Rusted exhaust bolts

[mrlmd1]

Isn't this one of those things that, if it ain't broke, don't fix it? If nothing is leaking and all that's bad is you don't like how it looks, then don't look at it. You can ask the shop about it the next time you have to go in there for something else, otherwise there are probably more important things in your life to think about.

The idea of heating something up with a torch is to have one part or metal expand/contract at a different rate than the other, to break apart the rust bond, a sort of welding between the 2 objects. When the engine is run, if both of the metals are of the same composition, the bond may not break as aren't both of the metals expanding and contracting together at the same rate? This is different than trying to heat up just the bolt with a torch. Or having a stainless bolt screwed into aluminum. I would still suggest not to be concerned about a cosmetic problem and concentrate on making it look nice if it really bothers you. If you have a leak, or if the bolt head snaps off (very unlikely), then the shop can get it out.

I wasn't recommending the rust converter stuff (phosphoric acid) to try and get the bolts loose, just to coat the heads of the bolts so they wouldn't rust anymore. This is not a coating, it is a chemical reaction that changes the surface and shouldn't be affected by engine heat. Then, if you don't like the blackish apprearance of the bolts, a little bit of high temp paint could solve the problem if you liked that look better.

[Easy Rider]

Originally Posted by patrick_777

Thanks for making us all once again look stupid, Easy. :redflip:

You ARE a great straight man.........but I will resist the temptation.......this time.

I will however share a little secret with you; don't tell anybody else, OK ?

Very often those folks who can tell you with some convincing authority what NOT to do are not really that smart. They just have a better than average memory............for their own numerous stupid mistakes over a LOT of years !! :shocked: :biggrin:

[Easy Rider]

Originally Posted by mrlmd1

Isn't this one of those things that, if it ain't broke, don't fix it? If nothing is leaking and all that's bad is you don't like how it looks, then don't look at it.

Priceless!! :2tup: :crackup

Originally Posted by mrlmd1

I wasn't recommending the rust converter stuff (phosphoric acid) to try and get the bolts loose, just to coat the heads of the bolts so they wouldn't rust anymore. This is not a coating, it is a chemical reaction that changes the surface and shouldn't be affected by engine heat.

OK, once more:

The "stuff" with phosphoric acid is naval jelly and is intended to remove the rust.....ONLY. It MUST be washed off after use......unless you want an even bigger mess later.

The other "stuff" that supposedly reacts with the remaining rust is NOT based on phosphoric acid and it is called something like rust reformer and turns black.

These are two different products that do two different things. Look it up if you feel you must.

I have used the reformer stuff in the past and am not convinced that it really reacts with anything. At any rate, the resulting black stuff is NOT resistant to heat OR weather (water) and must be covered with paint for any kind of a permanent solution.......and I didn't like the results even then.

In most cases, I think one can achieve better results with scrape, sand and a good rust resistant paint......several coats.

[mr. softie]

The exhaust bolts are obviously steel, and I think they are hardened. They should back out with surprising ease. The head is aluminum. The bolts most likely have a surface rust on the exposed portion, and will rust again soon after you clean them. I would not try to tighten them up any more. Use a tight fitting 1/4" drive 6 point socket (8mm)? and an extension. Left is loosen. Have a pair of exhaust gaskets handy because the old ones are probably crap. Remove the old gaskets and install the new ones. Put some anti-seize compound on the bolt threads and tighten to specs. Part of the regular maintainance is retightening these bolts, as the gaskets compress over time. See the manual.

[Easy Rider]

Originally Posted by mr. softie

Part of the regular maintainance is retightening these bolts, as the gaskets compress over time. See the manual.

Yes.....maybe. I think that it would be more appropriate to say that the routine maint. is to "check the bolts to be sure they aren't loose".

IF there is no sign of the pipes being loose AND no sign of exhaust leak AND they don't turn with light to moderate torque applied..........I certainly would NOT insist on "retightening".

Another case of "ain't broke, don't fix it" !!

[Canuck]

Well thanks guys,

It's not the aesthetics I'm particularly concerned about, but more the function and reasoning why the manual asks me to tighten every once and awhile.

I ride alot of highway miles and also around the city, Routine maintenance is key in prevention and treatment of immediate or impending problems..

I just would want a strong solid set of new bolts to put on the exhaust to prevent any further damage the rusting bolts might cause.

So after reviewing all that your guys have said(especially Easy Rider)I think running the bike until it reaches close to max temp. put some penetrating lubrication, give it a light turn to the left and hope for the best.

My one concern is If they DO break... how would the shop get out snapped bolt shafts?

[Easy Rider]

Originally Posted by Canuck

So after reviewing all that your guys have said(especially Easy Rider)I think running the bike until it reaches close to max temp. put some penetrating lubrication, give it a light turn to the left and hope for the best.

My one concern is If they DO break... how would the shop get out snapped bolt shafts?

OK, so you were listening......but not closely enough apparently. :roll:

YOU SHOULD NOT TRY TO REMOVE AND REPLACE THOSE BOLTS. They are (likely) rusting ONLY on the part that is exposed to the air and water and are NOT rusting down in the threads where it really counts.......and even if they ARE, it would take about 100 years before they rust enough to affect their strength.

As for removing broken bolts in a head, it depends on how old they are and why they broke. Hopefully using real penetrating oil, a little heat and something like visegrips they can turn the bolt out. If not, then you cut it off, drill it out and re-tap or put in a heli-coil.

A real shop doesn't usually have that problem as they have the skills and tools to get them out without breaking.

IF IT AIN'T BROKE, DON'T F*** WITH IT!!

Did you go back and look for the thread about the rusted head bolts ?? If not you really should.

I quit.

[Canuck]

Thanks for your patience "Easy" Rider

[Water Warrior 2]

Here's a thought. The surface rust is probably preventing the bolts from coming loose and if there is no gasket failure or exhaust leak there is no problem. Keep it simple, the rusty appearance could be a good thing.

[Easy Rider]

Originally Posted by Water Warrior

Here's a thought. The surface rust is probably preventing the bolts from coming loose and if there is no gasket failure or exhaust leak there is no problem. Keep it simple, the rusty appearance could be a good thing.

:plus1:

And one final last point: I think the owners manual shows an "I" in the bolts and fasteners item, which means INSPECT and "adjust" as necessary. If the thing secured by the bolt is not loose, and the bolt itself is not loose, I'd say it passed inspection and no "adjustment" is necessary. :cool: