How-to : Valve Adjustment

**jonathan180iq** · 10-04-2011, 01:17 PM

The following "How-to" as been adapted for this forum from: http://i2kdave.wordpress.com/2009/07/23 ... djustment/
All credit should be given to the original poster, i2kDave and board member Brucea for finding it.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~

Here are the tools you will need:
6mm allen wrench
flat wrench, or other similar tool
3? extension (optional)
ratchet
set of feeler gauges
8mm wrench
22mm socket
17mm socket
10mm socket
valve adjuster tool (09917-14920)
spark plug wrench

First, remove the two 10mm bolts holding the back of the gas tank.

Make sure the fuel valve is in either the “ON” or “RES” position, and disconnect the fuel hose and vacuum hose. Now you can lift the gas tank off and sit it aside.

Remove the left cylinder head cover cap with the 6mm allen wrench.

Disconnect the spark plug and remove it with the spark plug wrench.

Remove the four 10mm bolts indicated by the arrows to remove the valve inspection caps.

Next, you need to get the piston in the correct position before checking the valves. Remove the valve timing inspection plug with the 17mm socket, and the generator cover cap.

I had to loosen the cap with some WD-40 and removed it with a flat wrench I had in my toolbox.

Using the 22mm socket, turn the crankshaft until the “T” mark aligns with the arrow on the generator cover, and the piston is on the compression stroke. You can tell when it’s there by plugging the spark plug hole with your finger and rotating the crankshaft until you feel pressure on your finger.

Once all that is done, you can start checking the valve clearances. You’ll be checking the space between the valve stem and the adjusting screw, indicated by the arrow. Be aware, the intake and exhaust valves have different specs. Just to clarify, the intake is toward the rear of the bike, and the exhaust is toward the front.

If any need adjusting, loosen the locknut with the 8mm wrench and turn the adjusting screw with the valve adjuster tool until it has the proper clearance. Try not to let the screw turn while you’re tightening down the locknut, or you’ll have to adjust it again. Trust me, I speak from experience.

The exhaust side isn’t that difficult to work with, but the intake is in a very tight location. I moved some of the wires and cables out of the way and still had a hard time getting my fingers in there. Do yourself a favor and buy some angled feeler gauges. Mine are flat, and that made it even more difficult, not to mention that they got all bent up in the process.

Once you get them all adjusted to spec and the locknuts tightened down, rotate the crankshaft 720° and check the clearances again. If everything is good to go, just put everything back together and you’re done!

Rookie Rider · 11-25-2012, 01:38 PM

Nice, i think i will tackle this soon being i dont know if its ever been done from the previous owner.

**jonathan180iq** · 11-27-2012, 04:29 PM

This pretty much covered everything you need to know. It's a simple process, once you find TDC.

chandlerbingfl · 12-04-2012, 02:07 PM

I'm in the process of trying to adjust the valves unfortunately getting that cover off on the lower left of the housing is proving to be a real pain... My question is this: where in the pictures are you using this valve adjuster tool (09917-14920) tool?

Is this the same thing someone made with a cork a screw??? How is it used?

chandlerbingfl

PG tips · 12-04-2012, 05:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chandlerbingfl

I'm in the process of trying to adjust the valves unfortunately getting that cover off on the lower left of the housing is proving to be a real pain... My question is this: where in the pictures are you using this valve adjuster tool (09917-14920) tool?

Is this the same thing someone made with a cork a screw??? How is it used?

chandlerbingfl

My question is, what is the adjuster tool? ie its shape
I assume thats a long reach socket or a long socket for a [strike:35my34yo]hex nut[/strike:35my34yo] (I looked again, it looks like a square end (internally shaped square on the tool) on a short screwdriver handle). Presumably a short handle to allow the job to be done with the tank in place?
If the tool isn't that maybe someone could provide some illumination or better still a close up picture of the valve adjuster tool?

edit (when I looked again) to "chandlerbingfl" in the last picture provided, when you do the measurement with the gauges, the tool looks like it goes over the square piece sticking out above the locking nut. So if the measurement is out of spec, I'd imagine with the ring spanner (8mm) in place holding the adjuster tool in place, loosen the locknut, measure with the feeler gauges, then adjust the square end with the tool if necessary, and then tighten the locknut again (and then measure again to confirm

).

