Yellow Haze Below the Carb? - Page 2

geezer · 06-06-2011, 09:14 PM

oil should not be in the carb no matter what. i wonder what your airfilter looks like. is the hose from the motor to the air box there? look underthe carb at the engine and you will see what im talking about, it connects to the bottom of the airbox. see it? yeah after looking at my bike for a moment my yellow film is getting worse so i think a new gasket is in the bikes future. strange that it isnt leaking though. it would seem that your bike could use alot of maintainance, i would leave no stone unturned ma dude. if you can get your tank off you can work on this bike :lol: here is what i want you to do

check your airfilter. to get to it remove the left side(sitting on bike) cover. this cover is the one that says "gz 250" on it. you will see the airfilter held on by 3 screws. inspect it and make sure it isnt to dirty looking.
remove carb and clean.dude this is so much easier thn you think, with tank off just look at what you need to do,get all the cables ans hoses off, lossen the airbox (bolt is in the same area as the airfilter screws) this will give you a bit more room to get the carb out.
valve adjustment. look at the front and back of engine. see the twocovers held on by 2 10mm bolts each? the front and rear look identical see em? remove em and you will see the rocker arms 2 in each side of motor. someone please post a link for the good man to follow here.
check your oil level. is it where it shold be?might be overfilled resulting in your oil injestion.

blaine · 06-06-2011, 09:22 PM

There is a hose on the bottom of the air box with a plug in it,this is for draining any crud out of the bottom of the air box.Make sure that you replace the plug when finished,or the bike will run like crap.

:cool:

Water Warrior 2 · 06-06-2011, 10:08 PM

The air filter must be removed for inspection. There is a reverse air flow from the inside to the outside. Opposite of a typical car air filter. This is also the reason to NOT modify the airbox as it will actually bypass the filter and feed the carb/engine dirty air.

tcrave · 06-07-2011, 12:23 AM

Thanks for all the great tips guys! It means a lot that you are willing to help! My buddy came over today and I told him about the problem. I mentioned a bit about what you guys said about the air box and all and he said "yep, their pretty well right. lets take a look." He told me to take the seat off and the air filter out and hand him a flashlight. He showed me a few things and told me it was the blow-by.

Basically he said that oil was getting up trough the blow by and getting into the air box. He showed me the seal from the carb to the airbox and same one on the other side and told me it was probably leaking through there a bit too. He said that usually it just burns through, but I had some build-up. I asked him what to do about it and he just said "nothing, its working like it supposed to. take some brake cleaner and spray down the crank cash, DO NOT hit the air box or anything close to it. Just clean off the yellow shit and let it be." He said it was completely normal and that in the older days, the tube would just run down out onto the road and still all over the road, but they had to switch it around and run it back through for environment standards or some shit like that. I asked if i could just take the tube out of the air box, plug the hole, and run the tube down to the ground. He said I probably could, but then it might leave a mess wherever I park it.

So, basically I am just going to drain it and clean it and be happy its nothing severe. I probably put too much oil in it when I changed it. I didn't check it the proper way.

Thanks a bunch! If you have any more suggestions on how to improve, let me know!

Water Warrior 2 · 06-07-2011, 01:53 AM

The oil volume is 1300 cc's without a filter and 1400 cc's with a filter. You may want to drain some out if you really put in a lot more.

**jonathan180iq** · 06-07-2011, 02:23 PM

FWIW, synthetic motor oil will really help with the clunky shifter. Just make sure you get the good stuff.

tcrave · 06-07-2011, 02:38 PM

Yea, I was thinking about draining out some of the oil, but I checked it the proper way the other day and it looked fine. I dunno, maybe I should drain more out, but I don't want to drain too much out either. As nice as it is to not have to mess with a dipstick, I am almost finding dipsticks easier. Also wish this bike had a center stand. It just doesn't seem possible to get a very accurate reading on these gz250's. I do have synthetic...when I bought the bike, the first thing I did was changed the oil...used Mobile 1 Synthetic. Expensive stuff!!

It didn't really seem to change the clunking much, but I didn't ride it much before changing the oil, so I could be wrong. 1st gear is still a bitch...but my buddy said that either the bike doesn't have a 1st gear synchro, or it is out...and it would be a huge pain in the butt to fix it if it is there and is out...so not a whole lot I can do about that.

