The First 100...a Newbie's Tale (now 200....now 300)

[ruxpin76]

Now up to 200+ miles after a couple nice days of riding. Inadvertant first today -- dragged a peg on a sharp bottom of hill righthander! Just a little touch, but still enough to make me glad for peg pivots...

The rear suspension was set at 1 notch above "softest", so I've now set it at 1 notch below "hardest" to help keep the rear up. (IIRC, that's +2 notches from the original setting.) I presume that y'all set the rear up harder if you're carrying a passenger or decent cargo load anyhow?

2 other issues...one is an increasingly high idle? Don't know if it's sucking air somewhere or the head is rewarping? I should hope not re: the head... I did have it briefly on the highway today, 6-7 mi. at 65-70.

Also get occasional clutch "slip", if I mess the shift up by not closing the throttle fully... don't know the clutch plate status as I've only had the bike a month or so, but I presume that's a cheap fix, if it's the issue.

Otherwise, got in 5 rides in 6 days....can't complain! I should've gotten a bike 10 yrs ago! Of course the wisdom I've gained in the last 10 have probably made me a better/safer rider, so perhaps this is for the best... Keep the rubber side down,

~Ted

[Easy Rider]

Originally Posted by ruxpin76

2 other issues...one is an increasingly high idle?

Also get occasional clutch "slip", if I mess the shift up by not closing the throttle fully...

The increasingly high idle might be a GOOD sign.

At any rate, the idle stop screw should be set when the bike is thoroughly warmed up (HOT). That may take 30 minutes or more of riding......or when the idle is at it's highest.

After that, however, you will no doubt find out that you MUST keep the choke on for a little while (10 minutes or 10 miles) or else the idle will drop too low and it will die. Normally you would decrease the choke a tiny bit at a time until it will hold proper idle with it completely OFF.

As for the clutch slip, a clutch "job" isn't a really big deal but it might cost you $2-300 if you pay a shop to do it. First, however, check to be sure you have a tiny bit of slack in the clutch cable. The thickness of a nickel at the "pinch point" of the lever is about right. Too little slack can cause the clutch to slip under stress; too much can cause hard shifting due to drag.

[ruxpin76]

UPDATE: Now just over 300 miles...replaced oil today with Pennzoil straight organic 10W40, 1300ml. Made all the difference in the world -- shifts wonderfully now, not notchy. Although I can't quite tell if there's just the tiniest bit of clutch slippage. I've don't some full-throttle accellerations (chopping throttle to shift and clutching) and there's doesn't seem to be an RPM "slip", like a loose clutch would have. We'll see. Try again on another day with less wind and less cagers around.

Otherwise, rode home at night, noticed lights on low-beam "flickered". Never went off, didn't quite flicker as bright as when hi-beams are one. Wonder if it's a "coil" issue with uneven amperage to the lights? Anyone else see this happen? I figure it could be a loose headlamp element, but who knows. While stopped I jiggled the wires around there, no flickering. Stumped for now...

Keep the rubber side down,
~Ted

[blaine]

Sounds like a bulb ready to blow out.The proper bulb is a H.4. Halagon.

[Easy Rider]

Originally Posted by ruxpin76

Wonder if it's a "coil" issue with uneven amperage to the lights?

It could just be the regulator cutting in and out. Sometimes that produces a slight flicker and is perfectly normal.

"Coil" ???

[zenbutcher]

Regarding the lights... I've never had them "flicker" on me, but I was having battery issues for the longest time. Then, I switched from HI to LOW beams for an entire 2-3 hour ride - it made all the difference in the world. I never have battery issues anymore. I assume the HI beam just put too large a load on my battery for it to hold any decent charge... weird.

[blaine]

Originally Posted by zenbutcher

Regarding the lights... I've never had them "flicker" on me, but I was having battery issues for the longest time. Then, I switched from HI to LOW beams for an entire 2-3 hour ride - it made all the difference in the world. I never have battery issues anymore. I assume the HI beam just put too large a load on my battery for it to hold any decent charge... weird.

Something is not right.You have a bad battery,or not charging properly,or wrong bulb in headlight.Headlight bulb should be a 55-60 watt.I ride with hi-beam on all the time,plus I have a set of driving lights.I never have any starting Issues.

[Water Warrior 2]

I think I would toss the bulb and try a Silver Star. Sounds like the bulb you have is going South and affecting the entire system somehow.

[ruxpin76]

Will try it out. I think it was a weak battery -- I got it home and the next day ran the battery down to the point of not cranking after 4-5x trying to start w/o the carby vacuum attached. (I had removed the carby and forgot to reattach hose....) I charged the battery with a Battery Tender for a day and it was perfectly fine on my ride tonight. The battery is of unknown age, so it'll be replaced before too long.

First night ride tonight, from twilight to almost dark. Enjoyed the cooler air, and no cagers posed a problem. I DO have to get a lighter colored jacket and helmet though (black on both counts at the moment, though the helmet has some lighter painted spots...)

Thanks for the suggestions -- I'll check it out on the headlamp replacement.

[blaine]

When you get a new battery make sure it is"FULLY" charged before installing it in the bike.