Need a little help, please.

68rs437 · 07-23-2015, 04:10 PM

I'm looking at a 2002 Suzuki GZ 250 this weekend.
I Have seen several photos of the bike, looks good in photos, the guy says it's in excellent condition.
The bike has 17,000 miles on it.
What do I need to look at before purchasing the GZ250?
Do the GZ250's have common problems?
Is 17,000 a lot of miles on a 250cc bike?
Any tips or help with what to look for would be appreciated.
Thanks,

spldart · 07-23-2015, 07:15 PM

You need a mechanic to evaluate it.
Compression test and test drive will give you the most information beyond that.
My 2000 gz250 had 16k or so on it. Past 18k now...
Owner provided excellent documentation as to upkeep but when I got it home and did a
compression test I found the motor has a lot of wear. Right at 100 psi.
Fortunate for me since it wasn't running I got mine for 800 bux and had it running with some
elbow grease.
If you are not bike savvy you need a mechanic or knowledgeable biker friend to check it out.

68rs437 · 07-23-2015, 09:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by spldart

You need a mechanic to evaluate it.
Compression test and test drive will give you the most information beyond that.
My 2000 gz250 had 16k or so on it. Past 18k now...
Owner provided excellent documentation as to upkeep but when I got it home and did a
compression test I found the motor has a lot of wear. Right at 100 psi.
Fortunate for me since it wasn't running I got mine for 800 bux and had it running with some
elbow grease.
If you are not bike savvy you need a mechanic or knowledgeable biker friend to check it out.

I have a compression tester. What would a good compression be?
On a 2 cylinder or 4 cylinder, usually even across the board is good news.
But this bike being a single cylinder, I would need to know a good range it should be in.
Thanks,

spldart · 07-23-2015, 10:24 PM

I'd like to see 115 to 125 or higher.
Stating that... I'm commuting 45 miles a day on around 100 at the moment and I'm not
burning oil or anything.
But anywho... Every healthy motor I've ever had was 115 to 125 or higher.
My fresh built motors top 135 on up no problem.
But I haven't built in years. This is to the best of my memory.

konradphoto · 12-16-2015, 01:05 PM

I would also check the forks' seals if they are worn out or dirty. Press the fork a few times and see with your hand if there is any oil residue on the forks

suzukix668 · 12-19-2015, 10:06 PM

if the price is right check for rust or dry chain see if the ex pipes are discolor if so than the motor is running lean not good. that can be fixed I have all the info for the gz250 mine is a gz250 2000 with over 93k on her & runs new.
the compression should be about 150 to 180 thats what mine is check the color of the oil is if black than it is poorly taken care of I have good used parts just ask thank you

Water Warrior 2 · 12-20-2015, 10:18 PM

Black oil does not always indicate lack of maintenance. Fresh oil can turn black in a few hundred miles. Carbed engines such as the GZ are of an older design that can and will do that. Newer FI engines not so much.

When oil changes color it is an indication that the oil is doing it's job and floating unwanted deposits to the filter. The color change is not written in stone but a pretty good rule of thumb. If in doubt, change the oil. As always, we all like that fresh oil color in the sight glass.
You may have a situation where the oil is clean looking but the tranny is getting harder to shift. This may indicate the oil is loosing it's properties and needs to be changed after all other factors are figured into the equation.
Oil is cheap and the life line of any engine. We had Shell Rotella 15-40 in my Vstrom 650 and Lynda's Suzuki M-50. Both changed color very quickly but maintained shifting smoothness for the full distance between changes with very little need of a top up. Rotella is used by many bike riders. It is certified for wet clutches.
Oddly enough my experience with the Vstrom and Amsoil 10-40 MC oil was not as pleasant as Rotella. Louder shifting noises, more frequent top ups and the initial cost were my reasons for changing to Rotella.
As a side note, my Ranger 4.0 v6 was okay with Rotella 15-40 but it really likes Rotella 5-40 Synthetic. I doubt I would use it in a bike though. I don't think it is needed.

blaine · 12-21-2015, 07:20 AM

I had the same experience with Amsoil in my high reving 454.( 10000 R.P.M.)I shifted back to Rotella-T pretty quick!!