I'm probably going to be changing the oil again in the near future. I don't know what kind of oil was in there before, but it was pretty dirty...if it was conventional oil, then there will still be residual oil left over, so I think changing it again would be a good idea.

tcrave · 06-07-2011, 02:39 PM

So does anyone have any suggestions for checking the RPM's on these bikes since they don't have a tach?

And thanks again for all the help!!! This forum is GREAT!

**jonathan180iq** · 06-07-2011, 02:41 PM

If this is your first bike, don't expect gears to mesh like they do on cars. Especially when you drop into first while sitting a red light. A good "thunk" is par for the course. At least that way you know that it's in there

I would expect that while you are riding you aren't experiencing the same "thunkiness".

tcrave · 06-07-2011, 02:52 PM

This is my second motorcycle, but I'm still 100% beginner. My first motorcycle was a 1984 honda magna vf700c...way too big for me. I'm 5'9" 165 pounds and was 100% beginner. I didn't have my license, just my permit. First gear was sychro'd on it though, which is why this makes me leery...but everyone tells me its normal.

But yea, I hate that thunk noise...it worries me every time. But, i just need to accept that its normal. Yea, when I am riding, i don't experience the noise. I normally shift to first right before stopping. What kinda gets me though is that if i shift into first before stopping, then after stopped, shift into neutral, then i have to roll the bike a few inches to get it to go back into first again.

06-06-2011, 09:14 PM	#11
geezer Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: dahlonega GA Posts: 563	Re: Yellow Haze Below the Carb? oil should not be in the carb no matter what. i wonder what your airfilter looks like. is the hose from the motor to the air box there? look underthe carb at the engine and you will see what im talking about, it connects to the bottom of the airbox. see it? yeah after looking at my bike for a moment my yellow film is getting worse so i think a new gasket is in the bikes future. strange that it isnt leaking though. it would seem that your bike could use alot of maintainance, i would leave no stone unturned ma dude. if you can get your tank off you can work on this bike :lol: here is what i want you to do check your airfilter. to get to it remove the left side(sitting on bike) cover. this cover is the one that says "gz 250" on it. you will see the airfilter held on by 3 screws. inspect it and make sure it isnt to dirty looking. remove carb and clean.dude this is so much easier thn you think, with tank off just look at what you need to do,get all the cables ans hoses off, lossen the airbox (bolt is in the same area as the airfilter screws) this will give you a bit more room to get the carb out. valve adjustment. look at the front and back of engine. see the twocovers held on by 2 10mm bolts each? the front and rear look identical see em? remove em and you will see the rocker arms 2 in each side of motor. someone please post a link for the good man to follow here. check your oil level. is it where it shold be?might be overfilled resulting in your oil injestion. __________________ 99 gz 250 and a currently dismantled fzr 1000 Login or Register to Remove Ads
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06-06-2011, 09:22 PM	#12
blaine Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: P.E.I. Canada Posts: 3,784	Re: Yellow Haze Below the Carb? There is a hose on the bottom of the air box with a plug in it,this is for draining any crud out of the bottom of the air box.Make sure that you replace the plug when finished,or the bike will run like crap. :cool: __________________ If at first you do succeed, try not to look surprised.
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06-06-2011, 10:08 PM	#13
Water Warrior 2 Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Squamish B.C Canada Posts: 11,409	Re: Yellow Haze Below the Carb? The air filter must be removed for inspection. There is a reverse air flow from the inside to the outside. Opposite of a typical car air filter. This is also the reason to NOT modify the airbox as it will actually bypass the filter and feed the carb/engine dirty air. Login or Register to Remove Ads
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06-07-2011, 12:23 AM	#14
tcrave Member Join Date: May 2011 Location: Cape Girardeau, MO Posts: 90	Re: Yellow Haze Below the Carb? Thanks for all the great tips guys! It means a lot that you are willing to help! My buddy came over today and I told him about the problem. I mentioned a bit about what you guys said about the air box and all and he said "yep, their pretty well right. lets take a look." He told me to take the seat off and the air filter out and hand him a flashlight. He showed me a few things and told me it was the blow-by. Basically he said that oil was getting up trough the blow by and getting into the air box. He showed me the seal from the carb to the airbox and same one on the other side and told me it was probably leaking through there a bit too. He said that usually it just burns through, but I had some build-up. I asked him what to do about it and he just said "nothing, its working like it supposed to. take some brake cleaner and spray down the crank cash, DO NOT hit the air box or anything close to it. Just clean off the yellow shit and let it be." He said it was completely normal and that in the older days, the tube would just run down out onto the road and still all over the road, but they had to switch it around and run it back through for environment standards or some shit like that. I asked if i could just take the tube out of the air box, plug the hole, and run the tube down to the ground. He said I probably could, but then it might leave a mess wherever I park it. So, basically I am just going to drain it and clean it and be happy its nothing severe. I probably put too much oil in it when I changed it. I didn't check it the proper way. Thanks a bunch! If you have any more suggestions on how to improve, let me know!
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06-07-2011, 01:53 AM	#15
Water Warrior 2 Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Squamish B.C Canada Posts: 11,409	Re: Yellow Haze Below the Carb? The oil volume is 1300 cc's without a filter and 1400 cc's with a filter. You may want to drain some out if you really put in a lot more. Login or Register to Remove Ads
	0

