Just a few questions....

[GZ Jess]

Is it correct that in order to check the plug I will need to remove the gas tank. I am reading the service manual and that is all I can find related to the plugs.

[Viirin]

The tanks not hard to remove - just a couple of bolts after you take the seat off and disconnect the fuel line - shouldn't take more than two minuets, just make sure you have a extension for the wrench you use on the bolts to raise the wrench above the tank or you might end up taking some paint off or denting your tank (like me) if the bolts were on as stiff as mine when i took it off.

Also, you'll need a 14mm socket to get the plug out if i remember correctly - i'm only mentioning this because the first time i only had a small socket-wrench kit that went up to 12mm so i could change the plug even after taking the tank off

[GZ Jess]

Okay thanks for the tank/plug reply. I now have removed the air filter and can not for the life of me figure out how to look inside. One end has the "cup" thing on it and the other is just flat and glued to it! Thanks again!

[Easy Rider]

Originally Posted by GZ Jess

Is it correct that in order to check the plug I will need to remove the gas tank. I am reading the service manual and that is all I can find related to the plugs.

Previous post covers that BUT.......it is highly unlikely that the plug has anything to do with your present starting and fast idle problem. At this point, I think it will be a fair amount of effort expended for no good reason.

When the choke is ON it is closed; when OFF, it is open.....but that's technically not true of modern carbs......so it is really best to use ON and OFF to avoid confusion.

I am pretty sure that one of your first posts stated that you were pushing the lever the wrong way to activate the choke....ie turn it ON. (I could be wrong though.)

[edit] You said: "It will only start if the choke is closed (pushed all the way forward)"
That would mean that you are putting the choke OFF. While some bikes will start with no choke, most won't......and you don't get the benefit of the fast-idle effect that goes along with a partially operated choke either.

[Easy Rider]

Originally Posted by GZ Jess

Okay thanks for the tank/plug reply. I now have removed the air filter and can not for the life of me figure out how to look inside. One end has the "cup" thing on it and the other is just flat and glued to it! Thanks again!

Yea, that's a little tricky. The cup thingy will pop off if you pry with a screwdriver or similar.....and it should then snap back on.....but it really isn't an important part; if it doesn't go back on it's no biggie.

The important part is that it is in place, has no holes in it and doesn't appear to be saturated with gas or oil.........or have a TON of dirt inside.

While you are in that vacinity, inspect the rubber boots from air box to carb and from carb to engine. I found mine so loose that I could grasp the carb and turn it without much effort at all.
Also look INTO the air box and inspect for cracks, holes, etc.

This would also be a good time to uncap the airbox drain hose and drain it out; what comes out might be an ugly mess of oil and water. Have something ready to catch it. The cap MUST go back on; it won't run right without it.

[GZ250]

FOR GZ250:

Spark plug: to change or inspect the spark plug you do not need to remove the gas tank. above the spark plug there is a metal piece that has to be removed to expose the plug.

Choke: while sitting on the bike if you pull the choke lever towards you it is ON, choke activated, if you push back it is OFF. when the trouble started with my choke it seemed to be working (the level part only) going back and forth but the cable inside actually was not moving much. i experienced a lot of gas smell in my air filter and the local guy atthe dealership told me to replace the cable. oiling did not work in my case.

nothing is absolute. you can have a very old plug, air filter or anything else and your bike still be working perfect. But when some trouble stars always start with the easy and DIY stuff.

[alantf]

Originally Posted by GZ250

FOR GZ250:

to change or inspect the spark plug you do not need to remove the gas tank.

:plus1:

[blaine]

Originally Posted by Viirin

Also, you'll need a 14mm socket to get the plug out if i remember correctly - i'm only mentioning this because the first time i only had a small socket-wrench kit that went up to 12mm so i could change the plug even after taking the tank off

N.G.K. sparkplug takes a 18mm socket.

[blaine]

Originally Posted by GZ Jess

Is it correct that in order to check the plug I will need to remove the gas tank. I am reading the service manual and that is all I can find related to the plugs.

You only need to remove the left side chrome cover to gain access to the spark plug. :2tup:

[patrick_777]

Look in the How-To forum for changing the sparkplug.