Add a Tachometer

[Easy Rider]

Originally Posted by Quimrider

Interesting, I've never heard that. A good thing to know when I have a weak battery and it won't start.

I found out the hard way.......twice before I got a new battery!

It has since been confirmed by others.

Them little suckers are expensive.......~ $85.

[Dupo]

Quim, very good write up. Looks great and very easy to understand.

Good Job!

[Badbob]

[quote=Easy Rider]

Originally Posted by Quimrider

Interesting, I've never heard that. A good thing to know when I have a weak battery and it won't start.

I found out the hard way.......twice before I got a new battery!

It has since been confirmed by others.

Them little suckers are expensive.......~ $85. [/quote:19od4bto]

Jumper cables. I got mine. Used them once already.

Tiny little things.

[trykemike]

hey quimrider thanks again for the howto. I installed the tach last night. I made a modification to the original instructions.

1 - I took + 12 v from the orange horn wire after checking it with a volt meter it gave + 12 v when the key is switched on

2 - the connectors for the coil were encased in hard plastic which I did not want to break and the leads were very short so I threaded the wires through the ends of the connectors and folded them over then inserted the connector back onto the blade on the coil.

3 - I turned on the key the tach flexed the tach light came on I started the bike it reved to 4000 then quit after 30 secs. It would not start after several attempts.

4 - I took off the tank again and noticed a small black hose behind the main fuel line. I connected it to the nipple on the carb.
( vacuum line )

5 - after remounting the tank the bike fired up then I took it for a spin.

6 - the tach is smooth even at 1000 rpm

[Easy Rider]

Originally Posted by trykemike

1 - I took + 12 v from the orange horn wire after checking it with a volt meter it gave + 12 v when the key is switched on

6 - the tach is smooth even at 1000 rpm

Good job!

I wonder what the tach needle will do when you activate the horn ??? :roll:

[trykemike]

hey easyrider I tested the horn wire with a voltmeter and pressed the horn button no needle deflection was evident. I have tested the tach with the horn no problem.

[Easy Rider]

Originally Posted by trykemike

hey easyrider I tested the horn wire with a voltmeter and pressed the horn button no needle deflection was evident. I have tested the tach with the horn no problem.

Check. I wouldn't expect to see a deflection when set to measure DC. Just for curiosity, try setting your meter for AC and hit the button once. Them cheap horns tend to make "waves" on the feed line.
Anyhow, good that it works without interference.

[trykemike]

Hey quimrider since adding the tach I have on several occasions been able to pull 7500-7600 rpm with indicated speed of 125 kph. I usually run out of road space to get past this speed. Have you ever reached 8000 rpm in 5 th gear ?

[Quimrider]

before switching to the 16t front sprocket I could hit 80mph which = 8000RPM going down hill or with a decent tail wind. I've never been able to get past this. If you browse over to the 16t sprocket thread, I don't remember who but someone put up a nice graph of rpm vs speed with both the 15 and 16t sprocket. Since adding the 16t sprocket, the fasted I could go was 79mph. I don't remember what RPM's that was but the graph should give you an idea. If you're considering the 16t front sprocket. It makes riding in town better since it spreads the gears out a bit and on the highway the engine doesn't sound so angry. The only down side is that is may have knocked a couple mph off my top speed as it takes longer to get up to 75mph and very difficult if not impossible to go faster. Although 4th is usable up to about 65 for going up hill. and if you don't like it, you're only out about 18 bucks and another 20 minutes to switch back to the old sprocket.

[zepfan1232]

What RPM does the engine redline at?