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#11 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: HoCo, Maryland
Posts: 1,349
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Aha, I think I figured it out.
You see, R1 is only rated 1/8 (=0.125) watt. And the current through R and R2 is about 12.6 V /(330+22) ohms = 0.0341 A. The wattage through R1 and R2 is then 0.0341 A x 12.6 V = 0.45W. Which is more than what R1 is rated for (0.125W), therefore R1 will run hot. And R1 will heat up the NTC much more when it is not submerged, and then the LED will go on. So, it is not the NTC that heats up by itself, but R1; and R1 heats up the NTC. I was kind of on the right track in my previous post, but I hadn't figured the function of R1 and R2 out. You see, once I used a thermistor to measure the temperature somewhere, with a 24V PLC; it didn't work and wondering why, I almost burned my fingers on it, because the current going through it was too much. duh. So that's why I thought the NTC would heat up by itself. Yes R4 is to keep the LED off, to have a low voltage across the LED until the NTC conducts more. And you can swap R3 and the (LED+R4), they are in series, R3 can also go between 12V and the (LED+R4). R3 is the current limiter for the LED. Lastly, I'm not afraid the tank would explode, because there is no oxygen in there, just gas vapors. Still, I wouldn't like a hot resistor in my tank... Login or Register to Remove Ads Last edited by 5th_bike; 02-26-2014 at 10:53 PM. Reason: typo |
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#12 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: College Station, Texas
Posts: 138
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Ah! Clever!
Haha, my last post was more explaining for me than for you (since it didn't even really touch what you were talking about), originally I was going to post questions, but I figured out the answers to them which is what all of that post turned into, me answering my own questions. And now you've answered my other question, as well as why R1 is shoved down there with the NTC. Cooool ![]() |
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#13 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 3
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I know this is a old thread, but for anyone interested I have a Jinlun Marauder JL250-4, chinese copy of the GZ250 but with a honda engine, this comes with a fuel gauge so anyone wanting a quick fix for a fuel gauge this could be the way to go
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#14 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Stafford, Texas
Posts: 604
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Quote:
Everyone needs to know that that uncovered 330 ohm resistor WILL smoke. And if you happen to open your tank when it does oxygen can find it. What I was typing up... I'm gonna guess no one has tried this circuit. R1 330 ohms 1/8 watt (in gas tank I presume) in series with R2 22 ohm 1/4 watt (out of gas tank I presume) Combined value is 352 ohms. Ohms law I=e/r e is volts. Running voltage would be 13 + R is 352 ohms So I, amps, is .037 p=i*e p=power equals i=current in amps times e=voltage p=.037 X 13 p = .48 watts dissipated on that portion of the circuit R1 is rated for .125 watts R2 is rated for .25 watts R2's lesser value will shift most of the vdrop on that portion of the circuit to R1 I would want that in my gas tank.... If I had a death wish. The other leg of that circuit could work if this NTC devise had the right characteristics. |
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#16 |
Senior Member
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#17 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Henderson, NV
Posts: 1,099
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5th_bike is still with us, I believe. But I haven't seen any posts from him lately so............
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