Rejected inspection: front turn signals

[bwader]

I got that cable harness coming in tomorrow so I'll replace that and go from there. But actually I'll try to get a buy a diode and solder it like the directions say with a ground wire. That way I don't waste time and effort taking out my wiring harness just to put in the "new" one. When the diode kit should work.

My woman is telling me to take it to a mechanic because I'm spending so much time on it. I'd rather try DIY and spend a lot less money.

My experience with things like this is, I'd take it there and leave it for them to look at it, then they will tell me I need to buy some high priced parts then the cost of labor to fix it. Then find out they did something very simple and are charging me a lot anyway.

This is mainly car mechanics at some shops, I can't really say for motorcycle mechanics.

[bwader]

Instructions to that Diode kit.

http://www.jpcycles.com/instructions/pdf/ZZ38200.pdf

A diode would be like a check valve in a pipe, allows flow in only one direction. Though a mechanical check valve is known to have a little back flow until fully seated shut.

So as I understand it, with a diode and a ground at the turn signal indicator bulb connection it will allow flow only to the turn signal selected and still light up the indicator bulb. Without that annoying problem I have.

[alantf]

If you look at my drawing of the circuit, you'll see that with the switch in one position, power flows throught the warning light, left to right. With the switch in the other position, power flows right to left. So where do you put the diode? :??: There's no ground terminal at the warning light.

[mole2]

Originally Posted by alantf

If you look at my drawing of the circuit, you'll see that with the switch in one position, power flows throught the warning light, left to right. With the switch in the other position, power flows right to left. So where do you put the diode? :??: There's no ground terminal at the warning light.

Correct. With the kit you are putting a diode on each feed and creating a "Y" connection. This will feed the positive 12v to one side of the light socket and not backfeed on the opposite circuit. You then add a ground to the opposite side of the socket and the bulb socket acts like a plain old bulb socket.

[alantf]

So long as you get the current flow (value) correct, so that the flasher unit functions correctly, and also shows up any fault in the circuit (as it's designed to do)

[mole2]

Originally Posted by alantf

So long as you get the current flow (value) correct, so that the flasher unit functions correctly, and also shows up any fault in the circuit (as it's designed to do)

I know what you're saying. But when he takes the bulb out both circuits (left and right) work correctly. One of the four bulbs could be wrong or internally damaged. Since they work correctly he can use the diode kit to isolate one side from the other and still have his indicator. It is also reversable.

[5th_bike]

Originally Posted by bwader

Instructions to that Diode kit.

http://www.jpcycles.com/instructions/pdf/ZZ38200.pdf

A diode would be like a check valve in a pipe, allows flow in only one direction. Though a mechanical check valve is known to have a little back flow until fully seated shut.

So as I understand it, with a diode and a ground at the turn signal indicator bulb connection it will allow flow only to the turn signal selected and still light up the indicator bulb. Without that annoying problem I have.

Exactly. Actually the kit has two diodes, one at each red wire, one for the left side and one for the right side. That should do the trick !! Hope it works.

One word of caution - the diode kit instuctions specifically say that they are for LED indicator bulbs, which are a lower wattage than the regular indicator bulb.
The diodes may not be rated for the 3.4W indicator bulb. If they should burn on you (the bulb will give a little or no flash, and then appear dead) go to Radio Shack and buy two of their diodes.

[bwader]

I went to radio shack yesterday and got 2 12volt diodes zener type. I messaged a friend and he said he said that's the kind I don't want to use. Zener type "leak" by is what I got out of it.

So I'm going back there and getting a different type. That was the only 12volt type they had. But there is one for higher voltage I'll try it. A lot of the diodes in the drawers couldn't handle 3.4watts.
So I'm going to get the higher voltage rated one. I don't have too much choice unless I drive more miles to get to a different one.

[bwader]

I found out also my GE2425 multimeter reads 0.3 ohms when I test the testers together. So I just subtract 0.3 from readings now.

I watched that video where the guy uses 2 LEDs and a 1 Kilo ohm resistor and the broken bulb in the socket.

I'm going to radioshack and getting some diodes and trying different ones if need be. I'm using the same 3.4watt bulb so its just putting in the 2 diodes in the one side of the wire and 2 wires to the harness.

Question? Which wire to which part of the harness?

Yesterday I had the new ground wire to a splice to the ground wire in the headlight. Then I had one diode wire to the left side turn signal wires and the other to the right side.

I'm not sure of which wire it should be one of the two wires on the turn signals or what.

Directions just say "2 red wires to the wiring harness" very vague. I don't want to get it wrong.

[alantf]

[attachment=0:1gkg46dd]3.jpg[/attachment:1gkg46dd]

These are the diodes that I use for 12v work. The code on them is IN4007 DC. They look big in the picture, but they're actually about 5 millimetres long.