07-23-2015, 04:10 PM	#1
68rs437 Junior Member Join Date: Jul 2015 Posts: 4	Need a little help, please. I'm looking at a 2002 Suzuki GZ 250 this weekend. I Have seen several photos of the bike, looks good in photos, the guy says it's in excellent condition. The bike has 17,000 miles on it. What do I need to look at before purchasing the GZ250? Do the GZ250's have common problems? Is 17,000 a lot of miles on a 250cc bike? Any tips or help with what to look for would be appreciated. Thanks, Login or Register to Remove Ads
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07-23-2015, 10:24 PM	#4
spldart Senior Member Join Date: May 2015 Location: Stafford, Texas Posts: 604	I'd like to see 115 to 125 or higher. Stating that... I'm commuting 45 miles a day on around 100 at the moment and I'm not burning oil or anything. But anywho... Every healthy motor I've ever had was 115 to 125 or higher. My fresh built motors top 135 on up no problem. But I haven't built in years. This is to the best of my memory. Last edited by spldart; 07-23-2015 at 10:26 PM.
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12-16-2015, 01:05 PM	#5
konradphoto Junior Member Join Date: Dec 2015 Location: Memphis, TN Posts: 5	I would also check the forks' seals if they are worn out or dirty. Press the fork a few times and see with your hand if there is any oil residue on the forks Login or Register to Remove Ads
	0

12-21-2015, 07:20 AM	#8
blaine Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: P.E.I. Canada Posts: 3,784	I had the same experience with Amsoil in my high reving 454.( 10000 R.P.M.)I shifted back to Rotella-T pretty quick!! __________________ If at first you do succeed, try not to look surprised.
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07-23-2015, 07:15 PM	#2
spldart Senior Member Join Date: May 2015 Location: Stafford, Texas Posts: 604	You need a mechanic to evaluate it. Compression test and test drive will give you the most information beyond that. My 2000 gz250 had 16k or so on it. Past 18k now... Owner provided excellent documentation as to upkeep but when I got it home and did a compression test I found the motor has a lot of wear. Right at 100 psi. Fortunate for me since it wasn't running I got mine for 800 bux and had it running with some elbow grease. If you are not bike savvy you need a mechanic or knowledgeable biker friend to check it out.
	0

12-19-2015, 10:06 PM	#6
suzukix668 Junior Member Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: la ca Posts: 23	if the price is right check for rust or dry chain see if the ex pipes are discolor if so than the motor is running lean not good. that can be fixed I have all the info for the gz250 mine is a gz250 2000 with over 93k on her & runs new. the compression should be about 150 to 180 thats what mine is check the color of the oil is if black than it is poorly taken care of I have good used parts just ask thank you
	0

12-20-2015, 10:18 PM	#7
Water Warrior 2 Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Squamish B.C Canada Posts: 11,409	Black oil does not always indicate lack of maintenance. Fresh oil can turn black in a few hundred miles. Carbed engines such as the GZ are of an older design that can and will do that. Newer FI engines not so much. When oil changes color it is an indication that the oil is doing it's job and floating unwanted deposits to the filter. The color change is not written in stone but a pretty good rule of thumb. If in doubt, change the oil. As always, we all like that fresh oil color in the sight glass. You may have a situation where the oil is clean looking but the tranny is getting harder to shift. This may indicate the oil is loosing it's properties and needs to be changed after all other factors are figured into the equation. Oil is cheap and the life line of any engine. We had Shell Rotella 15-40 in my Vstrom 650 and Lynda's Suzuki M-50. Both changed color very quickly but maintained shifting smoothness for the full distance between changes with very little need of a top up. Rotella is used by many bike riders. It is certified for wet clutches. Oddly enough my experience with the Vstrom and Amsoil 10-40 MC oil was not as pleasant as Rotella. Louder shifting noises, more frequent top ups and the initial cost were my reasons for changing to Rotella. As a side note, my Ranger 4.0 v6 was okay with Rotella 15-40 but it really likes Rotella 5-40 Synthetic. I doubt I would use it in a bike though. I don't think it is needed.
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