06-07-2011, 02:23 PM	#16
jonathan180iq Super Moderator Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Dalton, GA Posts: 3,996	Re: Yellow Haze Below the Carb? FWIW, synthetic motor oil will really help with the clunky shifter. Just make sure you get the good stuff.
	0

06-07-2011, 02:38 PM	#17
tcrave Member Join Date: May 2011 Location: Cape Girardeau, MO Posts: 90	Re: Yellow Haze Below the Carb? Yea, I was thinking about draining out some of the oil, but I checked it the proper way the other day and it looked fine. I dunno, maybe I should drain more out, but I don't want to drain too much out either. As nice as it is to not have to mess with a dipstick, I am almost finding dipsticks easier. Also wish this bike had a center stand. It just doesn't seem possible to get a very accurate reading on these gz250's. I do have synthetic...when I bought the bike, the first thing I did was changed the oil...used Mobile 1 Synthetic. Expensive stuff!! It didn't really seem to change the clunking much, but I didn't ride it much before changing the oil, so I could be wrong. 1st gear is still a bitch...but my buddy said that either the bike doesn't have a 1st gear synchro, or it is out...and it would be a huge pain in the butt to fix it if it is there and is out...so not a whole lot I can do about that. I'm probably going to be changing the oil again in the near future. I don't know what kind of oil was in there before, but it was pretty dirty...if it was conventional oil, then there will still be residual oil left over, so I think changing it again would be a good idea.
	0

06-07-2011, 02:39 PM	#18
tcrave Member Join Date: May 2011 Location: Cape Girardeau, MO Posts: 90	Re: Yellow Haze Below the Carb? So does anyone have any suggestions for checking the RPM's on these bikes since they don't have a tach? And thanks again for all the help!!! This forum is GREAT!
	0

06-07-2011, 02:41 PM	#19
jonathan180iq Super Moderator Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Dalton, GA Posts: 3,996	Re: Yellow Haze Below the Carb? If this is your first bike, don't expect gears to mesh like they do on cars. Especially when you drop into first while sitting a red light. A good "thunk" is par for the course. At least that way you know that it's in there I would expect that while you are riding you aren't experiencing the same "thunkiness".
	0

06-07-2011, 02:52 PM	#20
tcrave Member Join Date: May 2011 Location: Cape Girardeau, MO Posts: 90	Re: Yellow Haze Below the Carb? This is my second motorcycle, but I'm still 100% beginner. My first motorcycle was a 1984 honda magna vf700c...way too big for me. I'm 5'9" 165 pounds and was 100% beginner. I didn't have my license, just my permit. First gear was sychro'd on it though, which is why this makes me leery...but everyone tells me its normal. But yea, I hate that thunk noise...it worries me every time. But, i just need to accept that its normal. Yea, when I am riding, i don't experience the noise. I normally shift to first right before stopping. What kinda gets me though is that if i shift into first before stopping, then after stopped, shift into neutral, then i have to roll the bike a few inches to get it to go back into first again.
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