07-05-2023, 02:37 PM | #1 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Chilliwack BC Canada
Posts: 3
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Bike wont start, New cylinder
I have an old 2008 GZ that had a bad piston and head, smoked awfully.
Changed out the piston and cylinder with a rebuild kit, all new rings, pistons and cylinder. Problem is I cannot get it to start. I checked the valve clearance, has spark, carb was cleaned 3 times, just will not start up. Camshaft timing should be good and lined up. Anyone able to help me figure out what's wrong? Login or Register to Remove Ads Last edited by SEGACDX; 07-05-2023 at 02:43 PM. |
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09-20-2023, 07:02 PM | #2 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2020
Posts: 7
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did it all come as a kit, or some of the parts are different? did you check the way of the piston...how it should be mounted (front/back)?
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05-18-2024, 10:14 PM | #3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Franklin VA
Posts: 174
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It's been some months since last reply.
Have you tried spraying starter fluid into the air box? That should be a quick and easy thing to try. Fuel line could be clogged, remove the fuel line before the carb, see if fuel comes out. Or could be fuel petcock not allowing fuel through. Remove the sparkplug and screw in a compression tester. With fully charged battery crank it and open throttle fully get some compression readings.
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2005 GZ 250 10,200 miles Login or Register to Remove Ads |
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05-24-2024, 02:53 PM | #4 |
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Join Date: Apr 2024
Posts: 12
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If you tried the compression test and that shows as good I would (as suggested) and check your petcock for fuel flow.
Did you remember to hook the vacuum line to the back of the petcock? Did you switch the petcock to the primary position to fill the carb up? I know this may seem stupid for me to ask, but it is easy to forget some of the simple things. I have been there! |
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05-31-2024, 10:03 AM | #5 |
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Join Date: May 2024
Location: Peterborough, ON
Posts: 3
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I know this all should be good from before the rebuild, but if you run out of ideas, I'd say test the stator (disconnect the plug from the stator, and check for resistance between each set of two of the three yellow wires, should be the same reading on each pair, and then check resistance from each yellow wire to ground, should be infinite resistance, if it shorts to ground that's bad). I think also the voltage regulator is a common fail point, but usually it will still run for a bit, but the voltage slowly climbs until it hits like 18 volts and then the ECU stops operating and the bike dies.
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