Warmed up but won't start? - Page 2

mainlinecoffee · 03-08-2014, 08:10 PM

The batt is good. I can turn starter motor by jumping wires on solonoid with a screwdriver. The headlight has been wired straight to the batt and I ditched turn signals. The brake light is my only means of checking current in harness. I will check grounds and main hot wires tomorrow.

alantf · 03-09-2014, 06:40 AM

7.jpg From this drawing, it seems likely that the problem is one of the safety switches.

mainlinecoffee · 03-09-2014, 11:33 AM

With the tail light not coming on I am questioning weather or not any part of it is getting power. I'm going to run down it with a circuit tester

alantf · 03-09-2014, 12:29 PM

If you can start the bike by shorting out the solenoid, then it DEFINITELY points to a fault in the starter circuit. Most likely it's a safety switch - with my first thought being the clutch switch. Try blasting some contact cleaner in the red switch, clutch switch, and sidestand switch. You might be pleasantly surprised by the results. As for lights not working, have you checked that the bulb hasn't blown. I'll repeat myself, one last time - If you can start up by shorting the solenoid, the fault MUST be in the starter circuit (or the solenoid coil itself).

mainlinecoffee · 03-09-2014, 04:03 PM

Well I don't really understand how that works but I will take your word for it. I will give it a through cleaning tomorrow. Does it seem odd that you can jump the solonoid and crank the bike over when the bike is off? It's making me curious as to weather or not the ignition is working too.

mainlinecoffee · 03-09-2014, 04:06 PM

If the bike was running and the ignition fuse fell out but the bike didn't die instantly than where was it getting power?

alantf · 03-09-2014, 04:28 PM

As you can see from the drawing, the ignition circuit is for STARTING the bike. To try and simplify it for you, once it's running, the alternator circuit takes over, and runs the bike. Again, from the drawing, when you short out the solenoid. you're putting power directly to the starter motor, without the circuit that pulls in the solenoid coil (and closes the solenoid) being used. That's why it's GOT to be a fault in the starter circuit (possibly a safety switch fault) stopping the solenoid coil (which closes the solenoid main contact) pulling in. All the solenoid is, is a coil which, when energised by the starter circuit, closes the heavy duty contact, and puts around 80A to the starter.

Water Warrior 2 · 03-09-2014, 05:31 PM

Totally agree with Alantf. It is just a dirty or corroded switch. You just need to track it down. Worst case scenario is a new/used switch from ebay.

mainlinecoffee · 03-09-2014, 10:15 PM

The clutch is long gone, I use a vice grip attached to the clutch knob to disengage it. I will pull it all apart and check the wiring though. What about the switch in the kick stand? And I don't mean to run in circles but why would I no longer have a tail light? I checked the bulb the fuse and all the connections.

Water Warrior 2 · 03-10-2014, 01:15 AM

"The clutch is long gone." Did you make sure the clutch safety switch is disabled and not subject to causing a problem?

03-08-2014, 08:10 PM	#11
mainlinecoffee Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2013 Location: lexington ky Posts: 223	The batt is good. I can turn starter motor by jumping wires on solonoid with a screwdriver. The headlight has been wired straight to the batt and I ditched turn signals. The brake light is my only means of checking current in harness. I will check grounds and main hot wires tomorrow. Login or Register to Remove Ads
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03-09-2014, 11:33 AM	#13
mainlinecoffee Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2013 Location: lexington ky Posts: 223	With the tail light not coming on I am questioning weather or not any part of it is getting power. I'm going to run down it with a circuit tester Login or Register to Remove Ads
	0

03-09-2014, 12:29 PM	#14
alantf Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Tenerife (Spain) Posts: 3,719	If you can start the bike by shorting out the solenoid, then it DEFINITELY points to a fault in the starter circuit. Most likely it's a safety switch - with my first thought being the clutch switch. Try blasting some contact cleaner in the red switch, clutch switch, and sidestand switch. You might be pleasantly surprised by the results. As for lights not working, have you checked that the bulb hasn't blown. I'll repeat myself, one last time - If you can start up by shorting the solenoid, the fault MUST be in the starter circuit (or the solenoid coil itself). __________________ By birth an Englishman, by the grace of God a Yorkshireman.
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03-09-2014, 04:03 PM	#15
mainlinecoffee Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2013 Location: lexington ky Posts: 223	Well I don't really understand how that works but I will take your word for it. I will give it a through cleaning tomorrow. Does it seem odd that you can jump the solonoid and crank the bike over when the bike is off? It's making me curious as to weather or not the ignition is working too. Login or Register to Remove Ads
	0

03-09-2014, 04:28 PM	#17
alantf Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Tenerife (Spain) Posts: 3,719	As you can see from the drawing, the ignition circuit is for STARTING the bike. To try and simplify it for you, once it's running, the alternator circuit takes over, and runs the bike. Again, from the drawing, when you short out the solenoid. you're putting power directly to the starter motor, without the circuit that pulls in the solenoid coil (and closes the solenoid) being used. That's why it's GOT to be a fault in the starter circuit (possibly a safety switch fault) stopping the solenoid coil (which closes the solenoid main contact) pulling in. All the solenoid is, is a coil which, when energised by the starter circuit, closes the heavy duty contact, and puts around 80A to the starter. __________________ By birth an Englishman, by the grace of God a Yorkshireman.
	0

03-09-2014, 04:06 PM	#16
mainlinecoffee Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2013 Location: lexington ky Posts: 223	If the bike was running and the ignition fuse fell out but the bike didn't die instantly than where was it getting power?
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03-09-2014, 05:31 PM	#18
Water Warrior 2 Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Squamish B.C Canada Posts: 11,409	Totally agree with Alantf. It is just a dirty or corroded switch. You just need to track it down. Worst case scenario is a new/used switch from ebay.
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03-09-2014, 10:15 PM	#19
mainlinecoffee Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2013 Location: lexington ky Posts: 223	The clutch is long gone, I use a vice grip attached to the clutch knob to disengage it. I will pull it all apart and check the wiring though. What about the switch in the kick stand? And I don't mean to run in circles but why would I no longer have a tail light? I checked the bulb the fuse and all the connections.
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03-10-2014, 01:15 AM	#20
Water Warrior 2 Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Squamish B.C Canada Posts: 11,409	"The clutch is long gone." Did you make sure the clutch safety switch is disabled and not subject to causing a problem?
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