse that could open circuit anything to give your symptoms. :??:

[ardy3491]

Well i guess changing out the fuse was just a temporary fix. the fuse blew out again and every time i change it out, it blows out... any ideas???

[Water Warrior 2]

Time to give the wiring a good visual inspection for a wire that is worn through from rubbing, broken or burnt. Check all the connections to see that they are secure and tight. That includes the battery posts too. The headlight housing is a favorite place for wiring to vibrate and wear through. You may want to pay attention to the steering head where the wiring is subject to bending and twisting when the bars are turned. Pull the tank off and check the wiring for pinced sections that might be caused by the tank resting on them. It will take time but there is no real choice. Ground wires as well as power(positive)wires.

[5th_bike]

Originally Posted by Water Warrior

Pull the tank off and check the wiring....

Right on, the one time my fuses kept blowing it was under the tank, where a wire touched the head. The plastic insulation was melted resulting in regular short circuits....

[jonathan180iq]

You have a short.

Poor-man's check:
1. Remove one of the battery leads.
2. Without a key in the ignition, reconnect it.

If there is a spark or arching, you have an issue somewhere.

These kinds of things can be covered up and are never noticeable sometimes are cars. But bikes are much more picky.

Removing the tank to check that part of the harness takes all of 2 minutes.
The other common places where these fray are in the headlight housing and down the sides. Pull the side covers to check there and the headlight is pretty simple too.

[ardy3491]

Ok im planning on removing the tank tomorrow... this is my first bike and this is the first time i take a gas tank off a bike. Should i empty the tank out before removing it??

[Water Warrior 2]

Originally Posted by ardy3491

Ok im planning on removing the tank tomorrow... this is my first bike and this is the first time i take a gas tank off a bike. Should i empty the tank out before removing it??

No need to remove the fuel from the tank.
Remove the 2 lines from the back of the fuel switch on the tank. Be sure it is in the "RUN" position. A few dribbles of gas may be present but that is normal. Remove the bolt/bolts that hold down the rear of the tank. Gently lift the rear of the tank 2 to 4 inches and pull back towards the rear of the bike. While doing so you will have to wiggle the tank side to side a couple inches. One hand at the rear and one hand supporting the front of the tank. The tank will comes loose from it's small rubber saddles/cups as it slides back. It is simple and easy. Just take your time first time round and you will wonder why you ever worried about it.
Check out how the rubber saddles/cups and tank fit together. You will probably see indications where the tank rests on the frame when bolted down. Upon reassembly be sure no wiring or cables of any sort are pinched or crushed when the tank is snugged down.
If you have problems give us a shout.