watch that neutral light

[Graydog]

Jenny, most bikes I have owned do the same thing. The GZ is no worse than the bike I just sold. Or the one before that, or before that. Seems to me all bikes are difficult to get into 1st sometimes as well as neutral. At least that is my experience.

[patrick_777]

In my experience, it's this way with manual shifting cars too. Anything with actual gears (sprockets) has the possibility of getting jammed up where the teeth don't line up just right for a smooth transition. It's not something to worry about unless it's getting progressively worse and worse, and creeping into other gear shifts as well. Just slip the clutch a little bit while keeping toe pressure on the shift lever and the tranny should slide right into gear.

If you're not already, get some good synthetic motor oil without life extenders, or cleaning additives, and change the oil. It could/should make a huge shifting difference.

[alanmcorcoran]

... a few things I've done that have helped reduce issues:

1) I count up and down (mostly down) to make sure I'm actually in first (not second.)
2) I have learned to detect the "Thunk" of first. If I didn't hear it, I ain't in it. There's a kind of bouncing ball bearing sound when it drops in... ting-a-ling-ding-ding.
3) With creative use of the clutch I can actually take off in second. Third too!
4) If you need to quickly get it in first, don't keep banging it with your foot. Press it in, ease out the clutch (a little!) and rock the bike a little with your other foot. It mostly works. Banging on the clutch pedal usually won't work and will bend the shifting rod, making matters that much worse.
5) I always "get set" before taking off. By that I mean, I typically engage the foot brake, disengage the hand brake, get ready to gently roll on the throttle and let the clutch out to just before the "friction point." With a little practice, you can detect the barest "grabbing" without actually moving. If you don't detect any grabbing, you might be in neutral (see above.) I make a little game out of making the smoothest take offs in the straightest possible line EVERY TIME. You will not see my head move when I advance through the gears if I'm doing it right. Some of this I carry over from driving a standard back in the seventies, but I believe good driving (and riding) is based on a solid foundation of consistent routines. If you drill a reliable sequence into your brain and muscles, when you have to do it without thinking, you will. (Did I mention I play the piano - same thing works there.)

Hope this helps without sounding too preachy...

[Easy Rider]

Originally Posted by Jenny

I'll ask him if he can also take a look and see why it won't shift sometimes.

Yes, under the circumstances, I think you should do that.
Do NOT be surprised, though, if he says much the same thing we have been saying..........without even looking at it.
Every new rider in the world has trouble with that............and most seasoned riders too......if they are honest.
It will get better with practice but it will NEVER go away completely. Sorry.

[Jenny]

Originally Posted by Easy Rider

Yes, under the circumstances, I think you should do that.
Do NOT be surprised, though, if he says much the same thing we have been saying..........without even looking at it.
Every new rider in the world has trouble with that............and most seasoned riders too......if they are honest.
It will get better with practice but it will NEVER go away completely. Sorry.

*shrugs* It hasn't been a super big deal. I know that sometimes it doesn't move smoothly down into first or gets stuck in neutral, and the only time it was an issue was my first time on the big roads at that stop light. Now I am extra careful to watch it at stop lights.

I do need to change the oil, though. I'll do that over the three-day holiday weekend.

[Easy Rider]

Originally Posted by Jenny

I do need to change the oil, though. I'll do that over the three-day holiday weekend.

A little tip for that, based on personal stupidity:
When you get parts for the change, get both O-rings AND the brass washer for the drain plug.
If the O-rings stay in place on the bike, they only need to be changed every other filter change or so but you should have a set just incase you need them.

Somehow when I did my first change (on a used bike) I failed to notice that my washer was missing. This time I noticed but didn't have a new one on hand. RATS. Now I have a tiny leak......about 5 drops a week and probably need to get that corrected soon.

[patrick_777]

Originally Posted by Easy Rider

Now I have a tiny leak......about 5 drops a week and probably need to get that corrected soon.

That's natural, it's just marking its territory...unless it's leaving its nuts exposed and laying around all the time, then the problem could be behavioral.

[Easy Rider]

Originally Posted by patrick_777

...unless it's leaving its nuts exposed and laying around all the time, then the problem could be behavioral.

Hey, I resemble that remark !!! :blush: :lol:

[clonak]

Hi

I havent had any problems with the GZ getting into neutrel, just the light not coming on and cutting out when I put the kick stand down. My old A100, that had problems with neutrel. Only time I could get that into neutrel was when going around a round about, or taking off at lights/stop sign. Would never go in while sitting, roll it forward, pull the clutch out, nothing would work. It was still a sad day when it got stolen off my front lawn

[Water Warrior 2]

Originally Posted by clonak

Hi

cutting out when I put the kick stand down.

If you are referring to the engine cutting out you still have it in gear when you lower the side stand. Put the tranny in neutral and it will stay running. It is the side stand safety switch doing it's job. You can't ride away with the stand in the down position.