If i'm wrong feel free to correct me.

I'm not sure where I can get one locally?, or what size is it square? (instead of me having to open it all up to check) I'll look online and check the part number and see if there is a place local that does them and if they are readily available online.
While I'm sure something could be bodged to work, I prefer not bodging stuff, right tool for the right job and all that.

And so I dont seem lazy, a quick google throws up a few answers, here included.
viewtopic.php?f=10&t=5959

chandlerbingfl · 12-04-2012, 07:28 PM

Thanks for the reply.... I clicked on the link you provided and my question is what is the screw in the cork for? The pictures in this thread do not show any special tools required other than valve adjuster tool (09917-14920) which is what I am assuming the screw in the cork is for. Unfortunately the pics in this thread do not show it being used.

I also found this page http://i2kdave.wordpress.com/2009/07/23 ... djustment/ which shows a real valve adjuster tool but it isn't used in the pictures as well.....

I did finally get the Generator cover off.....my only concern is this valve adjuster tool......that I don't know what its for and the pictures of how to adjust the valves do not show...

Thanks again,
chandlerbingfl

Water Warrior 2 · 12-04-2012, 07:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chandlerbingfl

Thanks for the reply.... I clicked on the link you provided and my question is what is the screw in the cork for? The pictures in this thread do not show any special tools required other than valve adjuster tool (09917-14920) which is what I am assuming the screw in the cork is for. Unfortunately the pics in this thread do not show it being used.

I also found this page http://i2kdave.wordpress.com/2009/07/23 ... djustment/ which shows a real valve adjuster tool but it isn't used in the pictures as well.....

I did finally get the Generator cover off.....my only concern is this valve adjuster tool......that I don't know what its for and the pictures of how to adjust the valves do not show...

Thanks again,
chandlerbingfl

The last pic shows the end of the rocker arm. There is a lock nut with a small square just above it. Loosen the lock nut to allow the small square to rotate. It is the adjuster for the valve clearance. It is a threaded item that goes through the end of the rocker arm and makes contact with the top of the valve stem. The arrow points to the point where you make the measurement with the feeler gauge.
The cork and screw is just a Robertson head screw screwed into a cork(for grip). The head of the screw will fit the square adjuster so it can be turned. I think it will need to be a head to fit a # 2 Robertson screw driver. Some one will correct me if I am wrong.

blaine · 12-04-2012, 08:40 PM

A shrader valve cap works well & you can use a short valve stem on the end of it.
I have the proper factory adjuster & it's to long to use on the intake valves without moving wiring out of the way.I ended up using the shrader valve,it works much better.

PG tips · 12-04-2012, 08:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blaine

A shrader valve cap works well & you can use a short valve stem on the end of it.
I have the proper factory adjuster & it's to long to use on the intake valves without moving wiring out of the way.I ended up using the shrader valve,it works much better.

I wouldn't have thought of that, I'd have guessed it was too small, but in my defence, I dont know the dimension of the square nut either, I haven't seen it, but I probably should have.
I'm suprised that has the strength (stainless or not?) to not break off one of those side bits, what do you hold the cap with? a valve stem? a cranked one?
I wouldn't want that or anything off it falling in there.

blaine · 12-04-2012, 09:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PG tips

I wouldn't have thought of that, I'd have guessed it was too small, but in my defence, I dont know the dimension of the square nut either, I haven't seen it, but I probably should have.
I'm suprised that has the strength (stainless or not?) to not break off one of those side bits, what do you hold the cap with? a valve stem? a cranked one?
I wouldn't want that or anything off it falling in there.

A short valve stem works well.The adjuster turns very easy,once the nut is loosened.Hardly any effort is needed at all.

