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#161 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Squamish B.C Canada
Posts: 11,409
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That is the perfect tool for tight bike hardware. Cheap and built to last a lifetime. Mine is over 35 years old and still looks new. Haven't needed it often but sure glad to have it in the tool box.
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#162 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: College Station, Texas
Posts: 138
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I'm pretty sure I just cracked the replacement cover too.
This time I played it (what I thought was) really safe. I first tightened down the two bolts with bushings, not super tight, but to the point where there was some resistance and the cover was touching the bike at those points. Then I finger tightened the rest of the bolts and took out an in-lb torque wrench. I started at 25 in-lb (2.82 Nm) and tightened all the bolts to that. There are 8 bolts so I'd start at the top, then move 3 over, tighten that, move 3 over, etc, 'til I returned to top, if top was no longer tightened to 25 in-lb, then I'd do them all again in the same pattern. If it was still at 25 in-lb, then I upped it to 30 in-lb repeated tightening procedure, up to 40 in-lb, repeated, then up by 10 in lb at a time all the way up to 120 in-lb at which point it cracked. Same place as before. Booooooooo So yeah, apparently the limit for the magneto cover is just under 10 ft lb (13.56 Nm) Last edited by ImaginativeFig; 04-04-2014 at 10:32 AM. |
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#164 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Tenerife (Spain)
Posts: 3,719
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You must be a mind reader
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__________________
By birth an Englishman, by the grace of God a Yorkshireman. |
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#166 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Squamish B.C Canada
Posts: 11,409
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Be careful with the squeak theory. That may work with cast iron but aluminum is close to stripping out the threads with a squeak. Put blue Loktite on the threads of the bolt and run them in snug.
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#167 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: lexington ky
Posts: 223
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Yeah I learned that the hard way working on a Lifan dirt bike. The stator plates are awful to pound in too
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#168 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: College Station, Texas
Posts: 138
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Ah, wow, so I was way overtightening (which I suppose was obvious anyway)
I think I really need a printed version of the manual, I keep missing things searching through the digital one. In the engine reassembly instructions I believe it says something asinine like "tighten the cover bolts securely" which is pretty damned objective. Woulda been nice if they just constantly threw in reference to that table. |
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#169 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Elkhart, Indiana
Posts: 369
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on page 7-24 is the torque specific for the chassis
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#170 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: College Station, Texas
Posts: 138
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Tried putting on the 2nd replacement cover today, measured the bolt diameters at 7/32nd with a crappy caliper, which is 5.5 mm, so I rounded down for safety and liklihood to 5mm, which the table on 7-25 says should be torqued to 2 lb ft, onlything is that at 2 lbft, the cover isn't even pulled flush with the body of the bike, so I turned it to 3 lbft. Still gap. 4 lbft. POP! No visible crack, but it's probably there somewhere. We can still get a piece of paper in between the parts on the troublesome left side.
I'm not really sure what to do at this point. Assuming the crankcase must be warped somehow. Or I'm somehow doing something very stupid. |
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Tags |
electrical, oil, problems, troubleshooting, won't start |
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