04-19-2012, 06:30 PM | #11 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 296
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Re: Newbie Questions
Ok, those are all very good points, and I didn't think about the recaps. I try not to spend any time next to them, and when I say behind them, I'm certainly not illegally close, because there are CHP everywhere.
I do like to stay about 2 1/2 to 3 seconds behind them, enough so that I can always see one of their mirrors, and so by definition they can see me, because I don't want the drivers to think that I'm drafting on their bumpers. That said, you're still right. Visibility *is* reduced. I'll ponder this next time and see how the "distance behind" vs "visibility" vs "wind protection" variables factor out. Login or Register to Remove Ads |
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04-19-2012, 09:37 PM | #12 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Squamish B.C Canada
Posts: 11,409
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Re: Newbie Questions
Another thing about big rigs. Every so often in a parking lot a rock will become wedged between the dual tires. It will stay there until it is flung out by centrifugal force. That rock is like a cannonball headed your way. I have experienced this and believe me that is a pure pucker moment to remember. I was in a pick up at the time and it took the hit but it could easily have come through the windshield and killed me.
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05-03-2012, 12:38 AM | #13 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 203
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Re: Newbie Questions
Even in city traffic it does not pay to follow behind a big rig because they limit your ability to see and be seen. Big rigs often run red lights and if you are following them you will not see the red until it is too late to stop. That is bad enough but if the cross traffic races off the line to get through the intersection they may not see you running the light behind the truck and only disaster can follow. If I find myself a behind a big rig I usually give them a lot of room even when I am in a 4-wheeler.
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06-12-2013, 02:53 AM | #14 |
Junior Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: California
Posts: 10
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Re: Newbie Questions
Hey there. So today was my first "real ride" as far as I'm concerned. I was on main streets the whole time and not just riding in my neighbourhood. I do have a question regarding making left hand turns and down shiftin. For example, I was traveling on a straight path at 45 mph. Ahead of me was an intersection with a dounle lane left hand turn and the light was green. Now, I applied brakes well before the turn and down shifted into 3rd from 4th. My turn was horrible! Way too wide; I wound up in the bicycle lane. So the question is how far down should I down shift to make a good turn and should I do the same on freeways? My other question is what gear should I be in when driving around town in normal traffic and at whay speeds should I be switching gears?
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06-12-2013, 10:51 AM | #15 |
Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Joliet, IL
Posts: 64
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Re: Newbie Questions
I just got my bike and am having the same wide turn fun hedgehog. I found a link to 'the cornering bible' on youtube someplace in the forum here. I'd suggest a look, its a good reminder of some basics. I found that I had forgotten WHAT coutnerstearing was (scary, I know) and I wasn't looking close enough to where I wanted to end up after my turn. Good luck!
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06-12-2013, 03:44 PM | #16 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Crawfordville, Florida
Posts: 2,853
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Re: Newbie Questions
You have to remember, the bike will go where you look.
Look into the turn, around the turn, turn your head and your gaze to where you want to go and then the bike will follow. If you are looking at some other obstacle, like with target fixation, that's where the bike will go and you will hit it. And if you are turning wide, you have to turn (or press on) the bar more to lean the bike farther over to get through the turn. Do NOT hit the brake, just lean and turn more. If you have to hit the brake for whatever reason in a turn, you have to straighten out the bars and steer straight ahead, otherwise the bike WILL go down. Practice, practice, then practice some more, that's the only way you will learn after reading all about the theory of riding. And get Hough's book, Proficient Motorcycling, and More Proficient Motorcycling. Also, Total Control by Parks and A Twist of the Wrist by Cole. You can never read or learn too much. |
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06-12-2013, 10:35 PM | #17 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Elkhart, Indiana
Posts: 369
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Re: Newbie Questions
The gz come from factory tune for emitions and that make the engine to run hot and lost power.
you can impruve the cruse speed with som tuning i have 16 t 140 main jet 2.5 turns on the pilot unrestricted air cleaner cruse speed at 70-75mi an with good conditions 80 mi with out the carburator mods do not go over 60 mi mode air filter ( do not mode the filter without change the main jet ) http://s18.postimg.org/sneq60k8n/IMG_20 ... 110644.jpg check this post to viewtopic.php?f=7&t=6170 |
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