:2tup:

10-04-2011, 01:17 PM	#1
jonathan180iq Super Moderator Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Dalton, GA Posts: 3,996	How-to : Valve Adjustment The following "How-to" as been adapted for this forum from: http://i2kdave.wordpress.com/2009/07/23 ... djustment/ All credit should be given to the original poster, i2kDave and board member Brucea for finding it. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~ Here are the tools you will need: 6mm allen wrench flat wrench, or other similar tool 3? extension (optional) ratchet set of feeler gauges 8mm wrench 22mm socket 17mm socket 10mm socket valve adjuster tool (09917-14920) spark plug wrench First, remove the two 10mm bolts holding the back of the gas tank. Make sure the fuel valve is in either the “ON” or “RES” position, and disconnect the fuel hose and vacuum hose. Now you can lift the gas tank off and sit it aside. Remove the left cylinder head cover cap with the 6mm allen wrench. Disconnect the spark plug and remove it with the spark plug wrench. Remove the four 10mm bolts indicated by the arrows to remove the valve inspection caps. Next, you need to get the piston in the correct position before checking the valves. Remove the valve timing inspection plug with the 17mm socket, and the generator cover cap. I had to loosen the cap with some WD-40 and removed it with a flat wrench I had in my toolbox. Using the 22mm socket, turn the crankshaft until the “T” mark aligns with the arrow on the generator cover, and the piston is on the compression stroke. You can tell when it’s there by plugging the spark plug hole with your finger and rotating the crankshaft until you feel pressure on your finger. Once all that is done, you can start checking the valve clearances. You’ll be checking the space between the valve stem and the adjusting screw, indicated by the arrow. Be aware, the intake and exhaust valves have different specs. Just to clarify, the intake is toward the rear of the bike, and the exhaust is toward the front. If any need adjusting, loosen the locknut with the 8mm wrench and turn the adjusting screw with the valve adjuster tool until it has the proper clearance. Try not to let the screw turn while you’re tightening down the locknut, or you’ll have to adjust it again. Trust me, I speak from experience. The exhaust side isn’t that difficult to work with, but the intake is in a very tight location. I moved some of the wires and cables out of the way and still had a hard time getting my fingers in there. Do yourself a favor and buy some angled feeler gauges. Mine are flat, and that made it even more difficult, not to mention that they got all bent up in the process. Once you get them all adjusted to spec and the locknuts tightened down, rotate the crankshaft 720° and check the clearances again. If everything is good to go, just put everything back together and you’re done! Login or Register to Remove Ads
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11-25-2012, 01:38 PM	#2
Rookie Rider Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Queens, NYC Posts: 1,263	Re: How-to : Valve Adjustment Nice, i think i will tackle this soon being i dont know if its ever been done from the previous owner.
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11-27-2012, 04:29 PM	#3
jonathan180iq Super Moderator Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Dalton, GA Posts: 3,996	Re: How-to : Valve Adjustment This pretty much covered everything you need to know. It's a simple process, once you find TDC. Login or Register to Remove Ads
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12-04-2012, 02:07 PM	#4
chandlerbingfl Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Florida Posts: 142	Re: How-to : Valve Adjustment I'm in the process of trying to adjust the valves unfortunately getting that cover off on the lower left of the housing is proving to be a real pain... My question is this: where in the pictures are you using this valve adjuster tool (09917-14920) tool? Is this the same thing someone made with a cork a screw??? How is it used? chandlerbingfl
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12-04-2012, 07:28 PM	#6
chandlerbingfl Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Florida Posts: 142	Re: How-to : Valve Adjustment Thanks for the reply.... I clicked on the link you provided and my question is what is the screw in the cork for? The pictures in this thread do not show any special tools required other than valve adjuster tool (09917-14920) which is what I am assuming the screw in the cork is for. Unfortunately the pics in this thread do not show it being used. I also found this page http://i2kdave.wordpress.com/2009/07/23 ... djustment/ which shows a real valve adjuster tool but it isn't used in the pictures as well..... I did finally get the Generator cover off.....my only concern is this valve adjuster tool......that I don't know what its for and the pictures of how to adjust the valves do not show... Thanks again, chandlerbingfl
	0

12-04-2012, 08:40 PM	#8
blaine Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: P.E.I. Canada Posts: 3,784	Re: How-to : Valve Adjustment A shrader valve cap works well & you can use a short valve stem on the end of it. I have the proper factory adjuster & it's to long to use on the intake valves without moving wiring out of the way.I ended up using the shrader valve,it works much better. __________________ If at first you do succeed, try not to look surprised.
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